Casting On for Circular Needles and Double-Pointed Needles

To knit in the round, you first cast on stitches using the same methods you would for flat knitting — long-tail cast-on, cable cast-on, or any other technique you know. The difference comes after: instead of working back and forth in rows, you join those stitches into a circle and knit continuously around. The cast-on itself stays the same; what changes is what you do next.

Cast on the number of stitches your pattern calls for, using either circular needles or double-pointed needles. If you are using circular needles, distribute the stitches evenly around the cable. If you are using double-pointed needles (usually four or five needles), divide the stitches roughly equally among three or four of the needles, leaving one needle free to work with.

Key Takeaways

  • Cast on using any method you already know, then join the stitches into a circle by knitting the first stitch of the round with the working yarn attached to the last cast-on stitch.
  • Mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker so you know where each new round starts and can count rounds accurately.
  • The first few stitches after joining are prone to loose tension; knit them firmly and tighten the working yarn as you go around.
  • Circular needles work best for projects with many stitches; double-pointed needles are better for small circumferences like sleeves, hats, and socks.
  • Check that your cast-on stitches are not twisted around the needle before you join, or your finished piece will have a permanent spiral.

Checking for Twists Before You Join

Before you join the stitches into a circle, lay your needle flat and look at the cast-on edge. The stitches should all face the same direction — the bumps of the cast-on should form a straight line, not spiral around the needle. If the stitches are twisted, unravel and recast.

This step takes 10 seconds and prevents a problem that cannot be fixed later. Once you have knitted even one full round with twisted stitches, the twist is locked in and your finished piece will have a permanent spiral running through it.

Joining the Circle with Your First Stitch

Hold the needle so the working yarn (the yarn attached to your ball) hangs from the last cast-on stitch. The first cast-on stitch should be on the left side of the needle. Knit into the first stitch using the working yarn, pulling it snug. You have now joined the stitches into a circle.

This first stitch is often loose because the yarn has to travel across the gap between the last stitch and the first stitch. Tighten it by pulling the working yarn firmly after you complete the stitch. Some knitters pull the yarn extra tight on the first three or four stitches of the round to close any gaps at the join.

Placing a Stitch Marker at the Round Start

when ready after you knit the first stitch, place a stitch marker on the right needle, right after that first stitch. This marker shows you where each round begins and ends. Slip it from the left needle to the right needle as you work each round — never knit it.

Without a marker, you will lose track of where the round starts, especially in stockinette stitch where all the rows look identical. A straightforward loop of contrasting yarn works as well as a purchased marker. Move the marker every time you complete a round and return to it.

Working the First Few Rounds

Knit the first full round, working each stitch firmly. Pay attention to the tension where you joined: the yarn should be snug but not so tight that the stitches bunch. If the gap at the join is still loose after the first round, tighten those stitches on the second round by pulling the working yarn a little harder as you work them.

By the third round, the tension usually evens out. The join itself will never be completely invisible, but it becomes much less noticeable once you have a few rounds of fabric above it. If you are making a hat or a sock cuff, the join will eventually be hidden inside a fold or seam.

Switching Between Circular and Double-Pointed Needles

Circular needles work well for projects with a large circumference — sweater bodies, blankets, and large hats. The stitches spread out around the cable, and you can work comfortably without crowding. Double-pointed needles are better for small circumferences like sleeves, socks, and the crowns of hats, where a circular needle would be too long and the stitches would slide off.

The joining process is identical for both. With double-pointed needles, you may find it easier to use a needle tip from one of your working needles to knit the first stitch, rather than a separate working needle. This keeps all your needles in the set and reduces the number of needle tips you have to manage.

Common Mistakes When Joining

The most common mistake is not checking for twists before joining. The second is casting on too loosely, which creates a gap at the join that never fully closes. Cast on with slightly tighter tension than you normally would, or use a needle one size smaller for the cast-on row, then switch to your working needle size for the first round.

A third mistake is not tightening the working yarn after the join. The first stitch of the round will be loose if you do not pull the yarn firmly. Some knitters also forget to move the stitch marker each round, which defeats its purpose. Develop the habit of moving it as soon as you see it on the left needle.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I accidentally twisted my stitches before joining?

Unravel back to the cast-on row and recast. It is faster than knitting a twisted piece and frogging it later. If you have already knitted a few rounds, you can still fix it by carefully unraveling those rounds and recasting, but the sooner you catch it, the less work you lose.

Can I join using a different cast-on method?

Yes. Long-tail, cable, provisional, and most other cast-on methods work for round knitting. Some knitters prefer the long-tail cast-on because it creates a neat edge. The join itself is the same regardless of which cast-on you use.

Why is the first stitch after joining always loose?

The yarn has to travel across the gap between the last cast-on stitch and the first stitch, which creates slack. Tighten it by pulling the working yarn firmly after you complete the stitch. This is normal and expected — it becomes less noticeable after a few rounds.

Do I need a special stitch marker for round knitting?

No. Any stitch marker works — purchased markers, safety pins, loops of contrasting yarn, or even a knot. The marker just needs to be something you can slip from needle to needle without losing. Some knitters use a different color marker to track pattern repeats in addition to the round marker.

What happens if I forget to move the stitch marker?

You will lose track of where the round starts and may miscounts rounds or miss the beginning of a decrease round. If you notice you forgot to move it, count back to find where the previous round actually ended and move the marker to the correct spot. Then move it every round going forward.