The Three Main Ways to Add Stitches in the Middle of Your Work

You increase stitches by working into the same loop twice instead of once, or by creating a new loop from the yarn between stitches. The most common methods are the knit front and back (KFB), the yarn over, and the make one (M1). Each creates a visible texture or hole, so the method you choose depends on whether you want that detail to show or blend into your fabric.

The difference matters because some increases are decorative—you'll see them in lace patterns and shawls—while others are nearly invisible and work better for shaping sleeves or the sides of a sweater. Your pattern will usually tell you which one to use, but understanding how each works helps you troubleshoot if something looks wrong.

Key Takeaways

  • Knit front and back (KFB) is the fastest increase and creates a small bump; work into the front of the stitch, then the back of the same stitch before slipping it off the needle.
  • Yarn over creates a deliberate hole and is used in lace; straightforward bring the yarn to the front between stitches, then knit the next stitch normally.
  • Make one (M1) is nearly invisible because it uses the strand of yarn between two stitches; lift that strand onto your needle and knit or purl it.
  • Always count your stitches after increasing to confirm you added the right number in the right places.
  • Increases lean left or right depending on how you work them; your pattern specifies which direction to use so the shaping looks balanced.

Knit Front and Back (KFB)

Knit front and back is the simplest increase and the one most beginners learn first. Insert your right needle through the front of the stitch on your left needle and knit it normally. Before you slip that stitch off the left needle, insert your right needle through the back of the same stitch and knit again. Now slip the original stitch off. You have made two stitches from one.

This method creates a small horizontal bump at the base of the new stitch, which is visible but not dramatic. It works well for increases that don't need to disappear into the fabric—like shaping the sides of a baby sweater or adding stitches at the beginning of a row. The bump sits on the right side of your work, so if you want it hidden, work KFB on the wrong side instead.

The main drawback is that KFB can tighten your tension if you're not careful. The stitch you're working into twice gets pulled slightly, so keep your tension relaxed and don't pull the yarn too hard when you complete the second knit.

Yarn Over (YO)

A yarn over creates a deliberate hole and is the standard increase in lace knitting. Bring your yarn to the front of your work (between the needles), then knit the next stitch. The yarn naturally wraps around the needle and creates a new stitch with a hole underneath it. That hole is the point—it's decorative and part of the pattern.

Yarn overs are fast and they don't tighten your tension the way KFB can. They're also the most visible increase, so use them when the pattern calls for them or when you want the shaping to be a design feature rather than invisible. In lace patterns, yarn overs are often paired with decreases (like knit two together) to keep the stitch count the same while creating the openwork texture.

The only common mistake is forgetting to bring the yarn forward before knitting. If you knit without moving the yarn, you'll accidentally create a yarn over anyway, but it will sit in the wrong place and your stitch count will be off. Always move the yarn deliberately and count your stitches at the end of the row.

Make One (M1)

Make one is the most invisible increase because it uses the strand of yarn that already sits between two stitches. Look at the space between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch on your left needle. You'll see a horizontal strand of yarn running between them. Insert your left needle under that strand from front to back, then knit or purl it (depending on what stitch you're working). Slip the strand off your left needle.

Make one is nearly undetectable in stockinette stitch, which makes it ideal for shaping that should blend into the fabric—like increasing for a sleeve cap or the sides of a fitted garment. The increase leans slightly to the left or right depending on which direction you insert your needle. Most patterns specify M1L (make one left) or M1R (make one right) to control which way the increase slants, so the shaping looks balanced on both sides of the garment.

The tricky part is finding that strand, especially if your tension is very tight. If you can't see it clearly, run your finger along the row between stitches and you'll feel the yarn. Once you've done it a few times, your hands learn where to look and it becomes automatic.

When to Increase and How Many Stitches to Add

Your pattern tells you exactly where and how many stitches to increase, usually with abbreviations like "inc 1" or "M1" at specific points in the row. Read the pattern instructions before you start so you know whether increases happen at the edges, in the middle of the row, or scattered throughout. Increases at the edges are often used for shaping (like making a sleeve wider), while increases scattered across a row create texture or lace.

If you're designing your own shaping or adjusting a pattern, increases usually happen every few rows rather than every row. A common rhythm is to increase one stitch on each side of a piece every other row or every fourth row, depending on how gradual you want the shaping to be. Write down exactly where you increased so you can repeat the same spacing on the other side and keep the piece symmetrical.

Fixing Common Mistakes When Increasing

The most common problem is losing track of where you increased, which throws off your stitch count. Count your stitches at the end of every row where you increased, and count again at the end of the next row. If your count is wrong, you'll catch it when ready rather than discovering it three rows later when it's harder to fix.

Another frequent issue is tension problems after KFB. If your increased stitches look noticeably tighter than the rest of your work, you're pulling too hard when you work into the stitch twice. Relax your grip slightly and let the yarn flow more freely. The stitch should feel the same as any other stitch on your needle.

If you worked a yarn over but forgot to move the yarn forward, you'll have an extra stitch but no hole. The easiest fix is to drop that extra stitch off your needle and let it run down one row, then pick it back up. If you don't notice until later, you may need to unravel back to that point. This is why counting stitches when ready after increasing saves time.

Increasing at the Edges Versus in the Middle of Rows

Increases at the edges (usually one or two stitches in from the edge) create a neat selvage and make seaming easier later. Work your edge stitch normally, then increase the next stitch. On the other side of the row, increase one stitch before your edge stitch, then work the edge stitch. This keeps your edges clean and makes it obvious where to seam.

Increases in the middle of rows are used for shaping that needs to be invisible or for creating texture. Make one works best here because it doesn't create a visible bump. If your pattern calls for increases scattered across a row—like in some sweater yokes—space them evenly so the shaping looks balanced. A straightforward way to do this is to count your stitches, divide by the number of increases you need, and increase roughly that many stitches apart.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the difference between M1L and M1R?

M1L (make one left) and M1R (make one right) refer to which direction the increase leans. M1L leans to the left and M1R leans to the right. Patterns use both on opposite sides of a piece so the shaping looks symmetrical. If your pattern doesn't specify, either works, but matching both sides looks more polished.

Can I use any increase method in any pattern?

Not always. Lace patterns require yarn overs because the holes are part of the design. Fitted garments usually call for make one because it's invisible. Your pattern specifies which method to use, and switching methods changes how the fabric looks and how the shaping sits. Follow the pattern's instructions for the best result.

Do I count the new stitch right away or after I finish the row?

Count after you finish the entire row. Counting mid-row can confuse you about which stitches you've already worked. Once the row is complete, count all stitches on your needle to confirm you increased the right number.

Why does my increased stitch look loose or sloppy?

Loose increases usually mean you're not pulling the yarn tight enough when you complete the new stitch. After you work the increase, give the yarn a gentle tug to snug up the new stitch. It should feel the same tension as the stitches around it. If it's still loose, you may be working too loosely overall—try going down a needle size.

What if I increased in the wrong place?

If you notice the mistake in the same row, drop the extra stitch off your needle and let it run down to the row below, then pick it back up and unravel it. If you don't notice until later, you'll need to unravel back to that row. This is why counting stitches when ready after increasing catches mistakes before they become a bigger problem.