What a Purl Stitch Is and Why You Need It

A purl stitch is the reverse of a knit stitch. Where a knit stitch pulls yarn from the back of your work toward the front, a purl stitch pulls yarn from the front toward the back. On the finished fabric, a knit stitch looks like a small V, and a purl stitch looks like a bump or horizontal line. Learning to purl doubles what you can make — ribbed cuffs, textured patterns, and reversible fabrics all depend on switching between knit and purl.

Most knitters learn knit first, then purl. The hand motions are similar enough that the learning curve is gentler than it was for knit, but purl requires you to hold yarn in front of your needles instead of behind them, which feels awkward at first. Once you can purl without thinking, you can read knitting patterns and follow instructions like "knit 2, purl 2" across a row.

Key Takeaways

  • Hold yarn in front of your work for purl, in back for knit — this is the main difference between the two stitches.
  • Insert your right needle from right to left through the stitch on your left needle, with yarn in front.
  • Wrap yarn around your right needle and pull it back through to create a new stitch.
  • Purling every row creates garter stitch, the same bumpy texture as knitting every row.
  • Alternating knit and purl rows creates stockinette stitch, the smooth V-pattern fabric used in most garments.

How to Hold Your Yarn for Purl

Before you insert your needle, move your yarn to the front of your work. If you knit with yarn in your right hand (English style), bring yarn forward between your needles so it sits in front of your left needle. If you knit with yarn in your left hand (Continental style), the yarn is already in front — you do not need to move it. The key is that yarn must be in front of your needles for every purl stitch you make.

Keeping yarn in front is the single biggest difference between knit and purl. Many beginners forget this step and end up with twisted stitches or accidental yarn overs. Before you insert your needle, pause and check: is your yarn in front? This one habit prevents most purl mistakes.

The Four Steps to Make a Purl Stitch

Hold your left needle in your left hand with stitches on it. Hold your right needle in your right hand, empty. Insert the tip of your right needle through the first stitch on your left needle from right to left — that is, from the right side of the stitch toward the left side. Your right needle should pass in front of your left needle, not behind it. This is the opposite direction from a knit stitch.

Wrap yarn around your right needle counterclockwise. If you knit English style, use your right index finger to wrap yarn around the needle tip. If you knit Continental style, use your left index finger to move yarn around the needle. The wrap should go under and around the needle, the same motion as a knit stitch.

Pull your right needle back through the stitch, bringing the wrapped yarn with it. The new stitch slides onto your right needle. Slip the old stitch off your left needle. You have made one purl stitch. Repeat across the row until all stitches have moved from your left needle to your right needle.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

The most common error is forgetting to bring yarn to the front before you purl. If you purl with yarn in back, you create a twisted stitch that looks wrong and is hard to knit into on the next row. Check yarn position before every purl stitch until the habit is automatic.

The second common mistake is inserting your needle in the wrong direction. For purl, insert from right to left (the opposite of knit). If you insert left to right, you twist the stitch. A good way to remember: for knit, needle goes in the direction your stitches are moving (left to right); for purl, needle goes against that direction (right to left).

Loose purl stitches are also normal when you are learning. Purl stitches often look bigger and looser than knit stitches on the same needle. This usually tightens as you practice and develop consistent tension. If your purl stitches are very loose, try wrapping yarn a bit tighter or moving your needle tip more slowly through the stitch.

Purl in Patterns: Garter Stitch and Stockinette

If you purl every row, you create garter stitch — the same bumpy, reversible fabric you get from knitting every row. Garter stitch is thick, warm, and lies flat, which is why it is used for blankets, scarves, and the edges of garments. Because every row looks the same, garter stitch is a good way to practice purl without following a complex pattern.

If you knit one row and purl the next row, you create stockinette stitch — the smooth V-pattern fabric used in most sweaters, hats, and fitted garments. The knit side (called the right side) shows Vs; the purl side (called the wrong side) shows bumps. Stockinette is the foundation of most knitting patterns, so learning to purl smoothly is essential for moving beyond beginner projects.

Switching Between Knit and Purl in the Same Row

Many patterns ask you to knit some stitches and purl others in the same row — for example, "knit 2, purl 2" creates ribbing. The key is moving your yarn to the correct position before each stitch. If you just finished a knit stitch and the next stitch is purl, bring yarn to the front. If you just finished a purl stitch and the next stitch is knit, move yarn to the back.

This yarn movement takes practice. At first, you will move yarn slowly and deliberately. With time, the motion becomes automatic and your knitting speed increases. Many knitters find that switching between knit and purl in the same row is harder than doing a whole row of one stitch, so do not be discouraged if ribbed patterns feel clumsy at first.

Practice Exercises to Build Purl Speed

Cast on 20 stitches and purl every row for 10 rows. This teaches your hands the motion without the distraction of switching stitches. Your purl stitches will likely be uneven at first — some tight, some loose — but they will smooth out as your hands learn the rhythm.

Next, cast on 20 stitches and alternate knit rows and purl rows for 20 rows. This creates stockinette and teaches you to switch between the two stitches. The transition from knit to purl is where most tension problems happen, so this exercise isolates that moment.

Finally, cast on 20 stitches and work "knit 2, purl 2" for 20 rows. This is the hardest exercise because you switch stitches multiple times per row. Once you can do this without thinking about yarn position, you can read and follow most knitting patterns.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do my purl stitches look bigger than my knit stitches?

Purl stitches often appear looser because the yarn path is longer — you are wrapping yarn around the needle from a different angle. This usually evens out as you develop consistent tension. If the difference is very noticeable, try wrapping yarn slightly tighter on purl stitches or practicing until your hands find a natural rhythm.

What if I accidentally purl when I should have knit?

One wrong stitch in a row of stockinette will create a visible bump. If you notice it right away, you can drop the stitch and pick it back up with the correct stitch type. If you do not notice until later, you can either frog (rip back) to that row or leave it — one mistake is usually not noticeable in a finished garment unless you are looking for it.

Do I have to move my yarn between every knit and purl stitch?

Yes. Yarn must be in back for knit and in front for purl. If you skip this step, you create an accidental yarn over (an extra stitch) or a twisted stitch. Moving yarn becomes automatic with practice, but it is a necessary step every time you switch stitch types.

Is purl harder than knit?

Not harder, just different. Most knitters find purl slightly more awkward at first because yarn position is reversed. After a few hours of practice, purl feels as natural as knit. Some knitters actually find purl easier once they understand the motion.