The most practical join depends on where you are in your project
You join yarn mid-project when your current strand runs out or when you are switching colors. The best method depends on whether you are in the middle of a row, at the end of a row, or starting a new section. Some joins are nearly invisible; others are functional but visible. Some hold through washing; others work only for decorative yarn. Knowing which join to use where saves you from unraveling work or discovering a weak spot after you have finished.
The four most common joins are the Russian join (for mid-row work), the spit splice (for similar fibers), the weaver's knot (for different yarn weights), and the straightforward tie-on (for the end of a row or color changes). Each takes two to five minutes and requires only your needles and the two yarn ends.
Key Takeaways
- The Russian join works mid-row and leaves almost no bulk because it threads one yarn through the other without tying a knot.
- The spit splice fuses similar fibers together by dampening and rubbing them, and it works only on animal fibers like wool or alpaca.
- The weaver's knot is the strongest join for different yarn weights and holds through washing, but it creates a small knot that may show in fine gauge work.
- Tying on at the end of a row is the fastest method and works for color changes, though the knot sits at the edge where it is easier to hide.
The Russian join for mid-row work
The Russian join is the standard choice when you run out of yarn in the middle of a row because it creates almost no bulk and sits inside your stitches. Thread a tapestry needle with the old yarn end (the one you just finished knitting with). Insert the needle through the loops of the new yarn, going in one end and out the other, roughly two inches along the strand. Pull gently so the new yarn bends slightly. Now thread the tapestry needle with the new yarn end and repeat the process in reverse, threading it back through the loops of the old yarn. Pull both ends snug. The two strands now grip each other and will not slip.
This join works best with yarn that has some texture or twist — smooth, slippery yarn like silk or nylon can slip apart. Test the join by pulling hard on both ends before you continue knitting. If either end slides, thread the needle again and make a second pass through each strand. Once you start knitting with the new yarn, the stitches will anchor both ends and the join becomes nearly impossible to see.
The spit splice for animal fibers
The spit splice works only on yarn made from animal fibers — wool, alpaca, mohair, angora, and blends that contain them. It does not work on cotton, acrylic, or plant fibers. Overlap the two yarn ends by about two inches. Dampen both strands with water or saliva (hence the name). Rub the overlapped section between your palms or on a towel with firm, steady pressure for 30 to 60 seconds. The friction causes the fibers to felt together and bond into a single strand. Once dry, the join is permanent and will not come apart even through washing and drying.
The spit splice creates the least bulk of any join and is nearly invisible in the finished fabric. It works mid-row, at the end of a row, or when starting a new color. The only drawback is that it takes a minute or two and requires the yarn to be slightly damp. If you are working with a blend that is part synthetic, test the join on a scrap first — some blends do not felt reliably.
The weaver's knot for durability across yarn types
The weaver's knot is the strongest join and works with any yarn type, including blends and synthetics. It is the best choice when you are joining two very different yarn weights or when you need absolute certainty the join will hold through washing. Make a loop with the old yarn. Insert the new yarn through the loop from underneath. Wrap the new yarn around the base of the loop, then back through the loop from underneath again. Pull both ends of the new yarn snug, then pull the old yarn ends to tighten the knot. The result is a small, flat knot that sits at the join point.
The weaver's knot holds through repeated washing and is nearly impossible to accidentally pull apart. The trade-off is that it creates a small, visible knot. In lace or fine-gauge work, this knot may show or create a slight bump in the fabric. For this reason, many knitters use the weaver's knot only when joining at the end of a row or when the join will sit in a seam or edge that will be hidden. If you are joining mid-row in visible fabric, the Russian join or spit splice is usually the better choice.
Tying on at the end of a row or for color changes
The simplest join is to tie the old and new yarn together with a square knot at the end of a row. Lay the two ends parallel. Cross the old yarn over the new yarn and pull through to make a half-knot. Cross the new yarn over the old yarn and pull through to complete the square knot. Snug it tight. Trim the ends to about half an inch. On the next row, you will knit over the knot, and it will sit at the edge of your fabric where it is easier to hide in a seam or weave in later.
This method is fastest and works well for color changes or when you are joining at a natural break in your pattern. The knot is visible and creates a small bump, so it is not ideal for stockinette stitch or other smooth, flat fabrics. Many knitters use this method for blankets, scarves, and projects where a small knot at the edge is acceptable. If you are working in the round or cannot tie on at a row edge, use one of the other methods instead.
Hiding the yarn ends after you join
No matter which join you use, you will have two short yarn ends to deal with. Some knitters trim them when ready; others leave them until the project is finished. If you trim right away, leave at least half an inch so the end does not unravel. If you leave them, weave them in with a tapestry needle once you have finished knitting. Thread the needle with one end and run it through the backs of five to eight stitches in the same color, then back through a few stitches in the opposite direction. This anchors the end so it will not pull free. Repeat with the second end.
For the Russian join and spit splice, the ends are already anchored by the join itself, so you can trim them very short — even flush with the yarn. For the weaver's knot and square knot, leave a bit more length and weave them in, because these knots can slip if the ends are too short. If you are working with a dark yarn on a light background or vice versa, weave the ends through stitches of the same color so they do not show.
Choosing the right join for your project
The best join depends on three things: where you are in your project, what yarn you are using, and how much the join will show. If you are mid-row in stockinette stitch or lace, use the Russian join or spit splice. If you are at the end of a row or making a color change, tying on is fastest. If you need the join to survive hard washing or you are joining very different yarn weights, use the weaver's knot. If you are unsure, practice on a scrap of the same yarn first — most joins take only a few minutes to learn, and a test run will show you which method feels most natural for your hands.
Keep a tapestry needle and scissors in your knitting bag so you can join yarn anywhere. Most joins do not require special tools, but a tapestry needle makes the Russian join and spit splice much faster. Once you have tried each method, you will likely develop a preference and use the same join for most projects. There is no single "right" way — the right way is the one that works for your yarn, your hands, and the place where the join sits in your fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use the Russian join with thin or delicate yarn?
The Russian join works best with yarn that has some grip or texture. Very thin, slippery yarn like silk or fine nylon may not hold. Test the join by pulling hard on both ends before you knit. If either end slides, use the weaver's knot instead, or make a second pass through each strand with the tapestry needle to increase the grip.
What if I run out of yarn in the middle of a row and do not have a tapestry needle?
You can tie a square knot with the two ends and continue knitting. The knot will sit in the middle of your row and create a small bump, but it will hold. Once you finish, weave the ends in with a tapestry needle. This is not ideal for fine work, but it works in a pinch for blankets or textured yarn where a small knot will not show.
Does the spit splice work on acrylic yarn?
No. The spit splice works only on animal fibers like wool, alpaca, and mohair. Acrylic and plant fibers like cotton do not felt. Use the Russian join or weaver's knot instead.
Will the weaver's knot come loose if I pull on it?
A properly tied weaver's knot will not come loose with normal use or washing. Pull both ends snug when you tie it. If you are worried, you can tie a second knot on top of the first one, though this creates more bulk and is rarely necessary.
Can I join yarn at the beginning of a project instead of casting on with two strands?
Yes. Cast on with one strand, knit a few rows, then join the second strand using any of these methods. This is useful when you want to change colors after the first few rows or when you are not sure how much yarn you will need. The join will sit a few rows up from the cast-on edge and is straightforward to hide in a seam or weave in later.