What an M1 increase is and when to use it

An M1 (make one) is a method of adding a new stitch to your knitting by lifting the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two stitches and knitting into it. Unlike yarn-over increases, which create a visible hole in your fabric, an M1 sits nearly invisible in your work because you are using existing yarn rather than creating a new loop from nothing.

You will see M1 called for in patterns when the designer wants a clean increase that does not draw attention to itself. Shaping the sides of a fitted sweater, narrowing a sleeve cap, or adding stitches in the middle of a stockinette section are all common places where M1 appears. The stitch blends in because it uses yarn that was already there.

There are two versions: M1L (make one left-leaning) and M1R (make one right-leaning). The direction the new stitch leans depends on which way you insert your needle into the lifted strand. A pattern will specify which one to use, usually based on where the increase sits and which direction creates a balanced line of shaping.

Key Takeaways

  • An M1 increase lifts the horizontal strand between two stitches and knits into it, creating a new stitch without a visible hole.
  • M1L and M1R refer to the direction the new stitch leans, determined by whether you insert your needle from front to back or back to front.
  • The lifted strand sits on your left needle after you complete the previous stitch and before you work the next one.
  • Practicing M1 on a swatch in stockinette stitch will show you how cleanly it sits compared to other increase methods.

How to work an M1L (left-leaning increase)

An M1L leans to the left when you look at your finished fabric. To work it, complete the stitch before the increase point and leave your working yarn in front of your work. Using the tip of your left needle, pick up the horizontal strand that runs between the stitch you just completed and the next stitch on your left needle. Lift it from front to back — the strand should sit on your left needle with the front leg closer to you.

Insert your right needle through that lifted strand from back to front (the opposite direction you picked it up), and knit it as you would a normal stitch. The twist created by this entry direction makes the new stitch lean left. Drop the strand from your left needle once you have completed the knit stitch. You now have one more stitch on your right needle than you did before.

How to work an M1R (right-leaning increase)

An M1R leans to the right. The setup is identical to M1L: complete the stitch before the increase, leave your yarn in front, and use your left needle to pick up the horizontal strand between the current stitch and the next one. This time, pick it up from back to front — the front leg of the strand should be farther from you.

Insert your right needle through the lifted strand from front to back and knit it. This opposite entry direction creates the rightward lean. Drop the strand from your left needle. The result is a new stitch that angles to the right in your finished fabric.

Finding and lifting the strand correctly

The hardest part of M1 for new knitters is locating and lifting the strand without accidentally splitting the yarn of an existing stitch. The strand you want is the one that connects the base of the stitch you just completed to the base of the next stitch — it runs horizontally and sits between the two stitches on your needle.

Use the pointed tip of your left needle, not the shaft. Slide the tip under the strand from the direction specified for your M1 version (front to back for M1L, back to front for M1R). Lift gently and place the strand on your left needle. If you have picked up a stitch leg instead of the connecting strand, you will see it clearly — the strand will look thicker or will pull the adjacent stitches. Put it back and try again slightly to the left or right.

On your first few attempts, work M1 on a practice swatch in a straightforward stockinette stitch so you can see exactly what you are lifting. The strand becomes easier to spot once you know what it looks like.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most frequent error is twisting the strand the wrong way when you insert your needle to knit it. If your M1 leans the opposite direction from what the pattern calls for, you reversed the entry direction. Check your pattern again and flip the direction you insert your needle on the next increase.

Another common issue is accidentally splitting the yarn of an existing stitch instead of lifting the strand between stitches. This happens when you insert your needle too far to the left or right. Practice on a swatch and pay attention to where the strand sits — it should be clearly visible as a separate horizontal line, not part of a stitch itself.

Some knitters find that their M1 stitches are tighter than the surrounding stitches. This usually means you are pulling the yarn too hard when you knit the lifted strand. Relax your tension slightly and let the new stitch sit naturally on your needle before you tighten it.

M1 in different stitch patterns

M1 works cleanly in stockinette and garter stitch, where the increase sits flat and blends in. In ribbed patterns, you may need to work the M1 in a way that maintains the rib — your pattern will tell you whether to knit or purl the new stitch to keep the pattern running smoothly.

In textured stitches like cables or lace, M1 is less common because the texture itself often includes intentional increases (like yarn-overs in lace). When M1 does appear in a textured pattern, treat it the same way: lift the strand and knit it in the direction specified. The texture will continue around it.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between M1 and a yarn-over increase?

A yarn-over creates a visible hole in your fabric because you are wrapping yarn around your needle to make a new stitch from nothing. An M1 uses the strand already between two stitches, so no hole appears. Yarn-overs are decorative; M1 is invisible. Use M1 when you want shaping that does not show, and yarn-over when the hole is part of the design.

Can I use M1L and M1R interchangeably?

Not if you want the shaping to look balanced. M1L and M1R lean in opposite directions, and patterns use them on opposite sides of a garment to create a symmetrical line. Using the wrong direction will make the increase line visible and unbalanced. Always follow the pattern's instruction for which version to use.

What if I cannot find the strand to lift?

You may be looking too far to the left or right. The strand sits directly between the base of the stitch you just completed and the base of the next stitch on your needle. If you are having trouble, drop back a few stitches, look at where the strands run between stitches, and try again. A practice swatch will help you see the pattern clearly.

Does M1 work on circular needles the same way as straight needles?

Yes. The mechanics are identical — you lift the strand between two stitches and knit into it. The only difference is that you are working in the round instead of back and forth, but the M1 stitch itself works exactly the same way on both needle types.