What colorwork knitting is and how it works
Colorwork knitting means knitting with two or more yarn colors in the same row to create a pattern or design. Instead of switching colors between rows (which is called striping), you carry one color across the back of your work while you knit with another color in the front. The two main methods are stranded colorwork and intarsia, and stranded is where most people start because it uses the same basic knit stitch you already know.
In stranded colorwork, you hold two colors at once—one in each hand or both in one hand—and drop and pick up colors as the pattern tells you. The yarn you are not using gets carried, or "stranded," loosely across the back of your stitches. When you pick it up again a few stitches later, it becomes part of the fabric. The pattern itself comes from a chart: a grid where each square is one stitch, and different colors or symbols show you which color to knit that stitch in.
Intarsia is the other main method, used for larger blocks of solid color. Instead of carrying yarn across the back, you use a separate ball or bobbin of yarn for each color block, and twist the yarns together where colors meet to avoid holes. Intarsia is more complex and is usually a second-project technique, so this guide focuses on stranded colorwork.
Key Takeaways
- Stranded colorwork means holding two yarn colors at once and carrying the unused color across the back of your work as you knit.
- You read a colorwork chart row by row, from right to left on knit rows and left to right on purl rows, using different colors for different squares.
- Tension is the biggest challenge: the stranded yarn must be loose enough not to pucker the fabric, but tight enough not to create loops on the back.
- Start with a small project like a hat or mittens where you knit mostly in the round, because flat knitting with colorwork is harder to tension correctly.
- Weaving in the stranded yarn as you go prevents long floats on the back that can catch fingers or get snagged.
How to read a colorwork chart
A colorwork chart is a grid where each small square represents one stitch. The chart shows you which color to knit each stitch in. The bottom row of the chart is the first row you knit, and you read it from right to left (the same direction your stitches go onto the needle). The next row up is the second row, and you read it from left to right. This back-and-forth pattern continues up the chart.
Each color in the chart is shown as a different symbol or shade. The legend at the side or bottom of the chart tells you which symbol or color means which yarn. Some charts use actual colors; others use symbols like dots, dashes, or letters. Before you start, mark off each row with a sticky note or highlighter so you do not lose your place. Many knitters print the chart and cross off each row as they finish it.
If the chart shows a pattern that repeats across the row, the repeat is usually marked with a box or brackets. You knit the stitches inside the repeat box as many times as the pattern calls for, then knit any edge stitches outside the box once. This saves space on the chart and lets you scale the pattern to any width you need.
Setting up your yarn and tension
Before you cast on, wind both colors into separate balls. If you are using yarn from a skein, wind it into a ball first so it does not tangle. Hold both colors at the same time as you cast on, using both strands together or casting on with just your main color—either way works, as long as you are ready to work with both colors on the first row.
Tension is where colorwork becomes tricky. The yarn you are not using (the "float") must be loose enough that it does not pull the fabric tight and pucker it, but tight enough that it does not create long loops on the back that catch on things. The best way to learn this is to knit a swatch first. Cast on 20 to 30 stitches in your main color and knit 20 to 30 rows following a straightforward two-color pattern from a chart. Do not skip this step—tension problems are much easier to fix on a swatch than on a finished project.
As you knit, keep the stranded yarn slightly loose in your hand. Some knitters hold it at a higher tension than the working yarn; others hold it lower. Experiment on your swatch to find what feels natural. If your fabric is puckering, loosen the float. If you see loops on the back, tighten it. The float should sit flat against the back of the fabric without pulling.
The two-handed holding method
Many colorwork knitters hold one color in each hand—one in the right hand (English style) and one in the left hand (Continental style). This is faster than switching hands back and forth, and it helps you keep even tension because each color stays in the same hand.
To set this up, hold your working yarn in your right hand the way you normally knit. Hold the second color in your left hand, ready to knit Continental style (with the yarn on your index finger). When the chart tells you to knit with the right-hand color, knit as usual. When you need the left-hand color, use your left hand to knit that stitch while your right hand rests. It feels awkward at first, but after a few rows it becomes automatic.
If you do not knit Continental, you can still use two hands by holding both colors in your right hand but separating them with your fingers—one over your index finger and one over your middle finger. This takes practice but avoids learning a new knitting style. Alternatively, hold both colors in one hand (whichever is comfortable) and let them separate naturally as you work. This is slower but works fine for small projects.
Knitting the colorwork rows
Once you have cast on and are ready to start, follow the chart row by row. Look at the first square on the right side of the bottom row. That square tells you which color to use for the first stitch. Knit that stitch in that color. Move to the next square to the left and knit the next stitch in whatever color that square shows. Continue across the row.
When you switch from one color to the next, drop the old color and pick up the new one. The old color becomes the float on the back. Keep the float loose—do not pull it tight. If you have more than four or five stitches in the same color before you switch, the float will be long. Long floats can catch on fingers or get snagged, so many knitters weave in the unused color every few stitches to keep floats short.
When you reach the end of the row, turn your work and read the next row from left to right (the opposite direction). Follow the chart the same way: one square, one stitch, in the color the square shows. After a few rows, the pattern will start to emerge and you will stop thinking about the chart and start recognizing the design.
Weaving in floats to prevent snagging
A float is the strand of yarn running across the back of your work. If a float is longer than about half an inch, it can catch on a finger when you pull the garment on or off, or snag on something and pull the stitches. To prevent this, you can weave the unused color into the back of your stitches as you go.
To weave in a float, hold the unused yarn above or below your working yarn, then knit the next stitch as usual. The working yarn will pass over or under the float, locking it into place. Do this every three or four stitches if the float is getting long. You do not need to weave in every stitch—just often enough to keep floats short. On your swatch, you will see how this looks and feels, and you can adjust the frequency based on your pattern.
Some knitters prefer to weave in floats after the project is done, during finishing. This is fine if you are careful and do not pull too tight. Weaving in as you go is easier because you can feel the tension and adjust it in real time, and it spreads the work out instead of leaving it all for the end.
Choosing your first colorwork project
Start small. A colorwork hat, mittens, or cowl is much more forgiving than a sweater. Hats and mittens are usually knit in the round, which means you always read the chart from right to left and always knit on the right side of the fabric. This is easier than flat knitting, where you have to flip the chart direction every other row and manage tension on both sides.
Look for patterns labeled "beginner colorwork" or "two-color stranded." These use only two colors and have straightforward, repeating patterns. Avoid patterns with very long floats or frequent color changes in the first few rows. A pattern where you knit four or five stitches in one color before switching is much easier to manage than one where colors alternate every stitch.
Many free colorwork charts are available online through knitting sites and pattern databases. Ravelry, a knitting project tracker, has thousands of free patterns you can filter by difficulty and project type. Start with a pattern that has been knit by many people and has good reviews—this usually means the chart is clear and the pattern is well-written.
Fixing common mistakes
If you drop a stitch in colorwork, pick it up the same way you would in plain knitting, but pay attention to which color the stitch should be. If the dropped stitch is in a different color than the surrounding stitches, make sure you use the right color yarn to pick it up. If you cannot tell which color it should be, look at the chart and the rows above and below to figure it out.
If you knit a stitch in the wrong color, you have two choices: frog back (pull out the yarn and reknit) to the mistake, or use a duplicate stitch to fix it after you are done. Duplicate stitch means using a needle and yarn to embroider over the wrong stitch with the right color. For small mistakes, duplicate stitch is faster. For mistakes that affect the pattern or are very visible, frogging is better.
If your fabric is puckering, your floats are too tight. Loosen them on the next project or the next section. If you see loops on the back, your floats are too loose. Tighten them slightly. Tension improves with practice, and every project teaches you something about what works for your hands.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use colorwork on a flat piece instead of in the round?
Yes, but it is harder. When you knit flat, you read the chart in opposite directions on alternate rows, which makes it straightforward to lose your place. You also have to manage tension on both the knit and purl sides. Start with in-the-round projects and move to flat pieces once you are comfortable with the technique.
What if I run out of yarn in one color partway through?
Tie on a new ball of the same color using a weaver's knot or a straightforward square knot, leaving a tail about 6 inches long. Weave the tails in during finishing. Try to tie on at the edge of the fabric or in a place where the knot will be hidden by the pattern. Avoid tying on in the middle of a large block of solid color where the knot will show.
How do I keep my floats from showing through on the front?
Make sure your floats are not too tight, and keep them short by weaving them in every few stitches. If floats still show through, your yarn may be too thin or your gauge too loose. Try using slightly thicker yarn or needles one size smaller. You can also block the finished piece gently to even out the fabric and hide small imperfections.
Do I have to use two hands to hold the colors?
No. You can hold both colors in one hand and switch between them, or hold them in separate hands. Two-handed holding is faster once you learn it, but one-handed holding is perfectly fine and many knitters prefer it. Use whatever method feels most comfortable for you.
What is the difference between stranded and intarsia colorwork?
Stranded colorwork carries unused yarn across the back of the work. Intarsia uses separate bobbins of yarn for each color block and twists the yarns together where colors meet. Intarsia is used for large blocks of solid color and is more complex. Stranded is faster and better for small repeating patterns, and is the best starting point for colorwork.