Identify the type of hole before you repair it

A hole in knitting happens for one of three reasons: a dropped stitch that unraveled downward, a broken yarn that split or snapped mid-project, or a moth hole or snag that tore the fabric. The repair method depends entirely on which one you have. A dropped stitch can be picked up and secured. A broken yarn needs the ends woven in or the section re-knit. A tear or moth hole requires patching or darning.

Look at the hole closely. If you see a vertical ladder of loose loops running downward from the hole, you have a dropped stitch. If the yarn straightforward ends or shows a break, you have a broken yarn. If the fabric is torn but the yarn itself is intact, you have a snag or moth hole.

Key Takeaways

  • A dropped stitch creates a ladder of loose loops and can be picked up with a crochet hook and secured row by row.
  • A broken yarn requires you to weave in the loose ends or unravel back to the break and re-knit that section.
  • A snag or moth hole in otherwise intact yarn is best repaired by darning or patching from the inside.
  • For small holes in finished garments, duplicate stitch (embroidery over the existing stitches) is the fastest invisible repair.
  • Holes near seams or edges are easier to hide than holes in the center of a visible panel.

How to pick up and find a dropped stitch

A dropped stitch is the easiest hole to fix if you catch it before too many rows have unraveled. You will need a crochet hook one size smaller than your knitting needles and a length of yarn that matches your project.

Insert the crochet hook through the dropped stitch from front to back. Catch the horizontal strand of yarn directly above it and pull it through the loop on your hook. Repeat this for every row between the dropped stitch and the current row. Each time you pull a strand through, you are re-creating one row of stitches. Once you reach the top, place the loop back on your knitting needle and continue knitting normally.

If the dropped stitch has unraveled many rows, work slowly and keep the loop on your hook tight so it does not slip off sideways. If you drop the loop, start over from the bottom—it is faster than trying to fish it out mid-ladder.

Repair a broken yarn by weaving in or re-knitting

If the yarn broke during knitting, you have two options: weave in the loose ends if the break is near the edge of the piece, or unravel back to the break and re-knit that section if it is in the middle.

For a break near an edge or seam, thread the loose end onto a tapestry needle and weave it through the bumps on the back of the stitches for at least 2 inches in one direction. Tie a small knot, then weave the other loose end in the opposite direction for another 2 inches. Trim the excess yarn close to the fabric. This method works best on pieces you will seam together, because the woven-in ends will be hidden.

For a break in the middle of a visible panel, unravel the knitting back to the break, tie the two broken ends together with a square knot, and re-knit forward. The knot will sit inside the fabric and be invisible from the front. Once you finish re-knitting, weave in both ends of the knot on the back side.

Darn a snag or moth hole with matching yarn

A snag or moth hole tears the fabric but leaves the yarn structure mostly intact. Darning works by weaving new yarn through the existing stitches to close the gap. You will need a tapestry needle, matching yarn, and scissors.

Thread the tapestry needle with a length of yarn about 18 inches long. Starting from the back of the fabric, bring the needle up through a stitch about half an inch to the left of the hole. Weave the needle horizontally across the hole, going over and under the existing stitches in the same pattern they already follow. When you reach the right side, go down through a stitch and come back up one row below. Weave back across the hole in the opposite direction, filling in the gaps you left on the first pass.

Continue this back-and-forth motion until the hole is completely covered. The new yarn should follow the grain of the knit fabric so the repair blends in. Weave in the loose ends on the back side and trim.

Use duplicate stitch for small holes in finished garments

Duplicate stitch is embroidery worked directly over the existing stitches of your knitting. It is the fastest way to hide a small hole in a finished piece because you do not have to unravel anything.

Thread a tapestry needle with matching yarn. Starting from the back, bring the needle up through the base of the stitch directly below the hole. Follow the path of that stitch by going up and to the right, then down and to the left, tracing the V-shape of the knit stitch. Pull the needle through and move to the next stitch. Repeat until the hole is covered.

Duplicate stitch works best on holes smaller than a quarter-inch and on solid-colored yarn. On variegated or textured yarn, the new stitches may be visible because the color or texture will not match exactly. For those cases, darning is a better choice.

Patch a large hole from the inside

A hole larger than half an inch is too big to darn invisibly. A patch is more durable and less noticeable than a large darned area.

Cut a piece of matching knit fabric (or a scrap from your yarn) about an inch larger than the hole on all sides. Pin it to the back of the garment, centered over the hole. Using a tapestry needle and matching yarn, whip stitch around the edges of the patch, going through both the patch and the garment fabric. Make your stitches small and close together so the patch does not fray or pull away.

From the front, the hole will be covered by the patch on the back side. The patch will be invisible unless someone looks at the inside of the garment. This method works well for holes in areas that will not get heavy wear, like the back of a sweater.

Prevent holes by storing knitting properly

Most holes in finished knitting come from moths, snags on jewelry or rough surfaces, or careless storage. Store finished knit garments in a sealed plastic bin or a cotton storage bag with cedar blocks or lavender sachets. Keep them away from rough hooks, sharp edges, and direct sunlight, which can fade and weaken the yarn.

Inspect garments before storing them and repair small snags when ready—a tiny catch is much easier to fix than a hole that has unraveled over time. Wash and dry knitting completely before storing, because moths are attracted to sweat and body oils.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I fix a dropped stitch if it has unraveled more than ten rows?

Yes, but it becomes tedious. Use a crochet hook and work slowly, picking up each horizontal strand one at a time. If the dropped stitch is in the middle of a visible panel and you are not confident, unraveling back to that point and re-knitting may be faster and give a cleaner result.

What if I cannot find yarn that matches my finished knitting?

For darning or patching, a close match in weight and fiber is more important than an exact color match, especially if the repair is on the back or inside. For duplicate stitch on the front, a slightly darker shade is less noticeable than a lighter one. Test on a hidden area first.

Will a repaired hole be visible after washing?

A well-done repair should hold through washing. Weave in all loose ends securely and use yarn that matches the fiber content of your garment so it shrinks and stretches at the same rate. Wash the repaired garment gently in cool water and lay it flat to dry.

Is it worth repairing a hole in an old sweater?

If the sweater is otherwise in good condition and fits well, a repair takes 20 to 45 minutes and extends its life by years. If the yarn is brittle, the garment has multiple holes, or the fabric is thinning, the sweater may be nearing the end of its life and repair may not be worth the time.