Start with a sketch and a stitch count
Creating a knitting pattern begins with deciding what you want to make and how it will fit. Sketch the shape on paper — a straightforward rectangle for a scarf, a trapezoid for a hat, a rectangle with arm holes for a sweater. Measure a finished garment you own that fits well, or decide on dimensions: width, length, sleeve length if needed. Write these numbers down.
Next, knit a gauge swatch in the yarn and stitch you plan to use. Knit a square at least 4 inches by 4 inches in stockinette stitch (or whatever stitch your pattern will use). Wash and dry it the way you'll wash the finished piece. Measure how many stitches and rows fit in 4 inches. If your gauge is 20 stitches and 28 rows per 4 inches, divide by 4 to get 5 stitches and 7 rows per inch. This number is essential — it tells you how many stitches to cast on to reach your desired width.
Multiply your desired width in inches by your stitch gauge. If you want a 36-inch-wide sweater and your gauge is 5 stitches per inch, cast on 180 stitches. Write this down. Do the same for length: multiply desired length by row gauge to find how many rows to knit before binding off.
Key Takeaways
- Gauge — the number of stitches and rows per inch — determines every measurement in your pattern, so knit and measure a swatch before you begin.
- Sketch your garment shape and write down finished measurements (width, length, sleeve length) before you calculate stitch counts.
- Use a spreadsheet or pattern template to organize cast-on numbers, row counts, and shaping instructions so you can follow them while knitting and share them clearly with others.
- Test your pattern by knitting it once, marking any confusing steps or errors, then rewrite those sections before sharing or saving the final version.
- Write shaping instructions (increases and decreases) in a way that tells the knitter exactly where to place them — "increase 1 stitch at each edge every 6 rows" is clearer than "shape armhole."
Map out increases and decreases for shaping
Most garments need shaping — narrower at the waist, wider at the bust, tapered sleeves. Decide where shaping happens and how gradual it is. If you need to go from 180 stitches to 160 stitches over 40 rows, you need to decrease 20 stitches total. Spread evenly, that's one decrease every 2 rows (40 rows ÷ 20 decreases = 2 rows between each decrease).
Write the instruction plainly: "Decrease 1 stitch at each edge every 2 rows 10 times" (10 decreases on each side = 20 total). Include which rows these happen on if the pattern is complex. For a straightforward garment, "every 2 rows" is enough. For a fitted sweater with multiple shaping zones, number the rows: "Rows 1–40: decrease 1 stitch at each edge every 2 rows" and "Rows 41–80: knit even."
The same logic applies to increases. If a sleeve needs to grow from 40 stitches to 60 stitches over 60 rows, you need 20 new stitches. Spread across 60 rows, that's roughly one increase every 3 rows. Write: "Increase 1 stitch at each edge every 3 rows 10 times."
Organize your pattern in a clear format
Write your pattern in sections: materials, gauge, finished measurements, abbreviations, and then the instructions broken by piece (back, front, sleeves, etc.). Use a consistent structure so a knitter can follow it without guessing what comes next.
For each piece, list cast-on number, stitch pattern, and row-by-row or section-by-section instructions. Example:
Back Cast on 90 stitches in size 6 needles. Rows 1–20: Knit 2, purl 2 rib. Change to size 8 needles. Rows 21–60: Stockinette stitch. Rows 61–80: Decrease 1 stitch at each edge every 2 rows 10 times. (70 stitches remain.) Rows 81–100: Stockinette stitch. Bind off.
Include stitch counts in parentheses after shaping so the knitter knows whether they're on track. If your pattern uses a special stitch — cables, lace, colorwork — write out the repeat clearly and tell the knitter how many times to repeat it per row.
Use a spreadsheet or template to stay organized
A spreadsheet makes it easier to adjust your pattern for different sizes. Create columns for stitch count, row count, and shaping instructions. Add rows for each size (small, medium, large) so a knitter can see all the numbers at once.
Example layout:
| Measurement | Small | Medium | Large |
| Finished width | 32 inches | 36 inches | 40 inches |
| Cast-on stitches | 160 | 180 | 200 |
| Waist decreases | Decrease 1 st each edge every 4 rows, 8 times | Decrease 1 st each edge every 4 rows, 10 times | Decrease 1 st each edge every 4 rows, 12 times |
This layout lets you write one pattern that works for multiple sizes without repeating instructions three times. A knitter can find their size and follow the numbers for that column.
Test your pattern by knitting it
Knit your pattern from start to finish using your own written instructions, not from memory. Mark any step that confused you, any row count that didn't match, any shaping that looked wrong. If you had to guess or improvise, your pattern wasn't clear enough.
Check that the finished measurements match what you wrote down. If the sweater is 2 inches wider than planned, your gauge swatch may have changed after washing, or you miscalculated. Figure out which, then correct the cast-on number or row count in your pattern.
Rewrite any confusing sections. If you wrote "shape armhole" but didn't specify how many rows or stitches, add those numbers. If a stitch pattern repeat doesn't divide evenly into your cast-on number, adjust one or the other so it works.
Write abbreviations and special stitches clearly
List every abbreviation you use at the top of your pattern. Include: k (knit), p (purl), yo (yarn over), k2tog (knit 2 together), ssk (slip, slip, knit), inc (increase), dec (decrease), and any others. If you use a cable stitch or lace pattern, write out the full repeat so someone unfamiliar with it can follow along.
Example cable repeat: "C4F: Slip 4 stitches to cable needle, hold in front, knit 4 stitches from left needle, knit 4 stitches from cable needle."
If your pattern uses a chart (for colorwork or lace), include the chart and explain what each symbol means. A knitter should never have to guess whether a blank square means knit or purl.
Document yarn weight, needle size, and finishing details
At the top of your pattern, state the yarn weight (worsted, DK, bulky, etc.) and the yardage needed for each size. Include the needle size you used and the gauge you achieved. This tells a knitter whether they can substitute a different yarn and what adjustments they might need to make.
Add finishing instructions: how to seam pieces together, whether to block the finished garment, how to pick up stitches for a neckband, and how to bind off. If your pattern includes a zipper, buttons, or other notions, list them in the materials section with quantities.
Include care instructions — whether the garment should be hand-washed, machine-washed, or dry-cleaned, and whether it can go in the dryer. This matters because it affects how a knitter will treat the finished piece and whether they need to account for shrinkage in their measurements.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if my gauge changes after I wash the swatch?
Recalculate your stitch and row counts using the new gauge. If your swatch shrank, your finished garment will too, so you need to cast on more stitches to reach the same width. This is why washing and drying the gauge swatch the same way you'll treat the finished piece is essential.
How do I write a pattern for a garment with multiple stitch patterns?
Break the pattern into zones and write instructions for each. Example: "Rows 1–20: Knit 2, purl 2 rib. Rows 21–60: Stockinette stitch. Rows 61–80: Cable pattern (see chart)." Include the full repeat for each stitch pattern and tell the knitter how many times to repeat it across the row.
Can I write a pattern for a size I haven't knitted yet?
Yes, if you use your gauge and math to calculate the numbers. But test the pattern by knitting at least one size before you share it. Errors in shaping or stitch counts show up when you knit, not on paper.
What should I do if someone finds an error in my pattern after I share it?
Thank them, verify the error by knitting that section yourself, and post a corrected version. Keep a version history so people know which errors were fixed and when. This builds trust and helps other knitters avoid the same mistake.