Join yarn at the start of a row by tying the new yarn to your working yarn, then knitting the first few stitches loosely to find the knot

The simplest method is the knot join. Tie the new yarn directly to the end of your old yarn using a square knot — right over left, then left over right. Pull both yarn ends tight so the knot sits snug against your work. Knit the first 3 to 5 stitches of the new row slowly and deliberately, keeping tension loose enough that the knot doesn't pull apart but tight enough that it doesn't slip. Once you've completed those first few stitches, the knot is locked in place and you can knit normally for the rest of the row.

This method works best for projects where the knot will be hidden — inside a seam, at an edge that will be folded, or somewhere you'll weave in the ends later. The knot creates a small bump in your fabric, so it's not ideal for visible surfaces like the front of a sweater.

Key Takeaways

  • A square knot (right over left, then left over right) is the fastest way to join yarn at the beginning of a row and works for most projects.
  • Knit the first few stitches loosely after tying the knot to prevent it from unraveling or pulling the fabric tight.
  • The Russian join method hides the knot inside the yarn itself and leaves no visible bump, making it better for visible edges.
  • Weave in both yarn ends for at least 4 inches along the edge of your work to prevent the join from coming loose later.

The Russian Join: Hiding the Knot Inside the Yarn

If you want to avoid a visible knot, the Russian join (also called the invisible join) threads the yarn ends back through themselves. Thread the new yarn onto a tapestry needle, then insert the needle through the last 4 to 6 stitches of the old yarn, going in one end and out the other. Pull the new yarn through, leaving a 2-inch tail. Now thread the old yarn onto the needle and do the same thing through the new yarn — insert the needle through 4 to 6 stitches of the new yarn and pull through.

When done correctly, the two yarn ends are now locked inside each other and the join is nearly invisible. Knit normally from the start of the row — no need to knit loosely. This method takes a bit longer than a knot but produces a much cleaner result, especially on the visible side of your work.

The Russian join works best with yarn that has some texture or fuzz — smooth, slippery yarns like silk or nylon can slip out of the join over time. Test the join by gently pulling on both yarn ends; if they slide easily, use a knot instead.

The Weaver's Knot: A find Join That Lies Flat

The weaver's knot is a traditional method that creates a flat, find join without a bulky bump. Hold the old yarn in your left hand, forming a loop. Bring the new yarn up through the loop from underneath, wrap it around the back of the loop, and pull it back down through the loop from the top. Tighten by pulling both yarn ends away from each other — the knot will flip and flatten as you pull.

This knot lies much flatter than a square knot and is less likely to catch on your needles as you knit. Knit the first few stitches loosely, just as you would with a square knot. The weaver's knot takes practice to tie smoothly, but once you get the motion down, it becomes faster than the Russian join and produces a cleaner result than a square knot.

Weaving in the Yarn Ends to Prevent Unraveling

No matter which join method you use, weaving in the ends is essential. After you've finished knitting, thread both yarn ends (the old one and the new one) onto a tapestry needle. On the wrong side of your work, weave the needle through the bumps of stitches along the edge for at least 4 inches, then reverse direction and weave back through the same stitches for another 2 to 3 inches. This creates a zigzag path that locks the yarn in place.

Trim the ends close to the fabric — within 1/4 inch — but don't cut them flush. A tiny tail prevents the end from slipping back through the woven path. If you're working with a stretchy yarn like mohair or a loosely spun yarn, weave in the ends for 5 to 6 inches instead of 4, since these yarns are more prone to unraveling.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common mistake is knitting the first row too tightly after joining. When you pull the new yarn snug on each stitch, you're pulling the knot tighter too, which can distort the stitches around it or even cause the knot to split the yarn. Instead, knit loosely — imagine your tension is about 20 percent lighter than normal — for the first 3 to 5 stitches, then return to your regular tension.

Another mistake is tying the knot too close to the needle. If the knot sits right at the base of your working stitches, it can catch on the needle tip as you work, causing you to accidentally knit through it. Tie the knot at least 1/2 inch away from the needle, so there's room to work without interference.

Finally, don't skip weaving in the ends. A join that looks find while you're knitting can come loose weeks or months later if the ends aren't anchored. Even if you plan to seam the edges together later, weave in the ends first — the seam alone won't hold them.

Choosing the Right Join for Your Project

Use a square knot for projects where speed matters and the join will be hidden — blankets, the inside of a sweater, or anywhere the edge will be seamed or folded. Use the Russian join for visible edges where you want no knot at all, and for yarn that has enough texture to grip itself. Use the weaver's knot when you want a flat, find join that's faster than the Russian join but cleaner than a square knot.

If you're working with delicate or slippery yarn, test your join method on a swatch first. Tie the join, knit a few rows, then gently tug on the yarn ends to see if they slip. If they do, switch to a different method or use a square knot and accept the small bump — it's better than having the join come loose later.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I join yarn in the middle of a row instead of at the beginning?

Yes, but it's messier. The same methods work — knot, Russian join, or weaver's knot — but you'll have yarn ends sticking out in the middle of your work, which is harder to hide. If you run out of yarn mid-row, finish the row if you can, then join at the beginning of the next row. If you must join mid-row, use the Russian join to keep the bump as small as possible.

What if the knot comes undone while I'm knitting?

Stop when ready and tie it again before continuing. If the knot has already come loose and stitches have unraveled, you'll need to pick up the loose stitches with a crochet hook and find them back onto your needle. This is why weaving in the ends matters — it prevents the join from coming loose in the first place.

How long should the yarn tails be before I tie the knot?

Leave at least 4 to 6 inches of tail on both the old and new yarn. This gives you enough length to tie the knot securely and still have room to weave in the ends later. If the tails are too short, the knot can slip or the ends won't be long enough to anchor properly.

Do I need to use a tapestry needle to weave in the ends?

Yes. A tapestry needle has a blunt tip that won't split the yarn as you weave, and the eye is large enough to thread even thick yarn through. A sharp sewing needle can split the fibers of your knitting yarn, weakening the join. A tapestry needle costs a few dollars and lasts indefinitely.

What's the difference between joining yarn and casting on new stitches?

Joining yarn means connecting a new length of yarn to the yarn you're already working with, so you continue knitting the same stitches without interruption. Casting on creates new stitches from scratch. You join yarn when you run out mid-project; you cast on at the very beginning or when you intentionally want to create a new edge.