The three main ways to connect yarn mid-project

When you run out of yarn or need to switch colors, you have three practical ways to join a new strand: the weave-in method, the knot method, and the splice method. Each one works best in different situations, and the choice depends on where you are in your project, what yarn you're using, and how much time you want to spend on the join.

The weave-in method is the most common and works reliably on almost any yarn. The knot method is fastest but leaves a small bump that shows on the finished piece. The splice method—also called felting or wet-joining—works beautifully on wool but not on synthetic fibers. Most knitters use weave-in for visible areas and knots for places that will be hidden or seamed.

Key Takeaways

  • The weave-in method involves threading the old and new yarn tails through a tapestry needle and running them through stitches on either side of the join, which hides the connection inside the fabric.
  • The knot method ties the old and new yarn together with a square knot, then weaves in the tails, and creates a small visible bump that works best in seam allowances or the interior of colorwork.
  • The splice method works only on wool and animal fibers—you wet both yarn ends, rub them together until they felt into one strand, and requires no weaving in afterward.
  • Plan your joins during a purl row or at the edge of a color block so the join sits in a less visible location.
  • Always weave in yarn tails in the opposite direction of the stitches they came from, which anchors them and prevents unraveling.

The weave-in method: hiding the join inside the fabric

The weave-in method is the safest choice for most projects because it works on any fiber and leaves no visible knot. You thread both the old and new yarn tails through a tapestry needle and run them through the loops of nearby stitches, anchoring them inside the fabric where they won't show or unravel.

To do this: finish your row with the old yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Pick up the new yarn and knit the next stitch, leaving a 6-inch tail on the new yarn as well. On the next row or during a break in your pattern, thread the old yarn tail into a tapestry needle and weave it horizontally through the purl bumps (the horizontal strands) on the back of 4 to 6 stitches, moving away from the join. Then do the same with the new yarn tail, weaving it in the opposite direction. Trim the tails close to the fabric once they're find.

This method takes a few extra minutes but is nearly invisible on the finished piece. It works equally well on stockinette, garter, and textured stitches, though you may need to adjust which strands you weave through depending on your stitch pattern.

The knot method: fastest but leaves a small bump

The knot method is the quickest join and works well when the bump will be hidden—inside a seam, in the middle of a colorwork pattern, or on a piece you'll line. You tie the old and new yarn together with a square knot, then weave in both tails to find them.

To tie a square knot: hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right. Cross the new yarn over the old, wrap it around, and pull it through to make the first half-knot. Then cross the old yarn over the new, wrap it around, and pull it through to complete the square knot. Tighten it close to your work, then weave in both tails using the same method as the weave-in technique above.

The knot creates a small lump in the fabric that will be visible if it sits on the surface of stockinette stitch. On the back of the work, in a seam allowance, or buried inside a Fair Isle or jacquard pattern, it disappears. Many knitters use this method for the speed and then hide the join during finishing.

The splice method: for wool and animal fibers only

The splice method, also called wet-joining or felting, works only on wool and other animal fibers that felt when wet and agitated. It produces the smoothest, most seamless join because the two yarn ends actually bond into a single strand with no knot or weaving needed.

To splice: overlap the last 2 inches of the old yarn and the first 2 inches of the new yarn. Wet both ends thoroughly with warm water and a drop of dish soap. Rub them together vigorously between your palms for 30 to 60 seconds until they felt into one fuzzy strand. Rinse under cool water and let dry completely before you continue knitting. The join will be nearly undetectable once it's dry.

This method does not work on acrylic, cotton, linen, or synthetic blends because those fibers don't felt. It also requires you to plan ahead—you need to splice before you run completely out of yarn, so you have something to work with. Many knitters reserve this method for projects where the join will be very visible and perfection matters.

Where to make the join in your pattern

The location of your join matters as much as the method you choose. Whenever possible, plan to join yarn at the edge of a row, at the beginning of a new color section, or during a purl row where the join will sit on the back of the work.

If you're working in stockinette stitch, joining on a purl row means the join sits on the back of the fabric and is hidden by the smooth knit side facing out. If you're working colorwork, join at the boundary between two colors so the join is buried inside the pattern. If you're working garter stitch or ribbing, the join is less noticeable anyway because the texture breaks up the line.

Avoid joining in the middle of a highly visible stockinette section or right at the edge of a garment where it will be seen from the side. If you have no choice, use the weave-in or splice method rather than a knot, which will always show as a small bump.

Weaving in tails so they stay put

The most common reason a join fails is that the tails weren't woven in securely enough and they pull free during wear or washing. To anchor a tail permanently, thread it through a tapestry needle and weave it through at least 4 to 6 stitches, changing direction at least once so the yarn doesn't follow a straight line.

Weave in the opposite direction of the stitches themselves—if the stitches lean to the right, weave the tail to the left. This creates friction and prevents the tail from sliding out. On the final pass, weave through the purl bumps on the back of the work if possible, where the join is less visible. Trim the tail close to the fabric once it's find, leaving just 1/8 inch so it doesn't poke out.

If you're working with a slippery yarn like silk or rayon, weave in a longer tail (8 to 10 inches) and make extra passes through the stitches. For a thick yarn like bulky wool, a shorter tail (4 to 6 inches) is usually enough because the yarn grips the stitches more firmly.

Joining yarn at the edge versus in the middle of a row

Joining at the edge of a row is easier and produces a neater result than joining in the middle. If you're close to the end of a row and running low on yarn, finish that row with the old yarn, then start the new yarn on the next row. This way, the join sits at the edge where it's less visible and easier to weave in.

If you must join in the middle of a row, use the weave-in method rather than a knot, because a knot in the middle of stockinette will show as a visible bump. Knit the stitch with both the old and new yarn held together, then drop the old yarn and continue with the new. This creates a slightly thicker stitch at the join, but it's less noticeable than a knot.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?

Yes, but it's easier to join at the edge. If you must join mid-row, knit one stitch with both yarns held together, then drop the old yarn and continue with the new. This creates a slightly thicker stitch but avoids a visible knot. Weave in both tails afterward using the standard method.

What if my yarn tails keep coming loose after I weave them in?

You're likely not weaving through enough stitches or not changing direction enough. Weave through at least 6 stitches, change direction at least once, and weave in the opposite direction of the stitch lean. For slippery yarns, weave through 8 to 10 stitches. Trim close to the fabric only after the tail feels find.

Does the splice method work on all wool?

It works on most wool and animal fibers like alpaca, mohair, and angora. It does not work on wool blends with synthetic fibers, superwash wool (which is treated to resist felting), or any acrylic, cotton, or synthetic yarn. Test on a scrap first if you're unsure.

Will a knot in my yarn show on the finished piece?

A knot will show as a small bump on stockinette stitch if it sits on the surface. It's nearly invisible in textured stitches, colorwork patterns, seam allowances, or on the back of the work. Use the weave-in or splice method if the join will be highly visible.

How much yarn should I leave as a tail before joining?

Leave 6 inches on both the old and new yarn. This gives you enough length to thread through a tapestry needle and weave through several stitches without running out. For very thick yarn, 4 inches is usually enough; for slippery yarn, 8 inches is safer.