The two main ways to add stitches mid-row

Increasing stitches means creating new loops on your needle while you knit, which widens your fabric or adds shaping. The two methods you'll use most are the yarn over and the knit front and back (KFB). A yarn over is the simplest—you just wrap yarn around the needle to create a new stitch and a decorative hole. Knit front and back works by knitting into the same stitch twice before dropping it off the needle, which adds a stitch without creating a hole.

Which method you choose depends on whether you want the increase to be visible. Yarn overs are often used for lace patterns or when you want the increase to show as part of the design. Knit front and back is better for shaping that should blend in, like the sides of a sweater or the crown of a hat. Both methods are fast once you understand the hand motion, and neither requires special tools.

Key Takeaways

  • Yarn over (YO) creates a new stitch by wrapping yarn around the needle and leaves a visible hole, which works well for lace or decorative increases.
  • Knit front and back (KFB) adds a stitch by knitting twice into the same loop, creating an invisible increase that blends into the fabric.
  • Make one (M1) is a third increase method that lifts the horizontal strand between two stitches and knits it, useful when you want an increase that sits flat.
  • Your pattern will tell you which increase to use and where, so always check the abbreviations key before you start a new project.
  • Increases are often paired with decreases to create shaping without changing the total stitch count, as in raglan or waist shaping.

How to do a yarn over (YO)

A yarn over is the easiest increase to learn because it requires only one motion: wrapping the working yarn around the needle. The exact hand movement depends on what stitch comes before and after the yarn over, but the principle is the same—the yarn ends up on the needle as a new stitch.

If you're working in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side), a yarn over between two knit stitches looks like this: knit one stitch normally, then bring the yarn to the front of the work as if you were about to purl. Wrap it around the right needle from front to back, then knit the next stitch. That wrap becomes a new stitch on the needle, and it leaves a small hole in the fabric. On the next row, you'll purl into that yarn over just like any other stitch.

The hole is intentional and decorative—it's what makes yarn overs popular in lace knitting. If you're working a pattern with yarn overs, the holes will line up to create the lace design. Always check your pattern's abbreviation key, because the exact placement of the yarn over (before or after the next stitch) changes depending on the stitch pattern.

How to do a knit front and back (KFB)

Knit front and back is an invisible increase because it doesn't leave a hole. You knit twice into the same stitch before dropping it off the needle, which turns one stitch into two. The result blends into the fabric and is often used for shaping where you don't want the increase to show.

To do a KFB: insert your right needle into the next stitch on the left needle as if you were going to knit it normally. Knit the stitch and leave it on the left needle—don't drop it yet. Now insert the right needle into the back of that same stitch (from right to left instead of left to right) and knit it again. Now drop the original stitch off the left needle. You've created two stitches from one.

The first new stitch sits on the right needle normally. The second one, created from the back loop, sometimes twists slightly, which is why some knitters prefer other increase methods for very visible areas. But for most shaping—sleeve caps, waist shaping, or crown decreases on hats—KFB works well and is fast once your hands learn the motion.

How to do a make one (M1) increase

A make one increase lifts the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two stitches and knits it as a new stitch. This creates a very neat, flat increase that sits almost invisibly in the fabric. It's more common in fitted garments and patterns where shaping needs to be invisible.

To do a left-leaning M1 (M1L): insert your left needle from left to right under the horizontal strand between the stitch you just knit and the next stitch. Knit into the back of that lifted strand. To do a right-leaning M1 (M1R), insert the needle from right to left under the same strand and knit into the front. The direction you choose affects which way the increase leans, which matters in patterns where increases are paired symmetrically.

Make one requires a bit more precision than yarn over or KFB because you have to find and lift the right strand. It's worth learning if you knit fitted garments regularly, but it's not essential for beginners. Many patterns that call for M1 will accept KFB as a substitute if you're not comfortable with the technique yet.

Reading increase abbreviations in patterns

Knitting patterns use short abbreviations to tell you which increase to use. The most common are YO (yarn over), KFB (knit front and back), M1 or M1L or M1R (make one, left-leaning, or right-leaning), and sometimes INC (increase, which usually means KFB unless the pattern specifies). Always check the abbreviations key at the beginning of your pattern, because some designers use their own shorthand.

Patterns also tell you where to place increases—often in a specific column or at regular intervals. For example, a hat pattern might say "increase 8 stitches evenly spaced around" or "KFB in every 4th stitch." This means you count your stitches and divide them into sections so the increases are spread out evenly rather than bunched in one spot. Uneven increases create lumpy shaping, so take the time to count and space them correctly.

Spacing increases evenly across a row

When a pattern tells you to increase a certain number of stitches evenly, you need to divide your total stitches by the number of increases you're making. For example, if you have 60 stitches and need to increase 6 stitches evenly, you divide 60 by 6 to get 10. That means you'll place one increase every 10 stitches.

A straightforward way to do this: knit 10 stitches, then do your increase, then knit 10 stitches, then increase again, and repeat across the row. The increases will be evenly spaced and your shaping will look balanced. Some knitters use stitch markers to mark where each increase should go before they start the row, which prevents counting mistakes mid-row.

If the math doesn't divide evenly—say you have 60 stitches and need 7 increases—you'll have a few stitches left over. Distribute them as evenly as possible across the row so no two increases sit right next to each other. This is a small detail, but it makes the difference between shaping that looks intentional and shaping that looks accidental.

Common mistakes when increasing

The most common mistake is forgetting to drop the original stitch off the needle after a KFB, which means you've created three stitches instead of two. Always complete the motion: knit the front, knit the back, then drop. If you realize mid-row that you've done this, you can usually fix it by dropping the extra stitch and running it back down to the row where it belongs, then picking it back up correctly.

Another mistake is placing yarn overs in the wrong spot relative to the next stitch. If your pattern says "YO, K2tog," the yarn over comes before the decrease, not after. Reversing the order changes the direction the increase leans and can throw off the symmetry of your pattern. Always read the full instruction, not just the abbreviation.

Uneven spacing of increases also shows up quickly in fitted garments. If you're supposed to increase evenly and you bunch them all on one side, the shaping will pull to that side. Take the extra 30 seconds to count and mark where your increases go before you start the row.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use any increase method in any pattern?

Not always. Yarn over creates a hole, so it won't work in patterns where the fabric should be solid. Knit front and back and make one are more interchangeable, though they lean in slightly different directions. If your pattern specifies an increase, use that one. If it just says "increase," you can usually substitute KFB or M1 without problems.

What does it mean when a pattern says "increase 1 stitch"?

It means add one new stitch to your total count. If you have 50 stitches and increase 1, you'll have 51. The pattern will tell you which increase method to use, or you can choose KFB or M1 if it doesn't specify. Don't confuse this with "knit 1 stitch," which means knit a stitch that's already there.

Why does my increase look twisted or uneven?

KFB sometimes creates a twisted stitch on the second loop because you're knitting into the back of the stitch. If this bothers you, try M1 instead, which creates a flatter increase. You can also practice the motion slowly until your hands learn the right tension. Uneven spacing of increases across the row also makes shaping look lumpy, so double-check your math before you start.

Do I need to know all three increase methods to knit?

No. Most beginners learn yarn over and KFB and use those for years. Make one is useful once you start fitted garments, but it's not essential. Pick one or two methods, practice them until they're automatic, then add more as you take on more complex patterns.

What's the difference between increasing and adding stitches at the edge?

Increasing adds stitches in the middle of a row or round, which is what these methods do. Adding stitches at the edge (called casting on at the edge) is different—you create new stitches at the beginning or end of a row using a cast-on method. Patterns will tell you which technique to use in each situation.