What Increasing Means and When You Use It

Increasing means adding new stitches to your needle while you knit. You do this when a pattern calls for it, usually to make your fabric wider or to shape pieces like sleeves, necklines, or the sides of a garment. Instead of knitting across the same number of stitches every row, you create extra stitches at specific points.

Most patterns tell you exactly where to increase and how many stitches to add. You might see instructions like "increase 1 stitch at each end of this row" or "increase 1 stitch every 4 rows." Learning the most common increase methods means you can follow any pattern that uses them.

Key Takeaways

  • The knit front and back (KFB) increase is the easiest method for beginners and works by knitting into the same stitch twice before dropping it off the needle.
  • The yarn over creates a deliberate hole in your fabric and is often used for lace patterns or decorative increases.
  • The make one (M1) increase is invisible and works by picking up the strand between two stitches, making it the most common choice for shaping garments.
  • Increases at the edges of your work (called edge increases) are easier to hide than increases in the middle of a row.
  • Practicing each method on a swatch before starting a real project helps you get the tension right and understand how each one changes your fabric.

The Knit Front and Back (KFB) Increase

The knit front and back increase is the simplest method and a good place to start. You knit into the front of a stitch the normal way, but before you drop it off the left needle, you knit into the back of that same stitch. This creates two stitches from one.

Here is the step-by-step process: Insert your right needle through the front of the stitch on your left needle and knit it normally. Do not drop the stitch off yet. Now insert your right needle through the back of that same stitch (from right to left) and knit it again. Now drop the original stitch off the left needle. You now have two stitches on your right needle where there was one before.

The drawback to KFB is that it creates a small bump or bar on the left side of the new stitch, which is visible in your finished fabric. This works fine for casual projects or when you want a textured look, but it is not invisible. Many knitters use KFB at the edges of a piece where a small bump is easier to hide in a seam.

The Yarn Over Increase

A yarn over (often written as YO in patterns) is an increase that deliberately creates a hole in your fabric. You straightforward bring your yarn to the front of your work, then knit the next stitch normally. This leaves a loop on your needle that becomes a new stitch, and the hole stays visible.

Yarn overs are common in lace knitting, where the holes are part of the design. They are also used in decorative increases where you want the shaping to show. Because yarn overs are so straightforward, they are often the first increase method beginners learn after KFB.

The timing of when you bring your yarn forward matters. If you are about to knit the next stitch, bring the yarn to the front, then knit. If you are about to purl, bring the yarn to the back, then purl. The yarn over sits on your needle as a new stitch, and you treat it like any other stitch in the next row.

The Make One (M1) Increase

The make one increase is invisible and the most common choice for shaping fitted garments. Instead of working into an existing stitch, you pick up the strand of yarn that runs between two stitches and knit into it. This creates a new stitch without leaving a visible bump or hole.

To do a make one increase: Locate the horizontal strand that runs between the stitch you just knitted and the next stitch on your left needle. Insert your left needle under this strand from front to back (or back to front, depending on which direction you want the new stitch to lean). Now knit into this loop. You have created a new stitch from the strand itself.

Make one increases can lean left or right depending on how you pick up the strand and which direction you knit into it. Patterns sometimes specify M1L (make one left) or M1R (make one right) to control the direction the new stitch leans. This matters most when you are increasing on both sides of a piece and want the increases to look balanced and intentional.

Where to Place Increases in Your Work

Increases at the edges of your piece are the easiest to hide because they sit in the seam allowance when you sew the pieces together. If your pattern says "increase 1 stitch at each end of the row," you work the increase as the first or last stitch (or just inside the edge stitch if you are keeping a selvage edge).

Increases in the middle of a row are more visible and are usually placed deliberately for shaping or design. A pattern might say "increase 1 stitch in the center of the row" or "increase 1 stitch every 6 stitches across." These increases often use the make one method because it is less noticeable than KFB, though yarn overs are used when the hole is part of the design.

Spacing matters too. If you increase every row, your fabric widens quickly and creates a steep slope. If you increase every 4 rows, the widening is more gradual. Patterns control the slope of your shaping by telling you how often to increase.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common mistake is accidentally creating extra stitches when you do not mean to. This happens when you knit into a stitch and then knit into it again without meaning to increase. To avoid this, count your stitches after each row where you increase. You should have exactly the number of stitches your pattern says you should have.

Another mistake is dropping the original stitch too early when doing a KFB increase. Make sure you knit into both the front and back of the stitch before you let it slide off the left needle. If you drop it after the first knit, you will have only created one stitch, not two.

Tension problems are common with increases too. The new stitch created by an increase is often looser than the stitches around it. On your next row, knit the new stitch a little tighter than usual to match the tension of the rest of your work. This takes practice, but it becomes automatic after a few projects.

Practicing Increases on a Swatch

Before you start a real project, practice each increase method on a small swatch. Cast on about 20 stitches and knit a few rows in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side). Then try a KFB increase, a yarn over, and a make one increase on separate rows. Knit several more rows and bind off.

Looking at your finished swatch, you will see how each increase looks and feels. The KFB will show a small bump. The yarn over will show a hole. The make one will be nearly invisible. This hands-on experience helps you understand which method to use when a pattern calls for an increase, and it builds the muscle memory you need to work increases smoothly when you are following a real pattern.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between M1 and KFB?

KFB knits into the same stitch twice and leaves a visible bump on the left side of the new stitch. M1 picks up the strand between two stitches and is invisible. M1 is better for shaping garments where you want the increase to be hidden, while KFB is simpler and works fine for casual projects or edges that will be sewn into a seam.

Can I use yarn over for shaping a sweater?

Yarn overs create visible holes, so they are not ideal for shaping a fitted sweater unless the holes are part of the design. Use make one increases instead for invisible shaping. Yarn overs work well in lace patterns or when you want the increase to be decorative and visible.

How do I know which increase method my pattern wants?

Patterns usually tell you which increase to use by writing the abbreviation: KFB, M1, M1L, M1R, or YO. If a pattern just says "increase 1 stitch" without specifying the method, KFB or M1 are both safe choices. Check the pattern's abbreviation key to be sure.

Why does my new stitch look loose compared to the others?

New stitches from increases are often looser because you are working with a strand of yarn that was not previously a stitch. On the next row, knit the new stitch a little tighter than the stitches around it. This evens out the tension and makes your fabric look more uniform.

Can I increase more than one stitch in the same spot?

Yes. If a pattern says "increase 2 stitches," you work two separate increases in that row, either in the same spot or spread across the row. You can do two KFB increases in a row, or two M1 increases, or mix methods. The pattern will tell you where and how many.