What an M1 is and why you need it

An M1 (make one) is a way to add a new stitch to your needle without casting on. Instead of increasing by knitting twice into the same stitch, an M1 creates a stitch from the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two stitches on your needle. The result is a nearly invisible increase that sits flat against your fabric.

You use M1 when a pattern calls for a gradual shape change — widening a sleeve, adding stitches for a raglan neckline, or shaping the sides of a garment. Because the increase is small and neat, it works better than other methods when you need the edge to look finished and intentional.

There are two versions: M1L (make one left) and M1R (make one right). The direction you lean the new stitch determines which one you use. Most patterns tell you which to pick, but if they do not, M1L and M1R placed on opposite sides of your work will balance each other visually.

Key Takeaways

  • An M1 creates a new stitch from the strand between two existing stitches, leaving no visible hole in your fabric.
  • M1L leans the new stitch to the left, and M1R leans it to the right; use the direction your pattern specifies.
  • You pick up the strand from front to back for M1L and from back to front for M1R, then knit through the back loop.
  • The increase sits one row below your working needle and blends into the fabric when done correctly.

How to do an M1L (left-leaning increase)

Start with your working yarn on the right side of your needle. Look at the horizontal strand that runs between the stitch you just knitted (on your right needle) and the next stitch waiting to be knitted (on your left needle).

Insert your left needle from front to back under that strand, lifting it onto your needle. You now have a new loop sitting on your left needle, but it is twisted. Knit through the back loop of this new stitch using your working yarn. This twist is what keeps the hole from forming. Drop the strand off your needle. You have added one stitch.

How to do an M1R (right-leaning increase)

Position your working yarn on the right side of your needle, just as you would for any knit stitch. Find the horizontal strand between your just-knitted stitch and the next stitch waiting on your left needle.

Insert your left needle from back to front under that strand, lifting it onto your needle. This time the twist runs the opposite direction. Knit through the back loop of this new stitch. Drop the strand. You have added one stitch that leans to the right.

Why you knit through the back loop

When you pick up the strand between stitches, it sits on your needle in a twisted state. If you knit through the front loop the way you normally would, that twist creates a visible hole. Knitting through the back loop untwists the stitch and closes the gap.

This is the detail that separates a clean M1 from a sloppy one. The back-loop knit is not optional — it is what makes the increase disappear into your work.

Placing M1 increases in your pattern

Most patterns write M1 increases one or two stitches in from the edge. Instead of increasing on stitch 1, you might increase on stitch 2 or 3. This creates a small border of regular stitches that frames the edge and makes the shaping look intentional rather than accidental.

When you are increasing on both sides of a piece — like widening a sleeve — place M1L on the left edge and M1R on the right edge. They will mirror each other and create a balanced look. If your pattern does not specify which direction to use, this is the standard approach.

Count your stitches after each increase row to make sure you have added the right number. It is easier to catch a mistake one row after it happens than ten rows later.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common error is forgetting to knit through the back loop. You pick up the strand, put it on your needle, and knit it the normal way. The result is a visible hole that looks like a yarn-over increase instead of a make-one. If you see a hole, you picked up the strand correctly but knitted it the wrong way.

Another mistake is picking up the wrong strand. The strand you need is the one that connects the stitch you just finished to the stitch you are about to knit. If you grab a strand that is too far away or too close, you will either skip a stitch or create an uneven gap. Look closely at where your needle is sitting before you reach for the strand.

Some knitters also struggle with tension on the new stitch. If it is much looser or tighter than the stitches around it, your fabric will look bumpy. Keep your tension even by holding your yarn the same way you do for regular knit stitches.

M1 versus other increase methods

A knit front and back (KFB) increase creates a visible bump because you are working twice into the same stitch. It is faster than M1 but leaves a mark. Use KFB when you want the increase to show — like for decorative shaping or when a pattern specifically calls for it.

A yarn-over increase creates a deliberate hole and is used for lace patterns. It is the opposite of M1: you want the hole to be visible.

An M1 is the choice when you need to add stitches without drawing attention to them. It blends into stockinette stitch and other smooth fabrics. For fitted garments and professional-looking edges, M1 is usually the right pick.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I do an M1 at the very edge of my work, or do I need a border stitch?

You can do an M1 at the edge, but most patterns place it one or two stitches in. A border stitch makes the shaping look intentional and gives you a clean edge to seam later. If your pattern does not specify, moving the increase in by one stitch is the safer choice.

What if I cannot find the strand between stitches?

The strand is always there — it is the horizontal line of yarn connecting two stitches. Look at the row below your needle. The strand sits in the valley between the two stitches. If you are having trouble seeing it, try holding your work up to the light or using a stitch marker to point to the exact spot.

Does it matter which direction I lean the increase if the pattern does not say?

If you are increasing on only one side of your work, the direction does not matter much. If you are increasing on both sides, using M1L on the left and M1R on the right creates a balanced, symmetrical look. Consistency matters more than the specific direction.

Can I do an M1 on a purl row?

Yes. Pick up the strand the same way, but purl through the back loop instead of knitting. The principle is identical — you are untwisting the strand by working through the back loop.

What if my M1 stitch is much looser than the stitches around it?

Tension usually evens out over a few rows as you work. If it stays loose, try tightening your working yarn slightly on the row after the increase. You can also go down a needle size for one row to make the new stitch sit tighter, then return to your regular size.