What Double Knit Stitch Is and Why You'd Use It

Double knit is a reversible fabric where you knit two layers at once using two colors of yarn, creating a thick, structured cloth that looks intentional and finished on both sides. Unlike Fair Isle or stranded colorwork, where you carry yarn across the back, double knit traps both colors inside the fabric itself. The result is a scarf, blanket, or garment that shows a different color on each face—one side might be red with blue details, while the reverse is blue with red details.

You use double knit when you want a warm, durable fabric that doesn't require seaming, when you need something that looks polished from every angle, or when you're making a reversible piece where both sides matter equally. It's thicker than single-layer knitting and uses yarn faster, but the structure is surprisingly stable and forgiving once you understand the rhythm.

Key Takeaways

  • Double knit uses two colors of yarn held together and requires slipping stitches in a specific pattern to trap both colors inside the fabric.
  • You work on a needle size one or two sizes larger than your yarn normally calls for, because you're managing twice the yarn weight.
  • The basic pattern repeats every two rows: knit one color while slipping the other, then knit the second color while slipping the first.
  • Tension matters more in double knit than in regular knitting because loose stitches will let the trapped yarn show through on the wrong side.
  • Most double knit patterns are charted in two colors, and you read them the same way you would a Fair Isle chart, but the execution is completely different.

Setting Up: Yarn, Needles, and Casting On

Start with two colors of yarn in the same weight—worsted weight or DK weight are easiest to learn with. Hold both strands together as one and cast on using your normal method. If your pattern calls for 60 stitches in single-layer knitting, cast on 60 stitches using both yarns held as one. The cast-on edge will be thicker than you're used to, and that's correct.

Choose a needle size one or two sizes larger than the yarn label recommends for single-layer knitting. If your yarn usually calls for US 6 needles, try US 7 or 8 for double knit. The larger needle prevents the fabric from becoming stiff and dense. Knit a few rows with both colors held together to get a feel for the weight before you start the actual pattern.

Once you've cast on and knitted a few rows, you'll separate the two colors and begin the double knit pattern. Some knitters tie a small knot or use a stitch marker to keep track of which color is which, especially if the colors are similar.

The Basic Double Knit Pattern: Knit and Slip

The core of double knit is this: on every row, you knit one color while slipping the other color. The slipped stitches sit on top of the knitted stitches, and when you work the next row, you knit what was slipped and slip what was knitted. This back-and-forth traps both colors inside the fabric.

Here's the actual sequence for Row 1: Knit one stitch with Color A, slip one stitch with Color B (yarn in front), repeat across the row. When you slip, bring the yarn to the front of your work before you slip the stitch, then take it back to the working side. This creates the trapped layer.

For Row 2, reverse it: Slip one stitch with Color A (yarn in front), knit one stitch with Color B, repeat across the row. After you slip the Color A stitch, bring the yarn back to the working side before you knit the Color B stitch. The rhythm becomes: knit, slip-yarn-front, slip-yarn-back, knit, slip-yarn-front, slip-yarn-back. Once your hands learn it, the pattern moves quickly.

Every two rows completes one cycle. The fabric grows slowly because you're only knitting half the stitches per row, but the density builds fast. After four rows, you'll see the two-color pattern emerging on both sides of the fabric.

Reading a Double Knit Chart and Keeping Track of Colors

Most double knit patterns come as two-color charts, similar to Fair Isle charts. Each square represents one stitch, and the color of the square tells you which yarn to knit with on that stitch. The other color gets slipped. If the chart shows a red square, knit red and slip blue. If it shows blue, knit blue and slip red.

The chart is read differently than Fair Isle, though. In Fair Isle, you read every stitch on every row. In double knit, you read only the stitches you're knitting on that row—the slipped stitches are determined automatically by the pattern structure. A straightforward two-color chart might show a checkerboard, a stripe, or a geometric motif. Start with a straightforward pattern before attempting anything with many color changes in a single row.

Mark your place on the chart with a ruler or magnetic strip so you don't lose your row. Double knit rows go slowly enough that it's straightforward to knit two rows past where you meant to stop if you're not watching the chart carefully. Some knitters print the chart and cross off each row as they finish it.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Loose slipped stitches are the most common problem. If you slip too loosely, the trapped yarn will peek through on the reverse side and the fabric will look sloppy. Tension your slipped stitches the same way you tension your knitted stitches—snug but not strangled. If your slipped stitches are consistently loose, try moving your working yarn closer to the needle before you slip.

Forgetting to move the yarn between knit and slip is the second most common error. If you knit a stitch and then slip the next stitch without bringing the yarn to the front, the slipped stitch will be twisted and the pattern won't line up. Develop a habit: after you knit, bring the yarn forward. After you slip, take the yarn back. Say it out loud the first few times if that helps.

Uneven tension between the two colors happens when one yarn is held tighter than the other. Both colors should feel equally weighted in your hand. If one color is consistently looser, you may be holding it farther from the needle tip. Adjust your grip so both strands sit at the same distance from your working needle.

Twisting stitches at the edges occurs when you slip the first stitch of the row. Always slip the first stitch purlwise (from right to left) to keep it flat. This is the same rule as in regular knitting and matters even more in double knit because the edge stitches are visible on both sides.

Binding Off Double Knit Fabric

Bind off using both colors held together, just as you cast on. Work your normal bind-off method—knit two, pass the first over the second, knit one, pass the first over the second, and so on. The bind-off edge will be thick and stable, matching the cast-on edge. Some knitters prefer a stretchy bind-off like the Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off because it prevents the edge from puckering.

If your pattern requires a specific bind-off in a specific color, follow the pattern instructions. Most patterns that use double knit throughout will specify a two-color bind-off, but some pieces use double knit for the body and switch to single-layer knitting for the final edge.

Finishing and Blocking Double Knit Pieces

Double knit fabric is sturdy and doesn't require much finishing. Weave in your ends on both sides of the fabric—don't just weave them into one layer, or they'll be visible on the reverse. Block your piece gently with steam or wet blocking, depending on your yarn fiber. The fabric will relax slightly and the pattern will become sharper.

Because double knit is reversible, you can wear a scarf or cowl either way, and both sides will look intentional. If you're making a garment, seaming is minimal because the edges are already finished. Some double knit garments are designed to be worn inside-out on purpose, so check your pattern to see if there's a preferred side.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to use two separate balls of yarn or can I use one skein with two strands?

You can use one skein with two strands pulled from opposite ends, but it's easier to manage two separate balls. One ball per color prevents tangling and makes it simpler to keep tension even. If you use one skein, wind it into two balls first.

What happens if I drop a stitch in double knit?

A dropped stitch in double knit is trickier to fix than in single-layer knitting because you have two layers to manage. If you notice it when ready, pick it up with a crochet hook and find both the knitted stitch and the slipped stitch above it. If it's several rows down, you may need to ladder down both layers separately. Prevent this by being extra careful when you slip stitches.

Can I make a double knit pattern with more than two colors?

True double knit uses only two colors per row because you're trapping one color inside while knitting the other. You can change which two colors you use on different rows, creating a multi-color effect, but you're still working with only two colors at a time. This is sometimes called multi-color double knit.

How much yarn do I need for a double knit project?

Double knit uses roughly twice as much yarn as single-layer knitting because you're knitting two layers. If a single-layer pattern calls for 400 yards, plan for 800 yards total—400 of each color. Check your pattern for the exact yardage, as some patterns are designed to be more efficient.

Is double knit harder than Fair Isle colorwork?

Double knit and Fair Isle are different skills, not harder or easier. Fair Isle requires managing two colors in one hand and keeping tension even across color changes. Double knit requires learning the knit-and-slip rhythm and keeping track of which color goes where. Most knitters find double knit easier once they understand the pattern because there's no tension juggling—you're just knitting and slipping in a predictable sequence.