Embroidery turns a finished knit into something entirely new

You can embroider directly onto knitted fabric after you've finished knitting. The stitches in your knit create a natural grid that guides your needle, making embroidery easier on knit than on woven cloth. You use a regular embroidery needle and thread, work from the back or front depending on the stitch, and anchor your thread into the knit structure itself rather than trying to pierce individual yarns.

The main difference from embroidering on woven fabric is that knit stitches are loops, not a tight weave. This means your embroidery needle can slip between those loops, and your embroidery thread sits on top of the knit rather than sinking into it. The result is embroidery that has real dimension and catches light differently than the knit beneath it.

Key Takeaways

  • Embroidery on knit works best on finished, blocked pieces because the fabric is stable and you can see the stitch structure clearly.
  • Use a blunt embroidery needle (tapestry needle) to avoid splitting the knit yarn, and thread it with embroidery floss or yarn depending on the scale of your design.
  • Anchor your thread by weaving it through existing knit stitches on the back of the fabric, not by making knots that can pull through.
  • Common embroidery stitches like backstitch, stem stitch, and French knots all work on knit, but you follow the knit grid rather than drawing a line.
  • Practice on a swatch or an area you don't mind reworking, because pulling out embroidery thread from knit can catch and damage the knit stitches underneath.

Choose the right needle and thread for your knit weight

A blunt embroidery needle (also called a tapestry needle) is essential. The rounded tip slides between knit loops without splitting the yarn. A sharp needle will catch and fray the knit stitches. Size 18, 20, or 22 tapestry needles work for most knits—smaller needles for fingering-weight yarn, larger ones for bulky knits.

For thread, you have two main choices. Embroidery floss (six-strand cotton) is the standard and comes in hundreds of colors. You can use all six strands for bold coverage or separate them into two or three strands for finer detail. Yarn works too if you want the embroidery to blend with or match your knit—use a weight similar to or slightly lighter than your knit yarn. Avoid thread that's much thicker than your knit, because it will pucker the fabric.

Test your needle and thread on a knit swatch first. The needle should glide through the spaces between stitches without resistance, and the thread should sit on top of the knit without sinking in or pulling the fabric.

Anchor your thread without knots

Knots don't work on knit because they can slip through the loops and pull out. Instead, weave your thread through the back of existing knit stitches for about an inch before you begin embroidering. This anchors the thread in the knit structure itself. Bring your needle up through the fabric where you want to start your embroidery, and you're ready to stitch.

When you finish a section of embroidery, weave the thread back through the knit stitches on the wrong side again for about an inch, then trim it close. The thread will stay put because it's locked into the knit loops, not held by a knot.

If you're working with yarn instead of floss, weave it through even more stitches—two inches or more—because thicker thread needs more grip to stay anchored.

Follow the knit grid with backstitch and stem stitch

Backstitch is the most straightforward embroidery stitch on knit. Bring your needle up at the base of a knit stitch, go back down one stitch to the right, then come up one stitch to the left of where you started. This creates a solid line that follows the knit columns. The knit grid acts as your guide—you don't need to draw a line first.

Stem stitch creates a thicker, rounder line and works well for outlines. Bring your needle up, go down at an angle one stitch ahead and to the right, then come up halfway between those two points. The thread always stays on the same side of the needle as you work. On knit, each stitch should span about one knit stitch horizontally and one row vertically.

Both stitches follow the natural grid of your knit. If your design calls for a diagonal line, you can angle your stitches by going up and over the knit stitches at an angle, but the knit structure will always show through and influence the line's appearance. This is part of the charm—embroidery on knit has a slightly pixelated quality that's different from embroidery on smooth fabric.

Add texture with French knots and satin stitch

French knots add dimension and work beautifully on knit. Bring your needle up through the fabric, wrap the thread around the needle once or twice, then push the needle back down right next to (but not through) the hole you came up from. The wraps create a small knot on the surface. On knit, French knots sit on top of the fabric and catch light, making them look almost three-dimensional.

Satin stitch fills in shapes with parallel lines of thread. On knit, work satin stitch by bringing your needle up at one edge of the shape and down at the opposite edge, then come back up right next to your first stitch. Each stitch spans the width of the shape. The knit stitches underneath will show through slightly, which softens the effect compared to satin stitch on woven fabric.

Both stitches work best on finished, blocked knit because the fabric is stable and won't shift as you work. If your knit is still stretchy or unblocked, the stitches may pucker or pull unevenly.

Block your knit before you embroider

Blocking sets the shape of your knit and makes the stitch structure visible and even. Wet-block by soaking your finished knit in cool water with a gentle wool wash, squeeze out excess water (don't wring), and pin it to shape on a blocking board or towel. Let it dry completely—usually 24 to 48 hours. The blocked knit will be stable, and you'll be able to see exactly where each stitch is.

Blocking also evens out tension inconsistencies, which matters for embroidery because uneven knit stitches make it harder to follow a straight line. If you try to embroider on unblocked knit, the fabric may shift under your needle, and your embroidery may look crooked once the knit relaxes later.

If your knit is made from a fiber that doesn't need blocking (like acrylic), at least steam-block it lightly or lay it flat and let it settle for a few hours before you start embroidering.

Plan your design and mark lightly if needed

straightforward designs—a line, a small motif, a border—don't need marking. You can follow the knit grid by eye. For more complex designs, you can lightly mark the knit with a water-soluble pen or tailor's chalk. Draw your design on the blocked knit, then embroider over the marks. The marks will disappear when you wet the finished piece or fade on their own.

Alternatively, you can print your design on tissue paper, pin it to the knit, embroider through both the paper and the knit, then tear away the paper when you're done. This method works well for designs with lots of detail because the paper acts as a guide.

Test any marking method on a swatch first. Some pens or chalk can stain knit if left too long, and some won't wash out completely from certain fibers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I embroider on knit that's still on the needles?

It's possible but awkward. The knit will be stretchy and unstable, and your embroidery may pucker or pull unevenly. Finish and block your knit first so the fabric is set and you can see the stitch structure clearly. Embroidery on finished knit takes the same amount of time and produces much better results.

What happens if I pull too hard on the embroidery thread?

You can catch and damage the knit stitches underneath. Keep tension loose and even—the thread should sit on top of the knit without pulling the fabric. If you accidentally catch a knit stitch, stop and gently work the embroidery thread free. If you damage the knit, you may need to rip back and reknit that section, which is why practicing on a swatch first is worth the time.

Can I embroider on a knit garment that's already being worn?

Yes, but you'll need to work carefully around seams and avoid areas under stress (like armholes or necklines). Block the garment flat before you start, and embroider on a section you can lay flat on a table. Avoid embroidering over seams because the seam thread can catch your embroidery needle and create bulk.

What if my embroidery thread keeps shredding?

Your needle is probably too sharp or too small. Switch to a blunt tapestry needle one size larger, and make sure you're not pulling the thread too tight. If you're using embroidery floss, you may be using all six strands when two or three would work better—thinner thread is less likely to shred on knit.

Can I wash a knit piece after embroidering it?

Yes, but hand-wash gently in cool water with mild soap. Avoid agitation and wringing. Embroidery floss is colorfast in most cases, but test a small area first if you're using an unusual color or brand. Lay the piece flat to dry. If you used yarn for embroidery, make sure it's the same fiber as your knit so it will hold up to the same washing method.