What Double Knitting in the Round Actually Is

Double knitting in the round creates a reversible fabric with two layers that are knitted simultaneously on a single circular needle. Unlike flat double knitting, which requires you to turn your work at the end of each row, knitting in the round means you never turn — you spiral upward continuously, and both the inside and outside of your piece look finished and identical.

The technique uses two colors of yarn held together. On each stitch, you knit one color to the front and slip the other color to the back, then on the next stitch you reverse the roles. This interlocking creates the two-layer structure. The result is a fabric that is thicker, warmer, and fully patterned on both sides — useful for hats, mittens, socks, and cowls where both the inside and outside are visible.

Key Takeaways

  • Double knitting in the round uses two colors held together and alternates between knitting one color to the front and slipping the other to the back on each stitch.
  • You cast on twice the number of stitches you would for a regular project, then separate them into two layers by knitting the first stitch of each pair and slipping the second.
  • The pattern repeats every two stitches: knit the working color, slip the non-working color purlwise with yarn in back.
  • Tension matters more in double knitting than in regular knitting because loose stitches make the two layers separate visibly.
  • Binding off requires a special method to keep both layers even and prevent the edge from curling or puckering.

Casting On for Double Knitting in the Round

Cast on twice the number of stitches your pattern calls for. If your pattern says 60 stitches, cast on 120. Use a long-tail cast-on or any method you are comfortable with — the cast-on itself is not special, only the number is.

After casting on, you need to separate the stitches into two layers. This happens in the first round. Join to the round as you normally would, being careful not to twist. Knit the first stitch with your working color (let's say color A), then slip the next stitch purlwise with yarn in back using color B. Repeat this knit-one-slip-one pattern all the way around. When you finish this round, you have created two distinct layers: one layer of knit stitches in color A and one layer of slipped stitches in color B.

The Core Stitch Pattern for Every Round

Once the layers are separated, the pattern stays the same for every round: knit with the working color, slip the next stitch purlwise with yarn in back. The working color alternates naturally because of how the stitches sit on the needle.

Here is what happens: after you knit a stitch in color A, the next stitch on your needle is a slipped stitch from color B. You slip it purlwise (inserting the needle as if to purl, not as if to knit) with yarn held in back. Then the next stitch is a knit stitch in color B, so you switch to color B and knit it. Then you slip the next stitch (which is color A) purlwise with yarn in back. The colors and the knit-slip rhythm stay locked together.

The key is keeping yarn tension even and consistent. Loose stitches will cause the two layers to separate and look sloppy. Tight stitches will make the fabric stiff. Aim for the same tension you use in regular knitting, but be aware that double knitting fabric is naturally thicker and will feel less stretchy.

Managing Two Colors Without Tangling

Hold one color in each hand — one in your right hand (English style) and one in your left (Continental style), or both in whichever hand feels natural to you. Some knitters hold both colors in the right hand and manage them with their fingers. The goal is to keep the colors separate so you can grab the right one without fumbling.

As you work, the non-working color will sit behind the working stitches. This is correct. Do not try to carry it loosely or weave it in — it is part of the structure. The slipped stitches hold it in place. If you find the colors are tangling, pause and untwist them. This happens most often when you switch colors; a quick counterclockwise twist of your working yarns will usually fix it.

Some knitters use yarn bobbins or small cards to manage two colors, especially if the colors are very different weights. Others straightforward hold both strands and let them sort themselves out. Experiment to find what keeps your hands relaxed and your tension even.

Fixing Common Mistakes Mid-Round

If you knit a stitch that should have been slipped, or slipped a stitch that should have been knit, the mistake will be visible on both layers. The easiest fix for a mistake one or two rounds back is to drop down to that round, fix the stitch, and ladder back up. Because double knitting creates two distinct layers, you can often see the error clearly and correct it without unraveling the entire piece.

If you drop a stitch, pick it up the same way you would in regular knitting, but remember you are working with two layers. The dropped stitch may have a ladder of yarn running through both layers. Use a crochet hook to pull each rung through, working from bottom to top, then place the stitch back on your needle.

If you realize several rounds in that you twisted the cast-on or separated the layers incorrectly, it is usually faster to frog (unravel) back to the cast-on and start the separation round again than to try to fix it mid-piece.

Binding Off Double Knit Fabric

A standard bind-off will make one layer tighter than the other and create an uneven edge. Instead, use a double knit bind-off, which treats both layers equally. The most common method is the Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off or a sewn bind-off.

For a sewn bind-off: cut your yarn, leaving a tail about four times the circumference of your piece. Thread it onto a tapestry needle. Working from left to right, insert the needle through the first stitch as if to knit, then through the second stitch as if to purl. Slip the first stitch off the needle. Repeat this pattern all the way around. This method keeps both layers even and creates a flexible edge that will not curl.

If you prefer a knitted bind-off, work two stitches together (knit two together) using both colors at once, then pass the first stitch over the second. This is slower but creates a similar effect. The key is treating the two layers as a unit rather than binding off one layer and then the other.

Weaving in Ends Without Unraveling the Layers

Because double knitting creates two layers, weaving in ends is trickier than in regular knitting. If you weave an end through the middle of a stitch, you risk splitting the two layers or creating a visible line.

The safest method is to weave the end along the edge of the piece, running it through the bumps on the side of several stitches. This keeps it hidden between the two layers. Alternatively, weave it horizontally through the purl bumps on the inside of one layer only, staying in that layer and not crossing into the other.

Leave your ends at least 4 inches long and weave them in slowly, checking the other side of the fabric as you go to make sure they are not visible. Because the fabric is thick, ends can shift more easily than in regular knitting, so weave them in extra securely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use the same color twice instead of two different colors?

Yes, but you will lose the visual pattern. The two layers will be identical in color, and the fabric will look like regular stockinette from the outside. Some knitters do this intentionally for a straightforward reversible fabric, but most double knitting patterns use two colors specifically to create a pattern that shows on both sides.

What happens if I accidentally knit both stitches instead of knitting one and slipping one?

You will have broken the pattern and created a hole or a twisted section. If you catch it within a few stitches, drop back down to that point and fix it. If you do not notice until several rounds later, you may need to frog back to the mistake and start again, because the two layers will no longer be aligned.

Is double knitting in the round harder than flat double knitting?

It is different rather than harder. In the round, you never turn your work, so you do not have to manage the color changes that happen at the end of rows. However, you do have to keep track of which color is working on each stitch, and the circular needle can feel crowded if you are working a small circumference. Most knitters find one-directional motion (always going forward) easier than turning.

How do I fix a twisted stitch in double knitting?

A twisted stitch will show as a crossed X instead of a V. In double knitting, this affects both layers. If you catch it on the same round, you can drop the stitch, untwist it, and place it back on the needle. If it is several rounds back, use a crochet hook to ladder down to that stitch, fix the twist, and ladder back up.

Can I change colors mid-project in double knitting in the round?

Yes, but plan the change carefully. The best place to change colors is at the beginning of a round, where you can straightforward pick up the new color and continue. Changing colors mid-round will create a visible jog at the color change point on both layers. If your pattern calls for a color change, check the pattern notes for where the designer intended the change to happen.