The three main ways to add stitches mid-row
You increase stitches by working into the same loop twice, or by creating new loops from the yarn between existing stitches. The three methods you will encounter most are the knit front and back (KFB), the yarn over (YO), and the make one (M1). Each produces a slightly different look and sits in a different place on your fabric. KFB is the easiest to learn and leaves a small bump. Yarn overs create a visible hole and are common in lace patterns. Make ones are nearly invisible and are the choice for shaping garments where you want the increase to disappear into the fabric.
The pattern you are following will tell you which method to use and where. If it does not specify, KFB is the safest choice for a beginner because it requires no extra yarn and produces a stable stitch. Yarn overs and make ones are worth learning because they appear in most intermediate patterns, and each takes only a few extra seconds once you know the motion.
Key Takeaways
- Knit front and back (KFB) is the simplest increase: knit into the front loop of a stitch, then knit into the back loop of the same stitch before dropping it off the needle.
- Yarn over (YO) creates a deliberate hole by wrapping yarn around the needle between two stitches, and is standard in lace and decorative patterns.
- Make one (M1) is nearly invisible because it picks up the horizontal strand between two stitches and knits it, making it the choice for fitted garments.
- Your pattern will specify which increase to use; if it does not, KFB is the most forgiving option for beginners.
- All three methods add one stitch to your row and are worked on the knit side of the fabric unless your pattern says otherwise.
Knit front and back (KFB) — the beginner increase
KFB is the fastest increase to learn because it uses only the stitch already on your needle. Insert your right needle through the front loop of the stitch as if to knit normally. Wrap the yarn and pull through. Do not drop the stitch off the left needle yet. Instead, insert your right needle through the back loop of that same stitch, wrap the yarn again, and pull through. Now drop the stitch off the left needle. You have made two stitches from one.
The result is a small horizontal bump on the right side of your fabric, just below where you worked the increase. This bump is visible but not obtrusive, and it sits in a neat line if you increase in the same position on every row. KFB is common in sweater sleeves and hat crowns where you need to add stitches gradually. The stitch is stable and does not create holes, so it works well in stockinette stitch and other solid fabrics.
One drawback: KFB can make your fabric slightly tighter at the increase point because you are pulling yarn through twice. If you notice your increases bunching, try loosening your tension slightly on the second pass through the stitch.
Yarn over (YO) — the decorative increase
A yarn over creates a new stitch by wrapping yarn around the needle, leaving a hole in the fabric. This hole is intentional and decorative in lace patterns, but it also appears in some shaping patterns where the designer wants a visible line of increases. The motion depends on what stitch comes before and after the yarn over, but the basic idea is the same: bring the yarn to the front of your work, then move it to the back over the top of the right needle.
If you are working stockinette (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side) and your pattern says "yarn over", bring the yarn forward between the needles, then knit the next stitch. The yarn is now wrapped around the needle and creates one new stitch. The hole appears directly below the yarn over on the finished fabric.
Yarn overs are common in lace because the holes create the pattern. They also appear in some fitted garments where the designer wants the increases to be visible. If your pattern includes yarn overs but does not explain the motion, check the stitch abbreviations at the top of the pattern — most patterns list exactly how to work a YO depending on the surrounding stitches.
Make one (M1) — the invisible increase
Make one is the most invisible increase because it picks up the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two stitches and knits it. This strand is part of the fabric already, so the new stitch blends in completely. Make one is the standard choice for fitted garments like sweaters and cardigans where you want the shaping to be invisible.
To work a make one, insert your left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. Insert your right needle through the loop on the left needle from back to front (this is the opposite direction from a normal knit stitch) and knit. This twist prevents a hole from forming. Drop the loop off the left needle. You have created one new stitch from the strand between two existing stitches.
The motion takes practice because you are working into the strand rather than into a stitch, and the direction matters. If you knit through the loop in the normal direction (front to back), you will create a small hole. The back-to-front insertion closes the hole and makes the increase disappear. Once you have done it a few times, the motion becomes automatic.
Where to place increases in your pattern
Most patterns tell you exactly where to increase by using abbreviations like "inc 1" or "M1" at specific points in the row. If you are increasing for shaping (like adding stitches for a sleeve cap), the pattern will say something like "increase 1 stitch each side every 4 rows" or "increase 1 stitch at the beginning and end of the next 10 rows."
When a pattern says "increase at each side," it usually means one stitch in from the edge — not in the very first or last stitch of the row. This leaves a clean selvage edge that is easier to seam or pick up stitches from later. If you are increasing in the middle of a piece (like in a raglan sweater), the pattern will mark the exact stitch where the increase belongs.
If you are designing your own increases and the pattern does not specify, place them symmetrically. If you are increasing at both sides of a piece, increase one stitch in from each edge on the same rows. If you are increasing in the middle, space them evenly across the row so the fabric expands uniformly.
Common mistakes when increasing
The most common error is accidentally creating two new stitches when you meant to create one. This happens with KFB if you drop the stitch off the needle too early, or with yarn overs if you wrap the yarn twice. Count your stitches after each increase row until the motion becomes automatic. A stitch counter or a piece of scrap yarn placed in your work every 10 stitches makes it straightforward to spot a missing or extra stitch before you have worked several rows past it.
Another frequent mistake is increasing in the wrong direction with make one. If your increases are creating small holes, you are likely knitting through the loop in the normal direction instead of twisting it. Slow down, insert the needle from back to front, and knit. The hole should close.
Tension problems also show up at increases. If your new stitches are noticeably looser or tighter than the surrounding fabric, adjust your tension on the increase stitch itself. Tighten slightly if the new stitch is too loose, or loosen slightly if it is pulling the fabric. This usually corrects itself after a few rows as the fabric settles.
Increasing on purl rows
All three increase methods work on purl rows too, but the motion changes slightly. For KFB on a purl row, purl into the front loop of the stitch, then purl into the back loop of the same stitch before dropping it. For yarn over on a purl row, bring the yarn to the back between the needles, then purl the next stitch — the yarn is now wrapped around the needle. For make one on a purl row, pick up the strand between stitches and purl through it, twisting the loop by inserting the needle from back to front (the opposite of the normal purl direction).
Most patterns increase on knit rows because the increases are easier to see and control. If your pattern asks you to increase on a purl row, the same rules explore — just reverse the stitch direction. The result looks the same on the finished fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between M1 and KFB?
KFB works into the same stitch twice and leaves a small visible bump. M1 picks up the strand between two stitches and is nearly invisible. Use KFB when you want the increase to show, or when you are a beginner. Use M1 for fitted garments where you want the shaping to blend in.
Do I have to use the increase my pattern specifies?
You can substitute increases if you understand how they change the look of the fabric. Swapping KFB for M1 will make your increases invisible instead of visible. Swapping either for a yarn over will create holes. If you are unsure, follow the pattern as written — the designer chose that increase for a reason.
Why does my yarn over create a hole when the pattern says it should not?
Yarn overs always create holes; that is how they work. If your pattern includes yarn overs but you do not want holes, you are using the wrong increase method. Check the pattern abbreviations to confirm you are reading it correctly. Some patterns use yarn overs for shaping even though the holes are not decorative.
Can I increase more than one stitch at a time?
Yes. To increase two stitches, work two separate increases in the same row — for example, KFB in one stitch, then KFB again in a different stitch. You can also cast on new stitches at the edge of your work using a provisional cast-on or by increasing multiple times in the same stitch, though this is less common in everyday patterns.
What happens if I increase in the wrong place?
Rip back to the row where the increase belongs and redo it. If you only realized the mistake several rows later, you can often drop down to the increase row, fix it, and pick the stitches back up — this is faster than ripping back the whole piece. If you are not comfortable doing this, ripping back is the safest option.