Count rows by running your finger up the side of your work and marking each horizontal bump you feel

The easiest way to count rows is to look at the edge of your knitting where the yarn runs up the side. Each complete row creates one horizontal ridge or bump. Place your finger at the cast-on edge and move it upward, counting each bump as you go. This works best when you stop knitting and count before you've gone too far — trying to count 50 rows after the fact is harder than counting as you work.

If you're mid-row and need to know how many rows you've completed, count only the bumps below your working yarn, not the row you're currently on. The row on your needles doesn't count as finished yet.

Key Takeaways

  • Count rows by feeling or seeing the horizontal bumps along the edge of your knitting, starting from the cast-on edge and moving upward.
  • Mark your row count with a stitch marker, safety pin, or scrap yarn every 10 rows so you don't lose track of where you are.
  • If you lose count partway through, count only the bumps below your working yarn, since the current row isn't finished yet.
  • Row counters — small handheld devices or app-based tools — let you click or tap after each row so you never have to recount.

Mark rows with a stitch marker or safety pin as you work

Counting rows becomes much easier if you mark your progress as you go. Every 10 rows, slip a stitch marker or safety pin through the edge stitch on the side of your work. This breaks the counting into smaller chunks — instead of counting 60 rows, you count 10 rows six times. When you need to know your total, count the markers and multiply by 10, then add any rows above the last marker.

If you don't have stitch markers, a piece of scrap yarn works just as well. Tie it loosely around the edge stitch, making sure it's loose enough that you can slip it out later without snagging your work. Some knitters use safety pins clipped to the edge, which are harder to accidentally knit into.

Use a row counter to track automatically

A row counter removes the need to count at all. Handheld mechanical counters are small plastic devices with a dial you click after each row — they cost a few dollars and fit on your needle or in your project bag. Digital counters and knitting apps do the same thing but on your phone, and some let you set a target row number and alert you when you reach it.

The downside of row counters is that you have to remember to click after every single row. If you forget even once, your count is off. Many knitters use a counter for the first few rows of a pattern, then switch to marking every 10 rows once they're confident in their rhythm.

Count rows in ribbing and textured stitches by looking at the pattern repeat

Ribbing and cables create vertical lines that can make horizontal row bumps harder to see. Instead of counting bumps on the edge, count the number of times your pattern repeats vertically. If your ribbing is a 2-by-2 pattern (2 knit stitches, 2 purl stitches), each complete vertical repeat equals 2 rows. Count how many repeats you have and multiply by 2.

For cables and other textured stitches, the same idea applies — find the smallest unit of the pattern that repeats vertically, count how many times it repeats, and multiply. This method is less precise than counting bumps on stockinette stitch, so it works best as a rough check rather than an exact count.

Recount if you lose track partway through

If you've been knitting without marking rows and suddenly realize you don't know where you are, stop and count from the cast-on edge. Lay your work flat on a table if you can, and count the bumps slowly. It's tedious, but it takes only a minute or two and beats ripping out rows because you guessed wrong.

Once you know your count, mark that spot with a stitch marker so you don't lose track again. Going forward, mark every 10 rows — this safety net saves you from having to recount if you lose count a second time.

Count rows in the round by looking at the spiral

When you knit in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles, rows form a spiral instead of a flat edge. Count the same way you would on flat knitting — by counting the horizontal bumps — but start at the cast-on edge and trace the spiral upward. It's the same bumps, just arranged in a circle instead of a straight line.

Marking rows in the round is trickier because there's no single edge to clip a marker to. Instead, use a removable stitch marker or safety pin placed in a stitch at the beginning of the round. After each round, move the marker up one row. This takes a second per round but keeps you from losing count.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I can't see the row bumps clearly?

Dark yarn or fuzzy yarn can hide the bumps. Try counting with your finger instead of your eyes — run your fingertip up the edge and feel for each ridge. If that doesn't work, use a row counter or mark every 5 rows instead of 10 so you have less ground to recount if you lose track.

Do I count the cast-on row?

Most patterns don't count the cast-on row as row 1. Row 1 is the first row you knit after casting on. Check your pattern to be sure, but this is the standard. If your pattern says "knit 20 rows," you'll have 20 rows of knitting plus the cast-on edge below them.

How do I count rows if I'm using a pattern with increases or decreases?

Count the bumps on the side of your work, not the stitches. Increases and decreases change the number of stitches but not the number of rows, so the bumps still tell you how many rows you've completed. If the edge is uneven because of the shaping, count bumps in a column that's easier to see.

Can I count rows by counting stitches on my needle?

No — the number of stitches on your needle tells you how many stitches wide your work is, not how many rows tall it is. Always count rows by looking at the bumps on the edge or by using a row counter.