The Purl Stitch: Working Yarn in Front Instead of Back
A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch — instead of inserting your needle from front to back, you insert it from back to front, and you keep your working yarn in front of the needle instead of behind it. The result is a bump on the side facing you rather than a V-shape. Once you can knit, learning to purl takes about five minutes of practice, and the two stitches together let you create almost every texture in knitting.
The purl stitch looks different from the knit stitch because the yarn path is reversed. When you knit, the yarn sits behind your needles; when you purl, it sits in front. This straightforward change flips which side of the stitch faces outward, which is why knit and purl rows create the bumpy texture called garter stitch, or why alternating them row by row creates stockinette stitch.
Key Takeaways
- The purl stitch requires you to hold your working yarn in front of the needles before you insert the right needle, unlike the knit stitch where yarn stays in back.
- You insert the right needle from back to front (the opposite direction of a knit stitch) and wrap the yarn around it before pulling through.
- The purl stitch creates a bump or ridge on the side of the fabric facing you, which is the defining visual difference from a knit stitch.
- Practicing purl stitches on a practice swatch using worsted-weight yarn and size 8 or 9 needles makes it easier to see what you are doing than using thin yarn.
Step-by-Step: How to Purl
Start with your working yarn in front of your needles. This is the first and most important difference from a knit stitch. If your yarn is in back, bring it forward between the needles before you begin.
Insert your right needle into the next stitch on the left needle from back to front — that is, push the tip of the right needle through the stitch from the side away from you toward the side facing you. This is the opposite direction from a knit stitch. The right needle should pass through the stitch loop, and your working yarn should still be in front of both needles.
Wrap your working yarn around the right needle, moving it from left to right. The yarn should go around the shaft of the right needle, creating a loop. Keep the yarn in front as you wrap.
Pull the right needle back through the stitch, bringing the new loop with it. The old stitch loop stays on the left needle for now. You should now have a new loop on the right needle and the working yarn should be in front again.
Slip the old stitch off the left needle. Push it off the tip of the left needle with your thumb or finger, and the new purl stitch is complete. Repeat this motion for each stitch across the row.
Common Mistakes That Slow Down Beginners
The most frequent error is forgetting to bring the yarn to the front before you start. If your yarn is in back when you insert the needle, you will either create a twisted stitch or accidentally knit instead of purl. Before each purl stitch, glance down and confirm the yarn is in front of both needles.
The second mistake is inserting the needle in the wrong direction. A purl stitch requires you to go from back to front; a knit stitch goes front to back. If you are not sure which way you are going, remember that your needle tip should come toward you, not away from you. Slow down and watch the needle path rather than relying on muscle memory until the motion becomes automatic.
Beginners also sometimes wrap the yarn the wrong way around the needle. The yarn should go from left to right as you wrap it around the right needle shaft. If you wrap it backward, you will create a twisted stitch that looks wrong and can cause problems in the next row.
Knit and Purl Together: Creating Fabric Patterns
Once you can do both knit and purl stitches, you can create different textures by combining them. Garter stitch — the bumpy, reversible fabric — is made by knitting every row. Stockinette stitch — smooth V-shapes on one side, bumps on the other — is made by knitting one row, then purling the next row, then repeating. Ribbed fabric, which stretches and hugs, is made by alternating knit and purl stitches within the same row.
The purl stitch is also essential for fixing mistakes. If you drop a stitch and need to pick it back up, you may need to purl it depending on which direction the stitches are facing. Learning to purl gives you the flexibility to work in any direction and fix problems without ripping out rows.
Practice Exercises to Build Speed and Consistency
Cast on 20 stitches using worsted-weight yarn and size 8 or 9 needles. Knit the first row to warm up. On the second row, purl every stitch across. Count your stitches at the end — you should still have 20. Repeat this pattern (knit one row, purl one row) for at least 10 rows.
As you work, pay attention to the rhythm. Purl stitches are slightly slower than knit stitches for most people because the yarn path is less natural at first. Do not rush. Consistent, even tension matters more than speed. If some stitches are tight and others loose, slow down and focus on wrapping the yarn the same way each time.
After you finish your practice swatch, look at it from both sides. One side should show smooth V-shapes (the knit rows), and the other side should show bumps (the purl rows). This is garter stitch, and it proves you can do both stitches correctly.
Holding Yarn: English vs. Continental Style
How you hold your yarn affects how you purl. In English style (yarn in right hand), you throw the yarn around the needle with your right hand. In Continental style (yarn in left hand), you use your left index finger to move the yarn and pick it up with the needle. Neither method is wrong — the choice is personal.
Many knitters find that purl stitches feel more natural in Continental style because the yarn is already in front and you straightforward use your finger to wrap it. In English style, you have to move your right hand more to bring the yarn forward and wrap it. Try both methods on your practice swatch and stick with whichever feels less awkward. You can always switch later.
Tension and Purl Stitches
Purl stitches often come out looser than knit stitches, especially when you are learning. This happens because the yarn path is longer and less familiar, so you unconsciously relax your tension. To fix this, consciously tighten the yarn slightly as you wrap it around the needle, and pull a little harder as you draw the loop through.
If your purl stitches are much looser than your knit stitches, your finished fabric will look uneven. The solution is practice and awareness. After a few rows, your hands will remember the motion and the tension will even out naturally. If you are still struggling after 20 rows, try going down one needle size for purl rows only, then switch back to your original size for knit rows — this is a legitimate technique used by many knitters.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a knit stitch and a purl stitch?
A knit stitch is made by inserting the needle from front to back with yarn in back, while a purl stitch is made by inserting from back to front with yarn in front. The purl stitch creates a bump on the side facing you; the knit stitch creates a V-shape. They are mirror images of each other.
Do I have to move my yarn between knit and purl stitches?
Yes. If you are knitting one row and purling the next, you must bring the yarn to the front before you start purling, and move it to the back before you start knitting again. If you forget, you will accidentally create extra stitches or twisted stitches. Some knitters use this movement as a rhythm cue to help them remember which stitch comes next.
Why do my purl stitches look different from my knit stitches?
Uneven tension is the most common cause. Purl stitches often come out looser because the yarn path feels less natural. Focus on wrapping the yarn firmly and pulling the loop through with consistent pressure. After more practice, your tension will match automatically.
Can I purl if I knit Continental style?
Yes. Continental knitters often find purling easier because the yarn is already positioned in front. You straightforward use your left index finger to move the yarn and pick it up with the needle. The motion is slightly different from English style but equally valid.
What happens if I purl when I should knit?
You will create a different texture than intended. If a pattern calls for stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row) and you knit every row instead, you will get garter stitch, which looks bumpy on both sides. Always check your pattern before each row to confirm which stitch you need.