The four ways to add stitches in the middle of your work
An increase adds a new stitch to your needle without casting on. The four main methods are the bar increase (knit front and back), the yarn over, the lifted increase, and the make one. Each leaves a different look on your fabric — some are invisible, some create a decorative line, and some sit flat. Which one you use depends on where you are in your row, what pattern calls for, and whether you want the increase to show.
All four work the same way in principle: you create an extra loop on your needle from the yarn or an existing stitch. The difference is where that loop comes from and how you anchor it. Once you understand the mechanics of each, you can choose the right one for your project.
Key Takeaways
- The bar increase (knit front and back) is the easiest to learn and leaves a small horizontal bump on your fabric that can be decorative or hidden depending on placement.
- Yarn overs create an intentional hole and are used in lace patterns and eyelet designs where the gap is part of the look.
- Lifted increases (picking up the loop from the row below) are nearly invisible and work well when you want the increase to disappear into the fabric.
- Make one increases are worked between stitches and are the most invisible option for shaping that does not show.
Knit front and back (the bar increase)
The bar increase is the simplest method and the best place to start. Knit into the front of the stitch as you normally would, but do not slip it off the left needle. Bring your yarn to the back, insert your right needle through the back of that same stitch, and knit it again. Now slip the stitch off the left needle. You have made two stitches from one.
This method leaves a small horizontal line or bump at the base of the new stitch — that is the "bar" that gives it its name. On stockinette stitch, the bar sits one row below where you worked the increase and runs horizontally across one stitch width. You can use this as a design feature (it looks intentional in many patterns) or hide it by working increases a few rows apart so they blend into the texture.
The bar increase is fast and does not require you to think about yarn position. It works at any point in a row and is forgiving if you are still building muscle memory. The trade-off is that it is visible, so it is not the best choice when you want shaping to be completely hidden.
Yarn over (creating intentional holes)
A yarn over is an increase that deliberately creates a hole in your fabric. Bring your yarn to the front of your work (as if you were about to purl), then knit the next stitch. The yarn that is now in front of your needle creates a new stitch, and the hole appears directly below it on the finished fabric.
Yarn overs are standard in lace knitting, eyelet patterns, and decorative shaping. They are the only increase that is meant to be seen and are often paired with decreases to create the openwork patterns that define lace. If your pattern calls for increases without mentioning yarn overs, do not use this method — the holes will not match the intended design.
The yarn over is the fastest increase to work because it requires no extra steps. You straightforward move your yarn and knit. It works only on knit rows (or purl rows if you are working in the opposite direction), and you must be aware of where your yarn is before you start, or you will accidentally create extra stitches.
Lifted increase (picking up from the row below)
A lifted increase works by picking up a loop from the row directly below your working row and knitting it as a new stitch. Insert your right needle under the loop of the stitch one row down and one stitch to the left of your working stitch, lift it onto your left needle, then knit it. Then knit the stitch above it as normal. You have increased by one stitch and created almost no visible trace.
This method is nearly invisible on stockinette stitch because the new stitch blends into the column of stitches around it. It is the best choice for fitted garments where you want shaping to be subtle — sweater armholes, raglan sleeves, and tapered waistbands all benefit from lifted increases. The increase sits slightly to the left of where you worked it, so if you are increasing on both sides of a panel, work right-leaning increases on the right side and left-leaning increases on the left side to keep them symmetrical.
Lifted increases take a little practice because you have to find the correct loop and lift it cleanly. Once you develop the habit, they become as fast as any other method. They work on any row and do not require you to think about yarn position.
Make one (the invisible increase between stitches)
A make one increase is worked in the space between two stitches rather than into a stitch itself. Insert your left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch. Knit through the back of that loop. This creates a new stitch from the strand itself, and the increase is nearly invisible.
Make one increases come in two directions: make one left (M1L) and make one right (M1R). The direction refers to which way the new stitch leans. On a right-leaning increase, you knit through the back of the loop. On a left-leaning increase, you knit through the front of the loop. Use M1L on the left side of a panel and M1R on the right side to keep paired increases balanced.
Make one is the most invisible increase available and the standard choice for fitted shaping in professional patterns. It requires you to identify the strand between stitches, which takes practice, but once you see it, it becomes automatic. The increase sits directly where you worked it with no offset, making it easier to count rows and plan your shaping.
Comparing the four methods at a glance
| Method | Visibility | Speed | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bar increase (KFB) | Visible horizontal bump | Fast | Decorative shaping, textured fabrics |
| Yarn over | Intentional hole | Fastest | Lace, eyelets, openwork |
| Lifted increase | Nearly invisible | Moderate | Fitted garments, subtle shaping |
| Make one | Nearly invisible | Moderate | Professional shaping, fitted pieces |
Which increase to use when your pattern does not say
If your pattern calls for an increase but does not specify which method, the default is usually make one or lifted increase — whichever is most common in patterns from that designer or tradition. Lace patterns always mean yarn over. Vintage patterns and folk patterns often use bar increases. Modern fitted garment patterns almost always mean make one.
If you are designing your own shaping, choose based on where the increase sits and what look you want. Increases at the edge of a piece (within a few stitches of the selvage) are often bar increases because they are fast and the bump gets sewn into a seam. Increases in the middle of a panel should be make one or lifted to stay invisible. Increases in a lace section must be yarn overs to match the openwork.
When in doubt, make one is the safest choice. It is invisible, works anywhere, and is what most modern patterns expect. Once you are comfortable with it, you can branch out to the others based on what your pattern or design calls for.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use any increase method anywhere in a row?
Yarn overs work only on knit rows (or purl rows if you are working in reverse). The other three methods work anywhere. Make one and lifted increases are best in the middle of a row, while bar increases work at any point but are most common near edges where the bump will be hidden in a seam.
What does it mean when a pattern says M1L or M1R?
M1L is make one left (knit through the front of the loop) and M1R is make one right (knit through the back of the loop). The direction refers to which way the new stitch leans. Patterns use both in pairs to keep shaping balanced — M1L on the left side of a panel and M1R on the right side.
Why does my increase look bumpy or uneven?
Tension is the most common cause. If you pull too hard on the yarn after working an increase, the new stitch will look tight and distorted. Work the stitch after your increase with slightly looser tension, then return to normal. Also check that you are picking up the correct loop — a lifted increase from the wrong row or a make one from the wrong strand will sit crooked.
Can I increase multiple stitches in one row?
Yes. You can work as many increases as your pattern calls for. If you are increasing on both sides of a panel in the same row, use paired increases (M1L on the left, M1R on the right) to keep them symmetrical. Space multiple increases evenly across the row unless your pattern specifies otherwise.