The three ways to connect yarn mid-project
When you're knitting in the round and run out of yarn, you have three main ways to join a new ball: the Russian join (threading yarn through stitches), the weaver's knot (tying the ends together), and the overlap method (working both strands as one for a few stitches). Each one leaves a different kind of join in your finished fabric—some nearly invisible, some slightly thicker—and each works better in different situations.
The Russian join is fastest and leaves almost no bump. The weaver's knot is strongest and works in any yarn weight. The overlap method is easiest to learn and works well in ribbed sections where the join hides naturally. Most knitters use all three depending on where they're joining and what yarn they're working with.
Key Takeaways
- The Russian join threads the new yarn through the old yarn's fibers and vice versa, creating a join with no knot that's nearly invisible in the finished fabric.
- The weaver's knot ties the two yarn ends together in a flat, tight knot that works in any yarn weight and is the strongest method.
- The overlap method works both strands as one for several stitches, then drops the old yarn, and works best in ribbed or textured sections where the join blends in.
- Always join yarn at the start of a round rather than in the middle of one, so the join sits at the edge where it's easiest to hide or weave in.
- Test your join by pulling hard on both yarn ends before you continue knitting—if it slips, tighten it or choose a different method.
The Russian join: threading yarn through itself
The Russian join works by threading each yarn end through the fibers of the other yarn, creating a join that holds without a knot. It's nearly invisible in stockinette stitch and leaves almost no bulk, which makes it the favorite for seamless garments and anywhere you want a smooth fabric.
To do it: Thread the old yarn end onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle through the new yarn, going lengthwise through the fibers for about an inch, then back out. Pull the old yarn end tight—it should disappear into the new yarn. Now thread the new yarn end onto the needle and do the same thing through the old yarn, going in the opposite direction. Pull tight. Trim both ends close to the yarn. The join should hold when you tug both ends hard.
This method works best in smooth, tightly spun yarns like fingering weight or sport weight. It's harder to do in fluffy or loosely spun yarns because the fibers don't grip as well. If you're working with a fuzzy yarn and the join keeps slipping, switch to the weaver's knot instead.
The weaver's knot: a flat, strong tie
The weaver's knot is a specific way of tying two yarn ends together that creates a flat knot rather than a bulky one. It's stronger than a regular square knot and works in any yarn weight, from lace to bulky. The knot itself is small enough that you can often work right over it without it catching on your needles.
To tie it: Hold the old yarn end in your left hand, making a small loop. Hold the new yarn end in your right hand. Pass the new yarn end up through the loop from underneath, then wrap it around the back of the loop, then down through the loop again from the top. Pull both yarn ends tight. The knot should sit flat and feel solid when you tug it.
The weaver's knot is your best choice if you're joining in a yarn that's slippery (like bamboo or silk) or very thick (like chunky wool). It's also the right choice if you're joining in the middle of a section where you can't hide the join at a seam. The downside is that the knot itself is visible, so you'll want to weave the ends in carefully on the inside of the garment, or position the join where a seam or texture will hide it.
The overlap method: working two strands as one
The overlap method doesn't use a knot at all. Instead, you work the last few stitches with both the old yarn and the new yarn held together, then drop the old yarn and keep going. The overlap creates a slightly thicker section, but in ribbed or textured stitches it blends in completely.
To do it: When you're ready to join, hold both yarn ends together and knit with both strands for 4 to 6 stitches (or more in very thin yarn). Then drop the old yarn and continue with the new yarn alone. Later, when you're weaving in ends, you'll weave the old yarn end back through those overlapped stitches, and the new yarn end forward through them. The join will be locked in place by the stitches themselves.
This method is the easiest to learn because there's no technique to master—you just knit normally with two strands. It works especially well in 1×1 or 2×2 ribbing because the texture hides the slight thickness. It's less good in stockinette stitch, where the thicker section will be visible. If you're working in a color pattern or Fair Isle, the overlap method can also work well because the pattern itself distracts from the join.
Where to join: timing matters
Always join yarn at the start of a round, never in the middle of one. This puts the join at the edge of your work, where it's easiest to hide or weave in later. If you're working a garment in pieces, join at a seam line if you can.
If you're working in the round and the join falls in an awkward spot—say, in the middle of a cable or color pattern—you can knit a few more stitches to move the join to a better location. It's worth the extra few stitches to put the join somewhere it won't be obvious.
For ribbed sections, the overlap method works so well that you don't need to worry much about placement. For stockinette, the Russian join is your best bet because it's nearly invisible anywhere. For bulky yarn or slippery yarn, the weaver's knot is strong enough that placement matters less—the knot itself will hold no matter where it sits.
Testing the join before you continue
Before you knit the next stitch, pull hard on both yarn ends to make sure the join is solid. If it slips or feels loose, tighten it now. A join that feels weak when you test it will unravel later, sometimes not until you've already finished the garment.
For the Russian join, pull both ends until they disappear completely into the yarn. For the weaver's knot, pull until the knot is tight and the yarn ends are snug. For the overlap method, just make sure both yarn ends are held firmly in your stitches—they should not slide at all when you tug them.
Once the join is find, trim the yarn ends. For the Russian join, trim very close to the yarn—within a quarter inch. For the weaver's knot, leave about a half inch of yarn on each side of the knot so it doesn't unravel. For the overlap method, trim the old yarn end close, but leave the new yarn end long enough to weave in later.
Choosing the right method for your yarn
Smooth, tightly spun yarns like merino, fingering weight, or sport weight take the Russian join beautifully. The fibers grip well and the join disappears into the fabric. Loosely spun, fuzzy, or novelty yarns don't work well with the Russian join because the fibers slip—use the weaver's knot instead.
Slippery yarns like bamboo, silk, or rayon need the weaver's knot because they won't hold in a Russian join no matter how tight you pull. Thick or bulky yarns can use any method, but the overlap method is often easiest because you don't have to thread a needle through thick fibers. Variegated or hand-dyed yarns look best with the Russian join because there's no knot to interrupt the color pattern.
If you're not sure which method will work best, do a small test on a swatch before you join in your actual project. Knit a few rows, join using each method, and see which one feels strongest and looks best in your yarn.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use the Russian join in every yarn?
No. The Russian join works best in smooth, tightly spun yarns where the fibers grip each other. In fuzzy, loosely spun, or slippery yarns, the join will slip no matter how tight you pull it. Test it on a swatch first if you're unsure.
What if the weaver's knot keeps coming untied?
You're probably not pulling it tight enough. Pull both yarn ends hard until the knot is completely snug and flat. If it still slips, you may be working with a yarn that's too slippery for this knot—try the Russian join instead, or work the overlap method.
Do I have to weave in the ends after I join?
Yes, even after you've joined. The join itself holds the yarn in place, but the short ends can work loose over time. Weave each end back through several stitches on the inside of the garment, or along a seam, so they're locked in place.
Can I join in the middle of a round if I have to?
You can, but the join will be more visible. If you must join mid-round, use the Russian join if your yarn allows it, because it's the least noticeable. Otherwise, position the join where a seam or texture will hide it, or plan to weave the ends in very carefully.
What's the difference between the weaver's knot and a regular square knot?
The weaver's knot creates a flatter, tighter knot that's less likely to slip in yarn. A square knot is bulkier and can come undone more easily. For joining yarn, the weaver's knot is the better choice.