What "increase" means and why you need it

An increase is a deliberate method to add stitches to your needle while you knit. You use increases to shape your work — to make sleeves wider, add fullness to a sweater body, or create the sloped sides of a hat. Without increases, every row would have the same number of stitches, and your piece would be a flat rectangle.

Most knitting patterns tell you exactly where to increase and which method to use. Learning the most common techniques means you can follow those instructions confidently and understand why the pattern chose that particular increase for that particular spot.

Key Takeaways

  • The most common increases are the yarn over (creates a visible hole), the knit front and back (adds a stitch without a hole), and the lifted increase (picks up a stitch from the row below).
  • A yarn over is the fastest increase and leaves a decorative eyelet; use it when the pattern calls for it or when you want a lacy effect.
  • Knit front and back is invisible and works well for shaping where you do not want a visible hole.
  • Increases can slant left or right depending on which direction you work them, which matters for symmetrical shaping on both sides of a garment.
  • Your pattern will specify which increase to use and where; if it does not, knit front and back is the safest default choice.

Yarn over — the fastest increase

A yarn over (often written as "yo" in patterns) is the simplest increase to execute. You straightforward bring your yarn to the front of your work, then knit the next stitch normally. This creates a new stitch and leaves a small, deliberate hole in your fabric.

Yarn overs are fast because they require no extra steps beyond moving your yarn. They are also decorative — patterns use them intentionally to create lace or eyelet details. If your pattern says "yo," it wants that visible hole as part of the design. If you increase by accident and create an unintended hole, a yarn over is what happened.

The direction your yarn comes from matters slightly. If you bring it forward between the needles (the standard motion), the hole sits directly above the increase. This is the most common yarn over and works for most patterns.

Knit front and back — the invisible increase

Knit front and back (often abbreviated "kfb") adds a stitch without creating a hole. Insert your needle through the front of the stitch as if to knit, knit it, then — without dropping the stitch from your left needle — insert your right needle through the back of that same stitch and knit it again. Now you have two stitches where one was.

This increase is invisible because the new stitch blends into the fabric. Use it when you need to add width but do not want a decorative hole. It works well for shaping the sides of sweaters, adding fullness to sleeves, or increasing evenly across a row.

One small note: knit front and back creates a stitch that leans slightly to the right. If you are increasing on both sides of a piece and want perfectly symmetrical shaping, you may want to pair it with a left-leaning increase on the opposite side — but many patterns ignore this detail, and the difference is subtle.

Lifted increases — picking up from the row below

A lifted increase works by picking up a stitch from the row directly below your current row, then knitting into it. There are left-leaning and right-leaning versions depending on which direction you pick up the stitch from.

For a right-leaning lifted increase, insert your needle under the stitch one row below and one stitch to the right of your current position, lift it onto your left needle, then knit it. Then knit the next stitch on your left needle normally. This adds one stitch and creates a subtle texture rather than a hole.

Lifted increases are less common in beginner patterns but appear often in shaping instructions because they create a neat, almost invisible line of increases. They take a bit more practice to execute smoothly, but once you understand the motion, they become reliable.

Left-leaning and right-leaning increases

When you increase on both sides of a piece — such as on either side of a center panel or at both edges of a sleeve — the direction the increase leans matters for symmetry. A right-leaning increase slants toward the right side of your work, while a left-leaning increase slants toward the left.

Knit front and back leans right. To create a left-leaning version, you can work a lifted increase on the left side, or use a technique called "purl front and back" if you are working on a purl row. Yarn overs are neutral — they create a hole rather than a slant — so they work the same on both sides.

Many patterns do not specify left versus right, especially in casual garments where the asymmetry is barely visible. But if your pattern shows a diagram with increases marked on both sides, it is telling you to match the slant on each side for a polished look.

Reading your pattern's increase instructions

Patterns use abbreviations to tell you which increase to use. "Yo" means yarn over. "Kfb" means knit front and back. "M1" or "M1R" means make one (usually a lifted increase, right-leaning). "M1L" means make one left-leaning. Some patterns spell out the full instruction instead of using abbreviations.

If your pattern says "increase 1 stitch" without specifying how, knit front and back is the safest choice because it is invisible and works in almost any context. If the pattern specifies a method, follow it — the designer chose that technique for a reason, whether for shaping, appearance, or how the fabric will hang.

Most patterns also tell you where to increase: "increase 1 stitch at each edge" means add one stitch on both the left and right sides of your piece, usually one or two stitches in from the edge. "Increase 1 stitch evenly across" means space your increases throughout the row so the added stitches are distributed.

Spacing increases evenly across a row

When a pattern says to increase evenly across a row — for example, "increase 10 stitches evenly across 60 stitches" — you need to space those 10 increases so they look balanced. Divide your total stitch count by the number of increases: 60 divided by 10 equals 6, so you would increase roughly every 6 stitches.

You do not have to be exact. A straightforward method is to count off: knit 6 stitches, increase 1, knit 6, increase 1, and repeat across the row. If your math does not divide evenly, adjust the spacing slightly at the beginning or end of the row — the difference will not be visible in the finished piece.

Some knitters use stitch markers to mark where each increase should happen before they start knitting. Others count as they go. Either way works; choose whichever feels more natural to you.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most frequent mistake is accidentally creating a yarn over when you meant to increase invisibly. This happens when you bring your yarn forward without meaning to. To avoid it, keep your yarn in the back of your work while you knit front and back, and only bring it forward if the pattern specifically calls for a yarn over.

Another common issue is dropping the original stitch too early when working knit front and back. Insert your needle through the front, knit, then insert through the back of the same stitch — do not drop it until you have completed both steps. If you drop it after the first knit, you will lose a stitch.

If you increase in the wrong place or use the wrong method, you can usually fix it by dropping back a few rows and re-knitting that section. It is frustrating but faster than ripping out the entire piece. Many knitters keep a crochet hook handy for this reason — it makes picking up dropped stitches much easier.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between an increase and adding stitches at the cast-on?

Cast-on adds stitches at the very beginning of your piece, before you start knitting. Increases add stitches while you knit, in the middle of your work. Increases let you shape your piece as you go — making it wider in some rows and not in others. Cast-on creates your starting width.

Can I use yarn over for shaping if my pattern does not specify?

You can, but your piece will have visible holes. If you want invisible shaping, use knit front and back instead. Yarn overs are best reserved for lace or when the pattern specifically calls for them. If you use yarn over by accident, you will see small eyelets running through your work.

Do I count the new stitch when I increase?

Yes. When you knit front and back, you have added one stitch to your needle. If your pattern says you should have 60 stitches after increasing, count your stitches on the needle — you should have exactly 60. The new stitch counts toward your total.

What if I increase on the wrong row?

If you increased one row too early or too late, the shaping will be slightly off, but the piece will still work. If you increased in the completely wrong place, you can drop back to that row with a crochet hook, undo the stitches, and re-knit correctly. It takes time but is worth it for a garment you plan to wear often.

Is there a way to make increases less visible?

Lifted increases and knit front and back are both nearly invisible. Lifted increases create a slightly neater line. If you are working with dark yarn, any increase will be less noticeable than with light yarn. Placing increases one or two stitches in from the edge (rather than at the very edge) also makes them blend better into the fabric.