What "increase" means and when you use it

An increase is a deliberate method to add stitches to your needles while you knit. You start with a certain number of stitches on your needle, and by the end of a row or round, you have more. Increases let you shape your work — they're how you widen a sleeve, add fullness to the body of a sweater, or create the sides of a hat that tapers to a crown.

Unlike casting on, which happens before you knit, increases happen within the fabric itself. The new stitch grows from the yarn and existing stitches you already have. This is why increases look different from cast-on edges and blend into the body of your piece.

Most knitting patterns tell you exactly where to increase and which method to use. The pattern might say "increase 1 stitch" or "M1" (make one) or "K1fb" (knit into the front and back). Understanding how each method works helps you follow the pattern correctly and know what the finished edge will look like.

Key Takeaways

  • The most common increases are knit-front-and-back (K1fb), make one (M1), yarn over (YO), and lifted increases, each creating a slightly different look in your fabric.
  • Increases worked at the edges of your piece (one or two stitches in from the edge) create a neater selvage than increases worked right at the edge.
  • Yarn overs create a visible hole and are often used for lace patterns or decorative shaping, while other increases are nearly invisible.
  • Your pattern will specify which increase to use and where; following that instruction matters because different increases affect how the fabric drapes and looks.

Knit front and back (K1fb) — the simplest increase

The knit front and back increase, written as K1fb or sometimes KFB, is the easiest to learn. You knit into the same stitch twice before dropping it off the left needle. First, insert your right needle into the stitch as if to knit normally, wrap the yarn, and pull through. Do not drop the stitch yet. Instead, insert your right needle into the back loop of that same stitch (from right to left), wrap the yarn again, and pull through. Now drop the original stitch off the left needle. You have made two stitches from one.

This increase is quick and works well for straightforward shaping. The downside is that it can leave a small bump or bar at the base of the new stitch, especially if you work it on every row. Many knitters use K1fb for increases that will be hidden inside seams or at edges that will be folded over.

If your pattern calls for K1fb and you want a cleaner look, you can work it through the back loop instead of the front loop first — this twists the stitch slightly and can make the bump less obvious.

Make one (M1) — the nearly invisible increase

A make one increase, written as M1, creates a new stitch by picking up the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two stitches. This method leaves almost no visible trace in your fabric, which is why it's the standard choice for fitted shaping on sweaters and garments where you want the increases to disappear into the design.

To work an M1, insert your left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. Then knit into that strand through the back loop. This twists the new stitch and closes the hole that would otherwise appear. If your pattern specifies M1L (make one left) or M1R (make one right), the direction tells you which way to insert the needle — this affects which direction the new stitch leans, which matters when you're increasing on both sides of a piece and want the increases to mirror each other.

M1 is slightly slower than K1fb because you have to locate and pick up the strand, but the invisible result is worth the extra second. Most patterns that ask for shaping use M1 for this reason.

Yarn over (YO) — the decorative increase

A yarn over, written as YO, adds a stitch by straightforward wrapping the yarn around the needle without knitting into an existing stitch. The result is a deliberate eyelet or hole in your fabric. Yarn overs are standard in lace patterns, but they're also used in other designs where the shaping is meant to be visible and decorative.

How you work a yarn over depends on what stitch comes before and after it. If you just knitted a stitch and the next stitch is a knit, bring the yarn to the front of the work (as if to purl), then knit the next stitch — the yarn wrapping around the needle creates the new stitch. If you just purled and the next stitch is a purl, take the yarn to the back, then purl the next stitch. The key is that the yarn must pass over the needle to create the new stitch and the hole.

Yarn overs are the fastest increase to work once you understand the motion. They're also the most visible, so use them only when your pattern calls for them or when you want the shaping to show.

Lifted increases — picking up stitches from the row below

A lifted increase works by knitting into a stitch from the row below, then knitting the stitch on your needle normally. This creates two stitches without picking up a strand or working into the same stitch twice. Lifted increases are often written as LLI (left lifted increase) or RLI (right lifted increase), depending on which direction you work.

To work a right lifted increase, insert your right needle into the stitch directly below the next stitch on your left needle (one row down), knit it, then knit the stitch on your needle normally. For a left lifted increase, work the stitch on your needle first, then go back and knit into the stitch below it. Lifted increases are nearly invisible and create a neat, professional look. They're common in fitted garments and patterns where the shaping should blend seamlessly.

Lifted increases take a little practice to locate the correct stitch below, but once you develop the habit, they become fast and reliable. Many experienced knitters prefer them because they're invisible and don't require you to pick up strands or work into the same stitch twice.

Where to place increases for the neatest edges

Increases worked right at the edge of your piece can look sloppy or create an uneven selvage. Instead, work increases one or two stitches in from the edge. For example, if you're increasing on both sides of a sleeve, knit one or two edge stitches, work your increase, knit across to the last two or three stitches, work your increase, then knit the remaining edge stitches. This keeps the edge clean and makes seaming easier later.

When you increase on both sides of a piece and want the shaping to look balanced, use M1L on the left side and M1R on the right side. This makes the increases lean toward the edges, creating a symmetrical look. If your pattern doesn't specify which increase to use on each side, this is a good default choice.

Increases worked in the middle of your piece (for example, on a cardigan front where you're adding width) can be spaced however the pattern directs. The pattern will tell you how many stitches apart to space them and how often to repeat the increase row.

Reading your pattern's increase instructions

Knitting patterns use abbreviations to tell you which increase to work. The most common are K1fb (knit front and back), M1 or M1R or M1L (make one), YO (yarn over), and sometimes inc (increase, which usually means K1fb unless the pattern specifies otherwise). Some patterns write out the full instruction instead of using an abbreviation, especially in beginner patterns.

If your pattern says "increase 1 stitch evenly across the row," it means you should space your increases so they're roughly the same distance apart. To figure out the spacing, divide the number of stitches on your needle by the number of increases you need to make. If you have 60 stitches and need to increase 6 stitches, space them roughly every 10 stitches.

Always read the pattern notes at the beginning — sometimes the pattern will explain which increase method to use if it's not standard, or it will tell you that increases are decorative and meant to show. This context helps you understand what the finished piece should look like.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between M1 and K1fb?

M1 picks up the strand between stitches and is nearly invisible, while K1fb knits into the same stitch twice and leaves a small bump. M1 is better for fitted shaping; K1fb is faster and fine for edges that will be hidden or folded.

Can I use a different increase than the pattern calls for?

You can, but the result may look different. If the pattern specifies M1 for invisible shaping and you use K1fb instead, the bumps will show. If the pattern calls for YO and you use M1, you'll lose the decorative holes. Follow the pattern's instruction unless you're experienced enough to know how the change will affect the look.

Why does my increase create a hole when the pattern doesn't show one?

You're likely working a yarn over when the pattern calls for M1, or you're not twisting the M1 stitch correctly. Check that you're knitting into the back loop of the picked-up strand, not the front loop. If the pattern shows no holes, use M1 or a lifted increase instead of YO.

Do I count the new stitch from an increase toward my stitch count?

Yes. If you have 40 stitches and work 4 increases, you now have 44 stitches. Your pattern will tell you how many stitches you should have after each increase row — use that number to check that you've worked the right number of increases.

What if I forget to increase on the row the pattern calls for?

You can pick up the missed increase on the next row by working a lifted increase into the stitch from the row you missed, but this will shift the shaping slightly. It's better to go back and fix it if you notice right away. If you're several rows past, you can either frog (rip out) back to that row or accept the slight asymmetry and continue forward.