Cast off your stitches to close the crown
The most common way to finish a hat is to cast off — bind off your stitches so they don't unravel. When you reach the top of your hat and have only a small number of stitches left (usually 8 to 16), you'll work a final decrease round to bring them down further, then thread your yarn through all remaining stitches with a tapestry needle and pull tight to close the crown.
To do this: cut your yarn leaving a tail 6 to 8 inches long, thread it through your tapestry needle, and insert the needle through each stitch on your needles from front to back. Slip the stitches off your needles as you go. Once all stitches are on the yarn, pull the yarn tight to cinch the opening closed. This creates a neat, gathered top that sits flat against the wearer's head.
If your pattern calls for a different cast-off method — like a three-needle bind-off for a seamed hat or a stretchy bind-off for the brim — follow those instructions instead. The pattern will tell you which method works best for the hat's design.
Key Takeaways
- Thread your remaining stitches onto yarn with a tapestry needle and pull tight to close the crown, which is the standard finish for most hats.
- Weave in loose ends on the inside of the hat using a tapestry needle, working the yarn through nearby stitches for at least an inch.
- Block your finished hat by stretching it over a hat form or bowl and letting it dry, which evens out uneven stitches and sets the shape.
- Seam side edges if your pattern requires it, using mattress stitch or backstitch to join the two edges with nearly invisible seams.
- Check that your brim lies flat and your crown sits centered before you consider the hat finished.
Weave in your yarn ends so they stay hidden
After you've closed the crown, you'll have at least two loose yarn tails: one from casting off the crown and one from casting on at the brim. Use your tapestry needle to weave these ends through the stitches on the inside of the hat, working horizontally or diagonally through nearby rows for at least an inch. This anchors the yarn so it won't pull loose when the hat is worn and washed.
Work slowly and deliberately. If you weave too loosely, the end will slip out later. If you weave too tightly, you'll pucker the fabric. Aim for the same tension you used for your regular knitting. When you've woven the tail through enough stitches, trim it close to the fabric — it should disappear into the knit.
If your hat has a seam (because you knit it flat and seamed the sides), you'll have additional ends where you joined new yarn or changed colors. Weave these in the same way, working them into the seam allowance or nearby stitches on the inside.
Seam the sides if you knit your hat flat
If your pattern called for knitting a flat rectangle and then seaming the sides together, you'll join those edges now using mattress stitch or backstitch. Mattress stitch creates an invisible seam and is the preferred method for most hats because the seam sits inside and doesn't show on the outside.
To use mattress stitch: thread your tapestry needle with a length of yarn (you can use the same yarn as your hat or a matching color). Place your two edges side by side with the right sides facing out. Insert your needle under the horizontal bar between the first and second stitch on one edge, then under the corresponding bar on the other edge. Continue alternating sides, pulling the yarn snug every few stitches so the seam draws the edges together. The seam will be nearly invisible from the outside.
If your pattern specifies backstitch instead, work from the inside of the hat with the wrong sides facing each other. Insert your needle through both layers, one stitch in from the edge, and work a line of small stitches along the seam line. Backstitch is faster but slightly more visible, so use it only if your pattern directs you to.
Block your hat to even out the stitches and set the shape
Blocking is optional but recommended, especially if your hat has uneven stitches or a wavy brim. Wet blocking — soaking your finished hat and stretching it into shape while it dries — evens out tension and sets the yarn so it holds its shape better.
To block: fill a sink or basin with cool water and add a small amount of wool wash or gentle detergent. Submerge your hat and let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes. Gently squeeze the soapy water through the fabric without wringing or twisting. Drain the sink, rinse the hat under cool running water until the water runs clear, then gently squeeze out excess water. Lay the hat flat on a towel or drape it over a hat form, bowl, or stretcher block. Smooth out any wrinkles and let it dry completely, which usually takes 24 to 48 hours depending on the yarn weight and humidity.
If your yarn is delicate or the pattern warns against blocking, skip this step. Some yarns — particularly those with synthetic fibers or special finishes — can lose their texture or sheen if blocked.
Check the fit and appearance before you wear it
Before you declare your hat finished, try it on or hold it up to check the fit and look. The crown should sit centered on the head, the brim should lie flat without rolling or curling, and any seams should be straight and even. If the brim curls, you may need to block it again or add a ribbed edge on your next hat.
Look at the inside as well. All yarn ends should be woven in and hidden, and any seams should be smooth without puckering. If you see a loose end or a seam that's pulling, fix it now before the hat is worn. A few minutes of adjustment now prevents frustration later.
If the hat is for someone else, have them try it on if possible. A hat that's too tight will be uncomfortable, and one that's too loose will slip down. If the fit is off, you may need to unravel and reknit the crown or brim — not ideal, but better than giving a hat that doesn't work.
Add a lining or band if your pattern calls for it
Some hat patterns include a lining — a second layer of fabric on the inside for warmth or to hide the inside texture — or a ribbed band at the brim for extra stretch and durability. If your pattern includes these steps, do them after you've woven in your ends but before you block.
A lining is usually knit separately and then sewn to the inside of the hat using whip stitch or backstitch. A ribbed band is typically picked up from the cast-on edge and knit downward, then cast off. Follow your pattern's instructions for the order and method, as this varies by design.
If your pattern doesn't mention a lining or band, you don't need to add one. These are optional finishing touches that some patterns use and others don't.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do I do if I run out of yarn before I reach the crown?
You can join a new length of yarn by tying a knot or using a weaver's knot, then continue knitting. Weave in both ends later. If you're very close to the end and don't have enough yarn to finish, you can unravel a few rows from the brim, tie on new yarn there, and reknit those rows — it's tedious but saves the hat.
Can I use a crochet hook instead of a tapestry needle to close the crown?
Yes. A crochet hook works well for threading yarn through stitches and can be faster than a tapestry needle. Use a hook size close to your needle size so it doesn't split the yarn or leave holes. The result is the same either way.
How tight should I pull when I'm closing the crown?
Pull snug enough that the opening closes completely and doesn't leave a hole, but not so tight that you pucker the fabric around the crown. If the crown looks gathered or wrinkled, you've pulled too hard. Aim for the same tension as your regular knitting.
Do I have to block my hat?
No, blocking is optional. If your hat looks even and the brim lies flat, you can skip it. Blocking is most useful if you have tension issues, a curling brim, or a yarn that benefits from shaping — like linen or cotton. Delicate or specialty yarns may not need or want blocking.
What if my seam is lumpy or uneven?
Uneven seams usually mean you're pulling too tight or too loose as you work. Try again with more consistent tension, or use a smaller needle for seaming so you can make smaller, more controlled stitches. If the seam is already done and you're unhappy with it, you can carefully unravel it and redo it.