Joining yarn means tying a new strand to your working yarn so you can keep knitting when your current ball runs out or you want to change colors

The most common method is the weaver's knot, which creates a small, tight join that sits flat in your fabric. You tie the two yarn ends together, then weave the loose ends back through your stitches so they disappear into the knit. This takes about two minutes per join and works for almost any yarn weight.

Other methods include the Russian join (threading yarn through itself with a needle), the spit splice (wetting and rubbing wool fibers together), and straightforward knotting (fastest but leaves a bump). Which one you choose depends on your yarn fiber, how visible the join will be, and how much time you want to spend.

Key Takeaways

  • The weaver's knot is the most reliable join for all yarn types and creates a knot small enough to hide inside your stitches.
  • You should join yarn at the edge of your work (at the beginning of a row or round) rather than in the middle, so the knot sits where it is easiest to hide.
  • After tying the knot, thread both loose yarn ends through a tapestry needle and weave them back through 4 to 6 stitches in opposite directions to find them.
  • The Russian join works only on wool and other fuzzy fibers that felt slightly when rubbed together, not on smooth yarns like cotton or acrylic.

The Weaver's Knot: Step by Step

Start with about 4 inches of loose yarn from your current ball and 4 inches from the new ball. Lay them in an X shape, with the old yarn on top. Wrap the old yarn around the new yarn once, going under and around to the right. Then wrap the new yarn around the old yarn once, going under and around to the left. Pull both yarn ends tight. The knot should be small and sit flat—if it is lumpy, you tied it backwards.

Slide the knot up to your working stitches. If you are in the middle of a row, finish that row first, then join at the start of the next row. Cut the loose ends down to about 1 inch each. Thread one end into a tapestry needle and weave it back through 4 to 6 stitches, going in and out of the loops. Do the same with the other end, weaving in the opposite direction. Trim any remaining tail.

This method works on all yarn weights and fibers. The join sits inside your fabric and is nearly invisible once the ends are woven in. Practice on a swatch first—the knot gets easier after you tie three or four.

The Russian Join for Wool and Fuzzy Yarns

The Russian join uses no knot at all. Thread the end of your old yarn through a tapestry needle. Insert the needle into the new yarn about 1 inch from its end, going lengthwise through the center of the yarn strand (not through the ply, but through the middle). Pull the needle out and trim the old yarn close to where it exits the new yarn. The old yarn should now be buried inside the new yarn.

Repeat with the new yarn: thread it through the needle, insert it into the old yarn, and pull it out. Trim close. Gently rub the join between your fingers for a few seconds. On wool and other fuzzy fibers, the fibers will felt slightly and lock the join in place. This method leaves no knot and no loose ends to weave in.

Do not use this method on smooth fibers like cotton, acrylic, or silk—the yarn will not felt and the join will slip apart. It also works poorly on very thin yarns or lace-weight yarn, where the center is too narrow to thread a needle through.

The Spit Splice: Fastest for Wool

Overlap the end of your old yarn and the end of your new yarn by about 2 inches. Wet both overlapped ends with water or saliva (hence the name). Rub them together between your palms or on your leg for 10 to 15 seconds. The friction and moisture cause the wool fibers to felt together. Once dry, the join is permanent and nearly invisible.

This method is the fastest and leaves no knot or loose ends. It works only on wool and other animal fibers that felt when wet and rubbed. It does not work on plant fibers (cotton, linen) or synthetics (acrylic, polyester). The join is also slightly thicker than the rest of the yarn, so it may show in stockinette stitch or other smooth stitches.

straightforward Knotting: When Speed Matters Most

Tie the two yarn ends together with a straightforward overhand knot or a square knot. Pull it tight. This takes 10 seconds and works on any yarn. The downside is that the knot creates a visible bump in your fabric, so it is best used on textured stitches like garter stitch, ribbing, or cables where the bump blends in.

You can also tie the knot on the wrong side of your work if you are making something where the back will not be seen. Trim the loose ends to about half an inch. This method is practical for practice swatches or projects where appearance matters less than speed.

Where to Join: Edges, Not the Middle

Always join yarn at the edge of your work—at the start of a new row or round—rather than in the middle of a row. A join in the middle of your stitches is harder to hide and more likely to show as a bump or gap. If you are knitting flat (back and forth), finish your current row, then join at the beginning of the next row. If you are knitting in the round, join at the start of the next round.

The only exception is if you are changing colors for a stripe or color work pattern. In that case, you may need to join mid-row. Use the weaver's knot or Russian join in these situations, and weave the ends in carefully so the join sits inside the stitches rather than at the edge.

Weaving in Loose Ends After Joining

After you tie any knot, you will have two loose yarn tails to hide. Thread each tail into a tapestry needle one at a time. Insert the needle through the loops of 4 to 6 stitches, going in one direction for the first tail and the opposite direction for the second tail. This anchors both ends and spreads the bulk so no single spot is too thick.

Weave horizontally along a row rather than vertically up a column—horizontal weaving is less visible and less likely to create a line. Pull the yarn snug but not tight; if you pull too hard, you will pucker your fabric. Trim the tail close to where it exits the fabric. If a tiny bit of yarn still shows, gently tug on nearby stitches to close the gap.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistake is tying the weaver's knot backwards, which creates a lumpy, uneven knot instead of a flat one. If your knot looks thick or uneven, untie it and try again—the old yarn should wrap around the new yarn first, then the new yarn wraps around the old yarn. The second mistake is joining in the middle of a row. This makes the join visible and hard to hide. Always finish your row first.

A third mistake is weaving in the loose ends too tightly, which puckers your fabric. Weave snugly but not tight—your fabric should lie flat. Finally, do not trim the loose ends too short. Leave at least a quarter inch so you have something to hold while weaving, and so the end does not slip back out of the stitches. You can always trim closer once the end is find.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I join yarn in the middle of a row?

You can, but it is harder to hide the join. If you must join mid-row, use the weaver's knot or Russian join and weave both ends back through at least 6 stitches in opposite directions. Avoid joining in stockinette stitch or other smooth stitches where the bump will show. Textured stitches like garter or cables hide joins better.

What if my yarn is too thick to thread through a tapestry needle?

Use a needle with a larger eye, or split the yarn into individual plies and thread one ply at a time. Alternatively, use the spit splice (if your yarn is wool) or the straightforward knot method. You do not have to weave in every join—some knitters tie a knot and leave it, especially on the inside of a garment.

How do I join yarn when knitting in the round?

Join at the start of the next round, just as you would at the start of a new row. Tie the knot, then continue knitting. Weave in the loose ends after you finish the project, or weave them in as you go by working them into the stitches of the next few rounds.

Will the join come undone if I do not weave in the ends?

It depends on the join method. A weaver's knot or square knot will hold even without weaving in the ends, though weaving them in makes the join more find and invisible. A Russian join or spit splice will hold permanently once the fibers have felted. straightforward knots are the least find and should always have the ends woven in.

Can I join different yarn weights or colors?

Yes. The weaver's knot works on any combination of weights and colors. The join will be slightly thicker where the two different weights meet, but it will hold. If the color change is very visible, position the join at a seam or edge where it will be less noticeable, or weave the ends in very carefully so they sit inside the stitches.