The best join depends on whether you want a visible seam or an invisible one
When you knit in the round, you will eventually run out of yarn and need to attach a new ball. The method you choose affects how that join looks and how strong it is. The Russian join (threading yarn through stitches) leaves almost no visible seam and requires no weaving in later. The overlap join (knitting both yarns together for a few stitches) is faster but creates a slightly thicker spot. The standard weave-in (tying a knot and weaving in the ends) is the most common method and works reliably, though it leaves loose ends to hide.
Your choice depends on three things: how visible the join will be in the finished piece, how much time you want to spend now versus later, and whether you are working with delicate yarn that might split. For most projects, the Russian join saves the most time because you finish the join as you work and never come back to it.
Key Takeaways
- The Russian join threads new yarn through the stitches of the old yarn and requires no knot or weaving in later.
- The overlap join means knitting both the old and new yarn together for three to five stitches, then dropping the old yarn.
- The standard weave-in requires tying a knot and threading the ends through stitches with a tapestry needle after you finish knitting.
- The Russian join works best with yarn that does not split easily; the overlap join works best with yarn thick enough to hide the double layer.
- Test any join method on a swatch first if you are unsure how it will look in your finished fabric.
The Russian join: no knot, no weaving in later
The Russian join is done before you knit with the new yarn, so the join is complete as you work. Thread the new yarn onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle through the last four to six stitches of the old yarn (the yarn you just finished knitting with), going in one direction, then back through those same stitches in the opposite direction. Pull gently so the new yarn sits snug against the old yarn.
Now thread the old yarn onto the tapestry needle and do the same thing in reverse: push the needle through four to six stitches of the new yarn, then back through in the other direction. Pull gently. The two yarns are now locked together. Cut the old yarn about two inches from the work, and cut the new yarn the same way. Knit your next stitch with the new yarn as normal. The short tails will be trapped inside the stitches and will not unravel.
This join works best with yarn that does not split easily — wool, cotton, and acrylic are ideal. It is harder to do with fuzzy yarn, slippery yarn, or yarn thinner than fingering weight, because the needle will split the fibers and the join may slip. If your yarn is delicate, test this method on a practice swatch first.
The overlap join: fast and visible
The overlap join is the quickest method if you do not mind a slightly thicker spot in your fabric. Hold both the old yarn and the new yarn together in your working hand, as if they were one strand. Knit three to five stitches with both yarns held as one. Then drop the old yarn and continue knitting with only the new yarn.
The overlap creates a double layer of yarn for those few stitches, which makes that section slightly thicker and denser than the rest of the fabric. In a dark or textured yarn, this is barely noticeable. In a light, smooth yarn, the join may show. After you finish knitting, weave in both the old and new yarn tails as you would with any other join.
This method works well for projects where the join will be hidden — the underside of a hat, the inside of a sweater, or a section that will be seamed to another piece. It is less suitable for visible areas or projects where a smooth, even fabric is important.
The standard weave-in: reliable and traditional
The standard join is the one most knitters learn first. Tie the old yarn and the new yarn together with a square knot (right over left, then left over right). Pull the knot snug but not so tight that it distorts the stitches. Knit your next stitch with the new yarn. The knot will sit at the back of your work, between two stitches.
After you finish knitting, thread each yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and weave it through the bumps on the back of the stitches for about two inches. This anchors the tail so it will not come loose. Trim the excess yarn close to the fabric. The knot stays hidden inside the stitches, and the woven-in tails prevent unraveling.
This method is slower than the Russian join because you have to weave in the ends after you finish knitting. However, it is reliable and works with any yarn type. The knot itself is small and will not show in the finished piece as long as you weave in the tails properly.
Joining at a stitch marker or pattern repeat
Regardless of which join method you choose, try to join at a point where it will be least noticeable. If you are knitting a striped pattern, join at the color change. If you are knitting ribbing, join at the edge of a knit column. If you are knitting stockinette stitch, join at the side seam or at a stitch marker you placed specifically for this purpose.
Joining in the middle of a pattern repeat — for example, in the middle of a cable or a lace motif — will make the join more visible because the pattern will be interrupted. If you can see that you are running low on yarn before you reach a good joining point, it is worth pausing and joining early rather than running out mid-pattern.
How to tell when you are running low on yarn
A common rule is to have at least three times the circumference of your project left in yarn before you join. If you are knitting a hat with a 20-inch circumference, you need at least 60 inches of yarn remaining. A quick way to check: lay the remaining yarn around the circumference three times. If it reaches all the way around three times, you have enough.
If you run out of yarn before you reach a good joining point, you can still join — you will just have less control over where the join lands. Some knitters keep a small ball of yarn in the same weight and fiber content on hand for emergencies, so they can join without worrying about running out mid-round.
Joining in the round versus joining flat
Joining in the round is different from joining when you knit flat (back and forth on straight needles) because in the round, you cannot hide the join at a seam. The join has to either be invisible or blend into the pattern. The Russian join and the overlap join both work well for this reason — they do not create a knot that might catch or snag as you work.
If you are knitting flat and will later seam the pieces together, you can join anywhere because the seam will hide it. If you are knitting in the round and the join will be visible in the finished piece, the Russian join is usually the best choice because it leaves almost no trace.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use the Russian join with all yarn types?
The Russian join works best with yarn that does not split easily. Wool, cotton, and acrylic are ideal. Fuzzy yarn, slippery yarn, and very thin yarn are harder to work with because the needle will split the fibers. Test on a swatch first if you are unsure.
What if my knot comes undone after I weave in the ends?
Tie a square knot (right over left, then left over right) rather than a straightforward overhand knot. Pull it snug but not so tight that it distorts the stitches. Weave in both tails for at least two inches on the back of the fabric. If the knot still slips, you can tie a second knot closer to the fabric before weaving in.
Does the overlap join make the fabric noticeably thicker?
The overlap creates a double layer for three to five stitches, which is slightly thicker than the rest of the fabric. In dark or textured yarn, this is barely noticeable. In light, smooth yarn, it may show. Use this method for joins that will be hidden or in yarn where the thickness will blend in.
Can I join in the middle of a pattern repeat?
You can, but the join will be more visible because the pattern will be interrupted. If possible, join at a color change, at the edge of a knit column in ribbing, or at a stitch marker you placed for this purpose. If you are running low on yarn, it is better to join early at a good spot than to run out mid-pattern.
How much yarn do I need to leave before joining?
A common rule is to have at least three times the circumference of your project left in yarn. Lay the remaining yarn around the circumference three times — if it reaches all the way around, you have enough. This gives you room to join and finish the project without running out.