The Three Main Ways to Add Stitches While Knitting

You increase a stitch by creating a new loop on your needle without casting on. The most common methods are the yarn over, the knit front and back, and the make one. Each produces a slightly different look and sits in a different place on your fabric. Yarn overs leave a visible hole and are often used for lace patterns. Knit front and back creates a small bump and is the fastest method. Make one is nearly invisible and is the choice for shaping garments where you want the increase to blend in.

The method you choose depends on whether you want the increase to show, where it needs to sit on the row, and how many stitches you are adding at once. For a single stitch increase in the middle of a row, any of the three will work. For multiple increases in the same row, make one is usually best because it does not create holes or bumps that pile up visually.

Key Takeaways

  • Yarn over is the fastest increase and creates a deliberate hole, making it the right choice for lace and decorative patterns.
  • Knit front and back adds a stitch by working into the same loop twice and leaves a small bump that sits one stitch to the left of where you worked it.
  • Make one is the invisible increase, worked between two stitches by lifting the strand that runs between them, and is best for shaping sleeves and necklines.
  • The position of the increase on your row matters: increases one or two stitches from the edge create a neater selvage than increases worked at the very edge.

Yarn Over: The Visible Increase

A yarn over is worked by bringing your yarn to the front of your work, then knitting the next stitch normally. The yarn wraps around your needle and creates a new stitch with a hole beneath it. This hole is the defining feature of a yarn over and is intentional in lace knitting, eyelet patterns, and decorative shaping.

To work a yarn over on a knit row, bring your yarn forward between the needles as if you were about to purl. Then knit the next stitch. The yarn is now wrapped around your right needle and counts as a new stitch. On the next row, you will purl or knit into this new stitch like any other. The hole appears directly below the yarn over on the finished fabric.

Yarn overs are fast because they require no extra steps beyond moving your yarn. They are also the only increase that does not require you to work into the same stitch twice or manipulate the strand between stitches. If you are adding many stitches in one row for a lace panel, yarn overs are the most efficient choice.

Knit Front and Back: The Quick Increase

Knit front and back, often written as KFB, means you knit into the same stitch twice before dropping it from the left needle. First, knit the stitch normally and leave it on the left needle. Then insert your right needle through the back of that same stitch and knit it again. Now drop the stitch from the left needle. You have created two stitches from one.

The new stitch created by knitting into the back sits slightly to the left of the original stitch on your finished fabric, creating a small bump or bar. This bump is visible and can be used as a design feature in some patterns, but it is usually considered a drawback if you are shaping a garment and want the increase to be invisible. The bump becomes more noticeable if you work many KFB increases in the same row or in consecutive rows.

KFB is the fastest increase to work because it requires only one extra insertion of the needle. It is also the easiest to remember in the middle of a row. Many patterns use KFB for baby items and blankets where the small bump is either hidden by texture or considered part of the design.

Make One: The Invisible Increase

A make one increase, written as M1, is worked between two stitches by lifting the strand that runs horizontally between them. Insert your left needle under this strand from front to back, then knit into the back of the lifted loop. This creates a new stitch with no hole and no visible bump.

To work a make one on a knit row, position your needles so you can see the strand between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. Insert your left needle under this strand from the front, lifting it onto the needle. Insert your right needle through the back of this lifted loop and knit it. The new stitch sits directly between the two original stitches.

Make one is the standard increase for fitted garments because it is nearly invisible when worked correctly. It requires a little more care than yarn over or KFB because you must locate and lift the correct strand, but the result is worth the extra step. Many patterns specify make one increases for sleeve shaping, waist shaping, and neckline increases where a clean line matters.

Where to Place Your Increases on the Row

The position of an increase affects how your finished edge looks and how straightforward the increase is to work. Increases worked one or two stitches from the edge create a neater selvage than increases worked at the very edge. If your pattern calls for increases at the edge, work them one stitch in from the edge so the selvage stitch remains stable.

For symmetrical shaping, work increases on both sides of the row in the same position. If you are increasing every other row, work the increase on the knit side only, not on the purl side. This keeps the increases aligned vertically and makes the shaping easier to see and count as you work.

When you are increasing multiple stitches in one row, space them evenly across the row rather than clustering them. This distributes the added width evenly and prevents the fabric from bunching or pulling. A pattern will usually tell you where to place each increase, but if you are designing your own shaping, divide the total stitches by the number of increases you need and space them accordingly.

Reading Your Pattern's Increase Instructions

Patterns use abbreviations to tell you which increase to work. YO means yarn over. KFB or K1FB means knit front and back. M1 or M1L means make one, and M1R means make one right (a variation that leans in a specific direction). Some patterns also use inc without specifying which method, in which case you can choose any increase that suits the fabric.

If a pattern says "increase 1 stitch evenly across the row," it means you will add one stitch somewhere in the row, usually spaced to avoid bunching. Count your total stitches, divide by the number of increases, and place each increase roughly that many stitches apart. For example, if you have 60 stitches and need to increase 6 stitches, place one increase every 10 stitches.

Always check the pattern notes or schematic to see whether the increases are meant to be visible. Lace patterns and openwork designs expect yarn overs. Fitted garments usually specify make one. If the pattern does not specify and you are unsure, make one is the safest choice because it blends into most fabrics.

Common Mistakes When Increasing

The most common mistake is forgetting to drop the original stitch from the left needle after working into it. This happens with KFB and make one because both require you to work into a stitch or strand that is still on the left needle. If you forget to drop it, you will have an extra stitch that does not belong and your stitch count will be off.

Another mistake is working the increase in the wrong place. Yarn overs must be followed by a knit stitch on the same row, or you will create a hole in the wrong spot. Make one increases worked from the back instead of the front will lean in the opposite direction from what the pattern expects. If your increases are leaning the wrong way, check whether you are inserting the needle correctly.

Uneven tension around increases is also common. The new stitch created by an increase is often looser than the surrounding stitches. On the next row, knit or purl the new stitch slightly tighter than usual to even out the tension. This is especially important with make one, where a loose new stitch will be more visible.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between M1L and M1R?

M1L (make one left) and M1R (make one right) are variations that lean in opposite directions. M1L is worked by lifting the strand from back to front and knitting into the front of the loop. M1R is worked by lifting the strand from front to back and knitting into the back of the loop. Patterns use both when they want increases to lean away from the center for symmetrical shaping.

Can I use yarn over for shaping a fitted garment?

Yarn overs create holes, so they are not ideal for fitted garments where you want clean shaping. They work well for lace shawls, cardigans with eyelet details, and any pattern where the holes are intentional. For a fitted sleeve or neckline, use make one or KFB instead.

Do I count the new stitch created by an increase toward my stitch count?

Yes. When you increase, you add one stitch to your total. If you start a row with 60 stitches and work one increase, you will have 61 stitches at the end of the row. Your pattern will tell you how many stitches you should have after all increases are complete.

Why does my make one increase look bumpy?

A bumpy make one usually means the new stitch is too loose or you are working into the wrong part of the lifted strand. Knit the new stitch slightly tighter on the next row to even out the tension. Also check that you are lifting the strand between the correct two stitches and knitting into the back of the loop, not the front.

Can I increase more than one stitch in the same spot?

Yes, but it is usually better to space increases out. If you need to add multiple stitches in one row, work them a few stitches apart rather than all in the same place. This prevents the fabric from bunching and makes the shaping look intentional rather than accidental.