The three ways to join yarn mid-project

You can connect yarn in knitting using three main methods: the weave-in method (threading ends through stitches after you finish), the Russian join (threading yarn through itself before you knit), and the spit splice (felting two yarn ends together by wetting and rubbing them). Each works best for different yarn types and projects. The weave-in method is the most common and works with any yarn. The Russian join is invisible and happens before you start knitting. The spit splice works only with animal fibers like wool and creates the strongest join.

Your choice depends on what yarn you are using, whether you want the join hidden inside the fabric or woven into it, and how much time you have. If you are working with acrylic or synthetic yarn, the spit splice will not work. If you are joining in the middle of a row, the Russian join is your fastest option. If you have finished a section and are starting a new ball, any of the three will work.

Key Takeaways

  • The weave-in method works with all yarn types and hides the join by threading yarn ends through nearby stitches after you finish knitting.
  • The Russian join threads one yarn end through the other before you start knitting, making the join invisible and permanent from the start.
  • The spit splice works only with animal fibers like wool and creates a felted join by wetting and rubbing the two yarn ends together.
  • Each method takes between two and ten minutes, and you can use all three on the same project if different sections call for different yarn types.

The weave-in method: hiding yarn ends in finished stitches

The weave-in method is the safest choice for any yarn type because it does not depend on the yarn's fiber content. You knit until you run out of yarn, cut the old yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, tie on the new yarn with a straightforward knot, and then weave both tails through the backs of nearby stitches using a tapestry needle. The join itself is not part of the fabric—it sits behind the stitches and holds them in place.

To weave in an end, thread a tapestry needle with the yarn tail. Starting a few stitches away from the knot, push the needle through the back loop of one stitch, then through the back loop of the next stitch, moving along the row for about 2 inches. Pull gently so the yarn sits snug but does not pucker the fabric. Reverse direction and weave back through the same stitches, then trim the tail close to the fabric. The doubled path keeps the end from working loose.

This method works mid-row or at the end of a row. If you are joining in the middle of a row, tie the knot loosely at first, finish the row, and then weave in both ends. The knot itself will be hidden inside the fabric once you weave the tails in. For a neater look, you can also tie the new yarn on at the start of a new row instead of mid-row, though this means you have to finish the current row with the old yarn first.

The Russian join: connecting yarn before you knit

The Russian join threads one yarn end through the other, creating a join that is already locked in place before you knit a single stitch. This method is invisible from both sides of the fabric and works best when you are starting a new ball at the beginning of a row or round. It takes about two minutes and requires only a tapestry needle.

To make a Russian join, thread a tapestry needle with the new yarn. Lay the old yarn tail on your work surface and push the needle through the old yarn about 1 inch from its end, going lengthwise through the yarn (not piercing it, but sliding through the fibers). Pull the new yarn through so you have a loop of new yarn around the old yarn tail. Now thread the tapestry needle with the old yarn tail and push it through the loop of new yarn the same way. Pull tight. The two yarns are now locked together, and you can knit with the new yarn when ready. Trim both tails short.

The Russian join works best with yarn that has some texture or twist, because smooth yarn can slip. It does not work well with very thin yarn or yarn that is already splitting. Test it on a scrap first if you are unsure. Once you pull the join tight, it will not come undone, even if you tug hard on both ends.

The spit splice: felting two yarn ends together

The spit splice works only with animal fibers—wool, alpaca, mohair, and similar yarns that felt when wet and rubbed. It creates the strongest join of all three methods because the fibers actually bond together. Acrylic, cotton, and synthetic yarns cannot be spit-spliced because they do not felt. This method takes about five minutes and requires only water and your hands.

To spit splice, overlap the two yarn ends by about 2 inches. Wet both ends with water (or saliva, hence the name). Rub the overlapped section between your palms or against your thigh, using firm pressure and a back-and-forth motion, for about one minute. The friction and moisture cause the fibers to felt together. Keep rubbing until the two ends feel like a single strand and do not separate when you pull. Trim any loose fibers. The join is now permanent and will not come undone even in the washing machine.

The spit splice is invisible once it dries and creates no bump in the fabric. It works mid-row or at any point in your knitting. The only downside is that it takes longer than the other methods and only works with specific yarn types. If you are unsure whether your yarn will felt, test it on a scrap first.

Choosing the right method for your yarn type

Wool and other animal fibers give you all three options. Use the spit splice if you want the strongest, most invisible join and have five minutes. Use the Russian join if you are starting a new ball at the beginning of a row. Use the weave-in method if you are joining mid-row and want to avoid any risk.

Cotton and plant-based yarns work with the weave-in method and the Russian join, but not the spit splice. Cotton does not felt, so rubbing wet ends together will not bond them. The Russian join is your fastest option for cotton. The weave-in method is your safest option if you are unsure about the Russian join.

Acrylic and synthetic yarns work only with the weave-in method. Neither the Russian join nor the spit splice will hold reliably in acrylic because the fibers do not lock or felt. Weave in your ends carefully, using at least 2 inches of overlap, and consider weaving in a second time if you are worried about the join coming loose.

Avoiding weak spots when you join yarn

The most common mistake is not weaving in enough yarn. A 1-inch tail is not enough—use at least 2 inches, and 3 inches is better. The longer the overlap, the more stitches hold the yarn in place, and the less likely it is to slip out. For acrylic yarn especially, err on the side of too much rather than too little.

Another mistake is pulling too hard when you weave in. If you yank the yarn tight, you will pucker the fabric and create a visible dent. Pull just enough so the yarn sits snug against the stitches. The fabric should lie flat. If you see puckering, you pulled too hard.

For the Russian join, make sure you are threading through the yarn itself, not just wrapping around it. Push the needle lengthwise through the yarn fibers so they grip the other yarn. If you just loop the yarn around, it will slip. Test the join by pulling hard on both ends before you start knitting.

For the spit splice, keep rubbing until the join feels solid. If you stop too early, the fibers will not have felted enough and the join will separate when you wash the finished piece. Wet the area again and rub more if you are unsure.

Joining yarn in the middle of a row versus at the end

Joining at the end of a row or round is easier because you can tie on the new yarn, finish the row, and then weave in both ends when you are done. This gives you time to make sure the knot is find before you move on. The downside is that you have to finish the row with the old yarn even if you are almost out.

Joining mid-row is faster if you run out of yarn suddenly, but it requires more care. The Russian join is your best option here because it locks in place when ready and you can keep knitting without stopping. If you use the weave-in method mid-row, tie the knot loosely, finish the row, and then weave in both tails. Do not pull the knot tight until after you have woven in the ends, or you risk puckering the fabric.

For the spit splice mid-row, wet and rub the overlapped ends while you are still holding them, then keep knitting. The join will set as it dries. This is the fastest method for mid-row joins in wool yarn.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a regular knot to join yarn instead of these methods?

A regular knot creates a bulge in the fabric and can slip loose, especially in acrylic yarn. The three methods in this guide are stronger and less visible. If you do tie a knot, make it a square knot (right over left, then left over right) rather than a straightforward knot, and weave in both tails afterward to keep it from slipping.

What if my yarn is very thin or delicate?

Use the weave-in method with at least 3 inches of overlap. Thin yarn needs more length to hold securely. The Russian join can work with thin yarn if you thread carefully, but test it on a scrap first. Avoid the spit splice with delicate fibers because the rubbing can damage them.

Will the join show on the finished piece?

The Russian join and spit splice are invisible. The weave-in method hides the join inside the fabric, but if you wove in the tails carelessly, you might see a slight bump or line on the right side. Weave in both tails on the wrong side of the fabric to minimize any visibility.

How long does a spit splice take to dry and set?

The join sets as it dries, which takes about 10 to 30 minutes depending on humidity and yarn thickness. You can knit with it when ready—the friction and moisture have already bonded the fibers. It will not come undone even if it is still damp.

Can I join yarn in the middle of a colorwork or pattern section?

Yes, but try to join at a point where the color or pattern change is least noticeable. The Russian join and spit splice are invisible, so they work anywhere. The weave-in method is visible if you look closely, so hide the tails in a section of solid color if possible.