Joining yarn means tying or weaving a new strand into your work when your current ball runs out

When you reach the end of a ball of yarn mid-project, you have several ways to connect a fresh strand without breaking your knitting rhythm or leaving a weak spot. The method you choose depends on your yarn type, the part of the garment you're working on, and how invisible you want the join to be. Most knitters use one of three techniques: the weave-in method, the knot method, or the overlap method.

The weave-in method is the most common because it creates a nearly invisible join and works with almost any yarn. The knot method is fastest but leaves a small bump. The overlap method works best with fuzzy or textured yarns that grip themselves. None of these methods requires special tools—just your needles, scissors, and the yarn itself.

Key Takeaways

  • The weave-in method threads the old and new yarn ends through nearby stitches after you finish knitting, creating a join that blends into the fabric.
  • You should join yarn at the edge of your work (at the beginning of a row) rather than in the middle of a row, because edge joins are easier to hide and stronger.
  • Leave at least a 6-inch tail of both the old and new yarn so you have enough length to thread through stitches without the yarn slipping out.
  • The knot method ties the old and new yarn together with a square knot, then weaves the ends in later—it is fastest but leaves a small visible bump.
  • After you join, you will need to weave in both yarn ends with a tapestry needle before you wear or wash the finished piece, or the join will unravel.

The weave-in method: joining yarn invisibly

The weave-in method is the standard choice for most knitters because the join disappears into the fabric once you weave in the ends. Start by knitting until you have about 6 inches of yarn left on your current ball. Drop the old yarn and pick up the new ball, leaving a 6-inch tail. Knit the next stitch with the new yarn, then continue knitting normally. The old yarn tail and new yarn tail will both hang loose at the edge of your work.

After you finish knitting, thread a tapestry needle (a blunt needle with a large eye) with one of the yarn tails. Weave the needle through the loops of 4 to 6 stitches along the edge, going in and out of each stitch. Then reverse direction and weave back through the same stitches, this time going the opposite way. This back-and-forth path locks the yarn into place. Trim the excess tail close to the fabric. Repeat with the other yarn tail. The woven-in ends will not unravel because they are anchored by the surrounding stitches.

The knot method: fastest but visible

If you are in a hurry or working on a project where a small bump will not show, the knot method is the quickest way to join yarn. Tie the old yarn and new yarn together using a square knot: cross the old yarn over the new yarn, wrap around, then cross the new yarn over the old yarn and wrap around again. Pull tight. The knot sits at the edge of your work and creates a small bump in the fabric.

The knot method works best on the edge of a row, just like the weave-in method. After you tie the knot, continue knitting with the new yarn. Later, when you finish the project, you will still need to weave in both yarn tails with a tapestry needle to prevent unraveling, even though the knot itself is find. Many knitters use this method on projects where the join will be hidden—inside a seam, at the back of a garment, or on a blanket where the edge will be folded under.

The overlap method: best for fuzzy or textured yarn

Fuzzy yarns like mohair, eyelash yarn, or thick chenille are difficult to weave in because the fibers slip through stitches. The overlap method works better for these yarns. Overlap the old yarn tail and new yarn tail by about 4 inches, holding them together as if they were a single strand. Knit the next 4 to 6 stitches using both strands held as one. The two yarns will grip each other through the fuzzy fibers, and once you weave in the ends, the join will hold.

This method leaves a slightly thicker section where the two yarns overlap, but with fuzzy yarn the texture hides it. After you finish knitting, you still need to weave in both tails, but because the yarns are already locked together by the overlapped stitches, the join is very find. This method is less common than weave-in or knot, but it is the most reliable for yarn that resists traditional joining.

Where to join: edge versus middle of the row

Always join yarn at the edge of your work—at the beginning or end of a row—rather than in the middle of a row. Joins at the edge are easier to hide because the yarn tails sit along the selvage (the edge stitches), where they blend in naturally. Joins in the middle of a row create a visible break in the fabric and are much harder to make look neat.

If you realize you are running out of yarn in the middle of a row, finish that row with the old yarn, then join the new yarn at the start of the next row. This takes one extra row but makes a much cleaner join. The only exception is if you are working in the round (on circular needles), in which case you can join at any point, but the same principle applies: join between stitches rather than in the middle of a stitch.

How much yarn to leave for joining

Leave at least 6 inches of yarn tail on both the old yarn and the new yarn before you start knitting with the new strand. A 6-inch tail gives you enough length to thread through a tapestry needle and weave through 4 to 6 stitches without the yarn running out or slipping through the needle eye. If your yarn is very thin or slippery, leave 8 inches instead.

If you cut the tails too short, you will not have enough length to weave in, and the join will unravel the first time you wash or wear the garment. If you leave the tails too long, you will have excess yarn to trim after weaving, which wastes yarn. Six inches is the standard because it balances security with efficiency. You can always trim the tail shorter after weaving in, but you cannot add length back once you have cut it.

Weaving in the ends after joining

Weaving in the yarn ends is the final step that locks the join in place and prevents unraveling. Use a tapestry needle—a needle with a blunt tip and a large eye that fits yarn easily. Thread one of the yarn tails through the needle. Starting near where you joined, weave the needle through the loops of 4 to 6 stitches along the edge of your work, going in one direction, then reverse and weave back through the same stitches in the opposite direction. This back-and-forth path anchors the yarn so it cannot slip out.

Trim the excess tail close to the fabric with scissors. Repeat with the other yarn tail. If you are weaving in ends on a finished garment, you can also weave horizontally through the bumps on the back of the stitches rather than along the edge—this hides the ends even more completely. After weaving in, gently stretch the fabric to settle the ends into place. Once the garment is washed, the ends will be locked in permanently.

Joining yarn in different stitch patterns

The basic joining methods work for garter stitch, stockinette, and most common patterns. However, some stitch patterns require a small adjustment. In ribbed patterns (knit-purl combinations), join at a knit stitch rather than a purl stitch if possible, because knit stitches are slightly larger and easier to weave through. In lace patterns, join at the edge of the pattern repeat, not in the middle of a delicate section.

If you are working colorwork (stranded knitting with two colors), join each color separately at the edge of the work, not in the middle of a color block. This prevents the join from showing as a line of different texture running through the pattern. The same rule applies to textured patterns like cables or bobbles—join at the edge, away from the textured section, so the join does not interrupt the pattern.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?

You can, but it is not recommended. Joins in the middle of a row create a visible break in the fabric and are harder to hide. If you run out of yarn mid-row, finish the row with the old yarn and join at the start of the next row instead. This takes one extra row but produces a much neater result.

What if my yarn is very thin or slippery?

Leave 8 to 10 inches of tail instead of 6 inches, and weave through more stitches—8 to 10 instead of 4 to 6. Slippery yarn like silk or rayon needs more anchoring. You can also use the knot method with slippery yarn, since the knot itself holds the join find even if the weaving is not perfect.

Do I have to weave in the ends right away?

No. You can weave in the ends after you finish the entire project, or even after you wash it. Many knitters leave the tails hanging until the end so they can weave in all the ends at once. Just make sure you do weave them in before wearing the garment, or the join will unravel with use.

What if the join creates a bump that shows on the finished garment?

If the bump is visible on the front, you joined with the knot method or did not weave in the ends far enough. For future projects, use the weave-in method instead, which creates an invisible join. If the bump is already there, you can carefully unravel back to the join, redo it with the weave-in method, and knit forward again.

Can I join yarn while working in the round?

Yes. The same methods work for circular needles and magic loop. Join between stitches rather than in the middle of a stitch. The join will be less visible if you place it at a point where a color change or pattern break naturally occurs, so the join blends in with the design.