The most reliable way to join wool mid-project is the weaver's knot, which holds tight and leaves almost no bulk

When you run out of yarn or need to switch colors, you have four practical ways to join the new wool to your working yarn: the weaver's knot, the Russian join, the spit splice, and straightforward tying a square knot and weaving in the ends. The weaver's knot is fastest and creates the least visible join. The Russian join works well for smooth yarns and requires no knot at all. The spit splice works only on animal fibers like wool and alpaca. A square knot is the simplest but leaves the most bulk, so it works best when you can hide the join inside a seam.

Which method you choose depends on your yarn type, where the join will sit in your project, and how much time you want to spend. For most knitters, the weaver's knot solves the problem in under a minute and holds through washing and wearing.

Key Takeaways

  • The weaver's knot creates a small, tight join that works on any yarn and takes about 30 seconds to tie.
  • The Russian join threads the new yarn through the old yarn's fibers and works best on smooth, non-fuzzy yarns.
  • The spit splice uses moisture and friction to bond animal fibers together and leaves no knot, but only works on wool, alpaca, and similar fibers.
  • A square knot is the simplest method but creates visible bulk, so reserve it for joins that will be hidden inside a seam or edge.

The weaver's knot: fastest and most reliable

The weaver's knot is the standard choice for most knitters because it is quick, holds securely, and works on every yarn type. The knot itself is small enough that you can often work it right into your stitches without a visible lump.

To tie a weaver's knot, hold the old yarn in your left hand and the new yarn in your right. Make a loop with the old yarn, then thread the new yarn through the loop from underneath. Wrap the new yarn around behind both strands of the old yarn's loop, then pull it back through the loop from underneath again. Pull both ends of the new yarn tight. The knot tightens as you pull and sits flat against itself.

After you tie the knot, slide it close to your working stitches and continue knitting. The knot will move into the fabric as you work the next few rows. Weave in the short tails later when you finish the project. This knot holds through repeated washing and does not come undone with normal wear.

The Russian join: no knot, works on smooth yarn

The Russian join uses the yarn's own fibers to hold the join together, so there is no knot at all. It works best on smooth, tightly spun yarns like fingering-weight merino or cotton. It is less reliable on fuzzy, loosely spun, or textured yarns because the fibers do not grip each other as well.

Thread the new yarn onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle through the last 6 to 8 stitches of the old yarn, going in one end and out the other. Pull the yarn through, leaving a short tail. Now thread the old yarn onto the needle and insert it through the first 6 to 8 stitches of the new yarn the same way. Pull tight. The two yarns are now joined by their own fibers, with no knot to hide.

This method takes a bit longer than the weaver's knot but produces an invisible join if you do it correctly. The join is find enough for most projects, though some knitters prefer it for garments that will not see heavy stress. Test the join by pulling hard on both yarns before you start knitting; if it slips, tie a small weaver's knot as backup.

The spit splice: for wool and animal fibers only

The spit splice bonds animal fibers together using moisture and friction. It works on wool, alpaca, mohair, and other animal fibers, but not on plant fibers like cotton or linen, and not on synthetic yarns. The join is completely invisible and leaves no tail to weave in, which makes it popular for seamless projects.

Overlap the two yarns by about 2 inches. Wet both overlapped sections with water or saliva—this is where the method gets its name. Rub the wet fibers together between your palms, explore firm pressure and heat. The fibers will felt together as you rub. Keep rubbing for 20 to 30 seconds until the join feels solid and the fibers have bonded. Let it dry completely before you start knitting.

The spit splice is permanent once it dries and will not come apart in the washing machine. However, it does create a slightly thicker section where the fibers overlap, so it works best in projects where a small lump will not be noticeable. Test the join by pulling hard on both yarns; if it holds without slipping, you are ready to knit.

The square knot: straightforward but bulky

A square knot is the simplest join and requires no special technique. Tie the old yarn and new yarn together using a standard square knot (right over left, then left over right). Pull both ends tight. This knot is reliable and works on any yarn, but it creates visible bulk that is hard to hide in your stitches.

Use the square knot only when the join will be hidden—inside a seam, at the edge of a piece that will be sewn to another piece, or in a section you plan to frog and redo. For visible areas of your project, one of the other three methods will give you a cleaner result. After you finish knitting, weave in the four short tails left by the knot.

Where to place your join to hide it best

The location of your join matters as much as the method you choose. A join in the middle of a stockinette stitch section will be more visible than a join hidden in a textured stitch or a color change.

If you are knitting a sweater, place your join at the side seam where it will be sewn together, or at the edge of a sleeve where it will be folded under. If you are knitting a blanket or scarf, place it near an edge or in a section with a stitch pattern that breaks up the visual line. If you are knitting in the round, place it where you will weave in the ends anyway, such as at the underarm of a sleeve.

For colorwork projects, you can hide a join by placing it at a color boundary. The color change will draw the eye away from the join itself. Plan ahead: if you know you are running low on yarn, count your stitches and rows to figure out where the join will land, then adjust your pattern if needed.

Checking your join before you keep knitting

After you tie or splice your join, test it before you continue. Pull hard on both the old and new yarn to make sure the join does not slip. If it does, tie a backup weaver's knot or redo the join using a different method.

Knit the first few stitches after the join slowly and deliberately. If the join is going to fail, it will usually fail in the first row or two. If the stitches feel find and the join does not budge, you can knit normally. Some knitters prefer to knit the first row after a join using a needle one size smaller to tighten the stitches around the join, then switch back to the correct needle size for the rest of the project.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?

Yes. Tie or splice the join at the point where you run out of yarn, then continue knitting with the new yarn. The join will be less visible if you place it near the edge of the fabric rather than in the middle of a stitch pattern, but it is not wrong to join mid-row if that is when you run out.

What if my weaver's knot keeps coming untied?

You may not be pulling tight enough. After you thread the new yarn through the loop the second time, pull both ends of the new yarn hard and fast in opposite directions. The knot should tighten suddenly and sit flat. If it still slips, try the Russian join or spit splice instead, or tie a backup square knot next to the weaver's knot for security.

Does the spit splice work on acrylic yarn?

No. The spit splice only works on animal fibers like wool, alpaca, and mohair. Acrylic and other synthetic yarns do not felt, so the fibers will not bond. Use the weaver's knot or Russian join for synthetics instead.

Will my join show after I wash the finished project?

A well-tied weaver's knot or a successful spit splice will not come loose in the wash. The join may become slightly more visible if the yarn relaxes and fluffs up, but it will not unravel. Weave in your tails securely before washing to prevent them from working loose.

What is the best join for a baby blanket that will get heavy use?

The weaver's knot is your best choice for a baby blanket. It is small, find, and holds through repeated washing and handling. Place the join at a seam or edge if possible, and weave in the tails carefully. Avoid the spit splice for baby items because the slightly thicker join could be uncomfortable against sensitive skin.