What Double Knitting Is and Why You'd Use It

Double knitting is a technique that produces a reversible fabric with two layers knitted simultaneously on a single needle. You work with two colours of yarn at the same time, alternating between them stitch by stitch. The result is a fabric that looks identical on both sides—one colour dominates the front, the other the back—with no loose floats or carried yarn showing anywhere.

Double knitting is thicker and warmer than single-layer knitting because you're literally making two fabrics at once. It's popular for scarves, blankets, and garments where both sides will be visible, or where you want a reversible piece. The technique also lets you create intricate two-colour patterns without the bulk of traditional stranded colourwork.

The main reason people choose double knitting over other two-colour methods is durability and appearance. Because the yarn is locked into the structure on both sides, the fabric doesn't snag or pull apart the way floats can. And because there's no "wrong side," you can wear a double-knit scarf either way without worrying about how it looks.

Key Takeaways

  • Double knitting uses two yarns worked alternately on every stitch, creating a reversible two-layer fabric on a single needle.
  • You hold one colour in each hand (or both in one hand if you prefer) and switch between them for every stitch, never carrying yarn across rows.
  • The basic stitch pattern is knit with colour A, slip with colour B, then knit with colour B, slip with colour A—repeated across the row.
  • Tension matters more in double knitting than in regular knitting because uneven stitches show on both sides of the finished fabric.
  • Double knitting produces a thick, warm, reversible fabric that works well for scarves, blankets, and any project where appearance matters on both sides.

Setting Up: Yarn, Needles, and Casting On

You'll need two colours of yarn of the same weight. Many double-knitting patterns specify yarn weight explicitly—usually DK (double knitting) weight or worsted, though any weight works as long as both colours match. Cast on using needles one or two sizes larger than you'd normally use for that yarn weight. Double knitting stitches are naturally tight because you're working two yarns into each stitch, so the larger needle prevents the fabric from becoming stiff.

For casting on, use a method that creates a neat edge on both sides. The long-tail cast-on works well, but make sure you're casting on the exact number of stitches your pattern calls for—not double. You're not doubling your stitch count; you're working two yarns into the same stitch space. Arrange your two yarn colours so you can easily pick up either one. Some knitters hold one colour in each hand (one in the right, one in the left), while others hold both in the left hand and pick them up with the right needle. Choose whichever feels natural to you.

Before you start the pattern, knit a few rows in a single colour to get comfortable with the needle size and tension. This warm-up also helps you see how the fabric is forming and whether you need to adjust your tension before you commit to the full project.

The Basic Double-Knitting Stitch Pattern

The foundation of double knitting is a straightforward two-stitch repeat: knit one stitch with colour A, slip one stitch with colour B (without knitting it), then knit one stitch with colour B, slip one stitch with colour A. Repeat this pattern across the entire row. On the return row, you do the same thing—knit the stitches that were slipped on the previous row, and slip the stitches that were knitted.

The slipped stitches are the key. When you slip a stitch, you're moving it from the left needle to the right needle without working it. The yarn colour you're "not using" stays in front of the work when you slip. This locks both colours into the fabric structure and prevents floats from showing on either side. The stitch you knit with one colour becomes part of that colour's layer; the stitch you slip with the other colour becomes part of that layer instead.

Work every row the same way—there is no purl row in basic double knitting. Every row is a knit row with alternating colours and slips. This is what makes the fabric reversible: both sides see the same stitch structure, just with the colours reversed. After a few rows, you'll see the two-layer fabric forming, and the pattern becomes automatic.

Tension and Keeping Stitches Even

Tension is more visible in double knitting than in regular knitting because mistakes show on both sides. If one colour's stitches are looser than the other's, the fabric will look uneven and the layers won't sit flat against each other. The goal is to knit and slip with equal tension so both colours contribute equally to the structure.

Many knitters find their slipped stitches come out looser than their knitted stitches. If this happens to you, tighten slightly when you slip—pull the yarn a little firmer than you do when you knit. You're aiming for stitches that look the same size whether they're knitted or slipped. It takes a few rows to find the right balance, so don't panic if the first inch looks uneven. By the time you've completed a few pattern repeats, your hands will know the rhythm and the tension will even out.

Pay attention to the yarn you're not actively using. When you knit with one colour, the other colour should sit loosely behind the work, ready to be picked up on the next stitch. If you pull it too tight, the fabric will pucker. If you leave it too loose, you'll get gaps between the layers. The yarn should be just taut enough that it moves smoothly from stitch to stitch without creating slack.

Reading Double-Knitting Patterns and Colour Charts

Double-knitting patterns use colour charts that look like regular stranded colourwork charts, but they're read differently. In a double-knitting chart, each square represents two stitches—one knitted and one slipped. A square that's colour A means you knit with A and slip with B; a square that's colour B means you knit with B and slip with A. The chart shows you which colour to knit on each stitch position, and the other colour is automatically slipped.

Read the chart from right to left on odd rows (the rows you knit from right to left) and left to right on even rows (the rows you knit from left to right), just as you would with any knitting pattern. The pattern repeat is usually marked with a box, and you repeat it across the row as many times as your stitch count allows. Some patterns include edge stitches outside the repeat box—work these once at the start and end of each row.

If you're new to double knitting, start with a straightforward two-colour geometric pattern—stripes, checks, or straightforward shapes—before attempting complex motifs. Geometric patterns are forgiving because a mistake in one stitch doesn't disrupt the overall design the way it would in a detailed picture or letter.

Binding Off and Finishing

Bind off using the same alternating pattern you used throughout: knit one stitch with colour A, slip one stitch with colour B, then pass the knitted stitch over the slipped stitch. Continue this way across the row. This creates a bind-off edge that matches the rest of the fabric and looks neat on both sides.

Because double knitting produces a thick fabric, you may find that your bind-off edge is tighter than the rest of the piece. If this happens, use a needle one or two sizes larger for the bind-off row. This keeps the edge from pulling in and distorting the shape of your finished piece.

Weave in ends carefully. Double-knit fabric has two layers, so you have more room to hide yarn ends than in single-layer knitting. Thread the end through the layers using a tapestry needle, running it through several stitches in one layer before bringing it back out. This anchors the end securely without creating a visible bump on either side.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

The most common mistake is knitting both stitches in the repeat instead of knitting one and slipping one. This breaks the pattern and creates a single-layer section in your otherwise reversible fabric. If you catch it within a few rows, you can drop down to the mistake and fix it by picking up the dropped stitch with a crochet hook. If you don't notice until later, you may need to accept it as part of the fabric's character—double knitting is forgiving that way.

Another frequent issue is carrying the yarn too tightly between stitches, which causes puckering. If you see small bunches or dimples in your fabric, loosen your tension slightly when you're not actively knitting or slipping. The yarn should move freely from stitch to stitch without pulling the fabric.

Uneven tension between colours is also normal at first. If one colour looks significantly looser or tighter than the other, adjust your grip slightly. Some knitters find it helps to hold the tighter colour with slightly less tension or the looser colour with slightly more. This is a feel thing—there's no formula, just practice and adjustment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to hold both yarns in my hands at the same time?

No. Some knitters hold one colour in each hand (one in the right, one in the left), while others hold both in the left hand and pick them up with the right needle. Both methods work equally well. Choose whichever feels more comfortable and gives you more consistent tension. Many knitters switch methods depending on the project.

Can I use double knitting for socks or fitted garments?

Yes, but the fabric is thicker than regular knitting, so a double-knit sock will be bulkier inside a shoe. For fitted garments, you'll need to size up because the fabric doesn't stretch as much as single-layer knitting. Always knit a swatch in double knitting and measure it carefully before committing to a garment pattern.

What happens if I drop a stitch in double knitting?

A dropped stitch in double knitting affects both layers, so it's more noticeable than in regular knitting. Pick it up when ready with a crochet hook, working through both layers if needed. If you don't catch it right away, you can still fix it by dropping down a few rows and picking up the stitch, but it's easier to fix while the stitches are still loose.

How much yarn do I need for a double-knitting project?

Double knitting uses roughly twice as much yarn as single-layer knitting because you're working two yarns simultaneously. If a regular knitting pattern calls for 200 yards, expect to use around 400 yards total (200 of each colour) for the same project in double knitting. Always check the pattern for specific yardage requirements.

Can I switch colours mid-project without cutting the yarn?

Yes. You can carry the yarn up the side of your work just as you would in regular knitting, though the edge will be thicker because you're carrying two yarns. For cleaner edges, cut the yarn and weave in the ends, then start fresh with new yarn. This takes more time but produces a neater finished piece.