The two ways to add stitches mid-row and at the edge
You add stitches in knitting by either casting on new loops at the edge of your work or increasing within a row. The method you choose depends on where you need the extra stitches and what look you want the finished fabric to have. Adding stitches at the edge (usually the beginning or end of a row) uses a casting-on method; adding them within a row uses an increase stitch.
Most knitters reach for one of three techniques: the yarn-over for a decorative hole, the knit-front-and-back (KFB) for a nearly invisible increase, or the lifted increase for a stitch that sits flat. Each one produces a different texture and is suited to different projects.
Key Takeaways
- The yarn-over is the fastest way to add a stitch mid-row and creates a small hole, making it useful for lace patterns and buttonholes.
- Knit-front-and-back (KFB) adds a stitch without creating a hole and is the most common choice for shaping garments like sleeves.
- The lifted increase picks up a stitch from the row below and is nearly invisible, making it ideal when you want the increase to blend in.
- Casting on at the edge using the long-tail or cable method adds multiple stitches at once and is used for projects like adding a border or widening a piece.
- Increases always lean slightly left or right depending on which direction you work them, so pairing them on opposite sides creates a balanced look.
Yarn-over: the fastest increase with a visible hole
A yarn-over is the quickest way to add a stitch. You straightforward bring the working yarn to the front of your needles (if it is not already there), then knit or purl the next stitch as normal. The yarn wrapped around the needle creates a new loop, and you now have one extra stitch. The result is a small hole in the fabric.
Yarn-overs are standard in lace knitting because the holes are intentional and part of the pattern. They are also used to make buttonholes: you yarn-over, then drop a stitch on the next row to create an opening. On a stockinette stitch garment where you do not want a hole, yarn-overs are usually avoided for shaping.
The yarn-over works the same way whether you are working flat (back and forth) or in the round. If you are purling, bring the yarn to the back between the needles, purl the next stitch, and the yarn-over is complete.
Knit-front-and-back (KFB): the standard invisible increase
Knit-front-and-back is the most common increase stitch for shaping sleeves, waistlines, and other garment pieces. You knit into the front of a stitch as normal, but before sliding it off the left needle, you knit into the back of the same stitch. You now have two stitches where there was one, and no hole appears in the fabric.
The increase does create a small bump or bar on the left side of the new stitch, which is why it is sometimes called a "bar increase." On stockinette stitch, this bump is visible but subtle. If you work KFB on every other row along both edges of a piece, the bumps form a neat line that many knitters find attractive.
KFB leans slightly to the right. If you want a balanced look on both sides of a piece (like a sleeve cap), pair it with a left-leaning increase on the opposite edge. The most common left-leaning increase is the slip-slip-knit (SSK), where you slip two stitches one at a time, then knit them together through the back loop.
Lifted increase: nearly invisible shaping
The lifted increase picks up a stitch from the row below and knits it, then knits the stitch on the needle as normal. This creates two stitches without the bar that KFB leaves behind. The result is so subtle that many knitters use it when they want the increase to disappear into the fabric.
To work a lifted increase on the right side, insert your right needle into the stitch directly below the next stitch on your left needle, knit it, then knit the stitch on the needle. The lifted stitch comes from the row below, so you are not creating a new loop from the yarn; you are borrowing a stitch that already exists.
Lifted increases are common in fitted garments and shawls where a clean line matters. They are slightly slower than KFB because you have to locate and pick up the stitch below, but the invisible result is worth the extra step for many projects.
Casting on at the edge to add multiple stitches at once
When you need to add several stitches at the beginning or end of a row—such as when adding a border, widening a piece, or creating a sleeve cap—you cast on new stitches using a method that works mid-project. The long-tail cast-on and cable cast-on are the most common choices.
The long-tail cast-on creates a stretchy, finished edge and is often used when adding stitches that will be part of the final edge. The cable cast-on is firmer and works well when you are adding stitches that will be shaped or decreased later. Both methods let you add as many stitches as you need in one go, rather than increasing one stitch per row.
To cast on at the edge, work to the end of the row, then use your chosen cast-on method to create the new stitches on your needle before turning and working the next row. The new stitches sit at the edge of your work and are ready to knit on the following row.
Left-leaning and right-leaning increases for balanced shaping
Most increase stitches lean slightly in one direction. KFB and yarn-overs lean right; lifted increases and SSK lean left. When you are shaping both sides of a garment (like a sleeve or a cardigan front), using matching increases on both sides creates a lopsided look. Pairing a right-leaning increase on one side with a left-leaning increase on the other produces a balanced, symmetrical result.
On a sleeve cap, for example, you might work KFB at the beginning of the row and SSK at the end of the same row. The two increases mirror each other, and the shaping looks intentional rather than accidental. This is especially noticeable in fitted garments and in stitch patterns where the fabric is not heavily textured.
If your pattern does not specify which increase to use, check whether it calls for balanced shaping on both edges. If it does, choose a right-leaning increase for one side and a left-leaning increase for the other.
Reading your pattern to know where and when to increase
Knitting patterns tell you exactly where to increase using abbreviations and row numbers. Common abbreviations are inc (increase), M1 (make one, usually a lifted increase), yo (yarn-over), and kfb (knit-front-and-back). The pattern will say something like "K10, kfb, knit to end" or "Increase 1 stitch at each edge every other row 8 times."
If a pattern says to increase at the edge, work the increase one or two stitches in from the edge so the new stitch is not right at the selvage. This makes seaming easier and gives you a neat edge to work with. If the pattern does not specify, increasing one stitch in from the edge is the standard choice.
Some patterns use a chart to show where increases happen. On a chart, an increase is usually marked with a symbol like a small arrow or a circled stitch. The chart tells you the exact row and stitch position, so you can follow it row by row.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between an increase and a yarn-over?
A yarn-over adds a stitch and creates a hole; most other increases add a stitch without a hole. Yarn-overs are used intentionally in lace and for buttonholes. Other increases like KFB and lifted increases are used when you want to add stitches without changing the look of the fabric.
Can I increase on every row or only every other row?
You can increase on every row, but most patterns call for increases every other row or every third row. Increasing every row creates a steeper slope and is used for shaping like sleeve caps. Increasing every other row creates a gentler slope and is common for gradual shaping like a cardigan front.
What does it mean when a pattern says "increase 1 stitch at each edge"?
This means to add one stitch at the beginning of the row and one stitch at the end of the row, for a total of two new stitches per row. You will usually do this every other row for several rows in a row, as the pattern directs.
Do I have to use the same increase stitch throughout a project?
No. Many patterns use different increases in different places. You might use yarn-overs for a lace section and KFB for shaping a sleeve. As long as you follow what the pattern calls for, you can mix methods.
Why does my increase stitch look bumpy or uneven?
Tension is the most common cause. If you pull too tightly when working the increase stitch, it will look tight and bumpy. Try loosening your tension slightly on the row where you increase. Also, make sure you are working the increase correctly: for KFB, you must knit into both the front and back of the same stitch before dropping it.