What you can fix yourself and when to stop

Most sweater damage falls into three categories: small holes or tears, dropped stitches, and pilling. Small holes under half an inch, dropped stitches near the edge, and surface pilling are all repairs you can handle at home with basic tools and a little patience. Larger tears, damage to the ribbing at cuffs or hem, and structural problems like multiple dropped stitches in the middle of the garment usually need a professional hand-knitter or tailor, because the fix requires unraveling and re-knitting sections that hold the sweater's shape.

The key difference is whether the damage affects the sweater's ability to hold together. A small hole in the body can be darned. A tear that runs along a seam or a dropped stitch that's traveled down several rows is harder to fix invisibly and may weaken the fabric further if you try. Know your limits before you start—a bad repair can make the damage worse and more expensive to fix professionally.

Key Takeaways

  • Small holes under half an inch can be darned with a needle and matching yarn using a straightforward weaving stitch that blends with the knit pattern.
  • Dropped stitches near the edge or cuff can be picked up with a crochet hook and secured back into the row without unraveling the whole sweater.
  • Pilling—the fuzzy balls that form on the surface—can be removed with a sweater stone, lint roller, or fine-tooth comb without damaging the knit.
  • Larger tears, damage along seams, and dropped stitches that have traveled multiple rows should go to a professional hand-knitter or tailor.
  • Always test any repair method on a hidden area first, and use yarn that matches the sweater's fiber content and weight as closely as possible.

Darning a small hole or tear

Darning is the standard repair for small holes in knitted fabric. You'll need a needle (tapestry needle or embroidery needle), matching yarn, and scissors. Thread the needle with a length of yarn about 18 inches long—longer than you think you need, because you'll be weaving back and forth.

Start by anchoring your yarn on the underside of the sweater, about a quarter inch away from the hole. Weave the needle horizontally across the hole in parallel lines, going over and under the existing stitches on either side. Once you've filled the hole horizontally, turn 90 degrees and weave vertically across those horizontal lines, going over where you went under before. This creates a tight grid that fills the gap. Tie off the yarn on the underside with a small knot, and trim the excess.

The repair will be visible up close, but it will hold. If the hole is in a high-visibility spot like the front chest, consider whether you want the darn to show or whether a professional patch would look better. For holes on the back or under the arm, darning is usually invisible from a distance.

Picking up a dropped stitch

A dropped stitch is a loop that has slipped out of the knit and is unraveling downward. The sooner you catch it, the easier it is to fix. If it's only dropped one or two rows, you can pick it back up yourself with a crochet hook.

Insert the crochet hook through the dropped loop from front to back. Catch the horizontal strand of yarn that sits above the loop (the strand that should have been holding it), and pull it back through the loop. Repeat this for each row the stitch has dropped. Once you've worked your way back up to the current row, insert the loop back onto the knitting needle or find it by weaving the yarn tail through the surrounding stitches with a tapestry needle.

If the stitch has dropped more than three or four rows, or if it's in the middle of a complex stitch pattern, stop and take it to a professional. Trying to pick up a stitch that's traveled too far risks creating new holes or unraveling more of the sweater.

Removing pilling without damaging the knit

Pilling is the formation of small fuzzy balls on the surface of the sweater, usually from friction or wear. It's not damage to the knit itself—it's loose fibers that have tangled together. You have three safe ways to remove it.

A sweater stone (also called a fabric comb or lint remover) is a pumice-like block designed specifically for this. Lay the sweater flat on a table, and gently rub the pilled area in one direction with light pressure. The stone will catch the pills and pull them away without cutting the yarn. A fine-tooth comb or old toothbrush works similarly—rub gently in one direction until the pills come loose.

A lint roller is the quickest method for light pilling. Roll it over the affected area as you would on clothing. Avoid razors or scissors, which can cut the yarn and create actual holes. Once you've removed the pills, the sweater will look refreshed, though the area may feel slightly softer because you've removed some of the fiber.

Repairing a seam that's come loose

Seams on sweaters are usually sewn with a needle and thread or yarn after the pieces are knitted. If a seam is separating, you can re-stitch it if the damage is short (under two inches) and the yarn or thread is still intact on both sides.

Use a tapestry needle and matching yarn or thread. Starting about half an inch before the gap, insert the needle through the loop of the stitch on one side of the seam, then through the corresponding stitch on the other side. Work your way along the seam with small, tight stitches, pulling snug but not so tight that you pucker the fabric. Once you've passed the gap by half an inch, tie off the yarn on the inside and trim.

If the seam has separated more than two inches, or if the original stitches are broken or missing, a tailor should re-do the seam properly. A partial repair can look lumpy and may separate again.

Preventing future damage

Most sweater damage comes from washing, storage, or wear. Wash your sweater in cold water on a gentle cycle or by hand, and lay it flat to dry rather than hanging it. Hanging stretches the shoulders and can cause seams to separate over time. Store sweaters folded in a drawer or on a shelf, not on hangers. Use cedar blocks or lavender sachets to deter moths, which can create holes in wool and other natural fibers.

Pilling is harder to prevent but less serious. It happens naturally on sweaters made from shorter fibers or lower-quality yarn. Washing less frequently and avoiding friction (like rubbing against rough surfaces or backpacks) slows it down. Once it starts, regular gentle combing keeps it under control.

When to take it to a professional

A hand-knitter or tailor can fix almost any sweater damage, but the cost depends on the repair. Small darns or seam repairs usually cost between $20 and $50. Larger repairs—re-knitting a section, fixing multiple dropped stitches, or replacing a cuff—can run $75 to $150 or more, depending on the sweater's fiber and the complexity of the pattern.

If the sweater is expensive, sentimental, or made from specialty yarn, professional repair is worth the cost. If the sweater cost less than the repair, you'll have to decide whether you want to keep it. Look for a tailor or hand-knitter in your area by searching "hand-knit repair" or "sweater repair" plus your city, or ask at a local yarn shop for a recommendation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use any yarn to darn a hole?

No. Use yarn that matches the sweater's fiber content (wool, cotton, acrylic, etc.) and weight as closely as possible. Mismatched yarn will show, feel different, and may not hold the same way. If you don't have the original yarn, ask a yarn shop for a close match, or unravel a seam or hem to get yarn from the sweater itself.

What's the difference between a dropped stitch and a run?

A dropped stitch is a single loop that has come loose and is unraveling downward in one column. A run is when multiple stitches unravel at once, creating a ladder-like gap. Runs are harder to fix at home and usually need professional help. Dropped stitches can often be picked up yourself if caught early.

Will darning make the sweater weaker in that spot?

A well-done darn is as strong as the original knit, but it will feel slightly stiffer because the darned area has extra yarn density. The repair will hold through normal wear and washing. If you darn over a hole that's still growing or if the surrounding fabric is weak, the darn may not last.

Can I use a washing machine on a sweater with a fresh repair?

Yes, but wait at least 24 hours after darning or re-stitching a seam. Use cold water, gentle cycle, and lay it flat to dry. The repair will hold through washing, but gentle handling extends its life. Avoid the dryer and high heat.

Is it worth repairing a sweater that's already old or worn?

That depends on the sweater's value to you. If it's sentimental or expensive, repair makes sense. If it's showing multiple signs of age—thin spots, pilling everywhere, stretched out—a single repair may not be worth the cost. A professional can tell you whether the sweater is worth saving after you describe the damage.