Cast on and join in the round

Start by casting on between 80 and 100 stitches, depending on head size. For an adult, 96 stitches works well; for a child, use 80. Use the long-tail cast-on method or your preferred cast-on, then slide all stitches onto your circular needle. Make sure the stitches are not twisted around the needle — they should all face the same direction.

Once all stitches are on the needle, hold the working yarn in your right hand and the needle tip with the cast-on tail in your left. Knit the first stitch of your cast-on row, then continue knitting around until you meet the working yarn again. This joins your work into a circle. Place a stitch marker on the needle after this first round to mark the beginning of each new round.

The join is now complete. You are ready to begin the ribbed cuff that forms the bottom of the beanie.

Key Takeaways

  • Cast on 80 to 100 stitches depending on head size, then knit the first stitch to join the round and mark the start with a stitch marker.
  • Knit a ribbed cuff of 1x1 or 2x2 rib for 1.5 to 2 inches to create the stretchy band that sits on the forehead.
  • Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) after the cuff and continue until the beanie measures 6 to 7 inches from the cast-on edge.
  • Decrease stitches in rounds using a decrease pattern — knit 2 together or slip-slip-knit — until 8 to 12 stitches remain, then thread the yarn through and pull tight to close the top.
  • Weave in the yarn ends with a tapestry needle and block the beanie gently under a damp towel to even out the fabric.

Work the ribbed cuff

After joining, work in 1x1 rib (knit one, purl one) or 2x2 rib (knit two, purl two) for 1.5 to 2 inches. The rib creates the elastic band that sits on your forehead and keeps the beanie from sliding down. Move your stitch marker up as you complete each round so you always know where the round begins.

If you are using 1x1 rib with 96 stitches, you will knit one stitch, then purl the next, all the way around. When you reach the stitch marker, the pattern will naturally line up — the stitch before the marker will be a purl, and the first stitch after the marker will be a knit. This alignment happens because you cast on an even number of stitches.

Continue the rib for the full 1.5 to 2 inches, then stop. You should see a neat, elastic-looking band forming around the needle.

Switch to stockinette and knit the body

Once the cuff is the right length, switch to stockinette stitch — knit every stitch of every round. This creates the smooth, V-textured fabric that makes up most of the beanie. Continue knitting in stockinette until the beanie measures 6 to 7 inches from the cast-on edge. Measure from the needle to the cast-on edge using a ruler or measuring tape.

At 6 to 7 inches, the beanie should cover the ears and reach partway down the back of the head. If you are making a longer beanie, continue past 7 inches — some people prefer a slouchy fit that extends 8 to 9 inches.

Keep the stitch marker in place throughout this section so you do not lose track of where the round begins. This matters when you start decreasing, because the decrease pattern needs to line up with the round start.

Decrease to close the top

When the beanie reaches your target length, begin decreasing. The most common method is to knit 2 together (K2tog) every other stitch around. On the first decrease round, knit one stitch normally, then knit the next two stitches together. Repeat this pattern all the way around. You will end the round with roughly half the stitches you started with.

Purl one full round (or knit one full round if you prefer), then decrease again using the same pattern. Continue this cycle — one decrease round, one plain round — until you have 8 to 12 stitches left on the needle. The exact number does not matter much, as long as the stitches fit comfortably.

An alternative decrease method is slip-slip-knit (SSK): slip one stitch knitwise, slip another stitch knitwise, then insert the left needle through both slipped stitches from left to right and knit them together. This creates a left-leaning decrease that mirrors the right-leaning K2tog. Using both methods in alternating rounds creates a more balanced crown, though K2tog alone works fine.

Close the top and finish

Once 8 to 12 stitches remain, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail. Thread the tail through a tapestry needle, then pass the needle through each remaining stitch on the circular needle, sliding them off as you go. Pull the yarn tight to close the opening at the top of the beanie.

Weave the yarn tail through the fabric on the inside of the beanie using the tapestry needle, following the path of the stitches for about an inch. This anchors the tail and prevents it from coming loose. Trim any excess yarn.

Weave in the cast-on tail the same way. Then gently block the beanie by laying it flat on a damp towel, shaping it to the size and form you want, and letting it dry. Blocking evens out uneven stitches and gives the beanie a finished look.

Troubleshooting common problems

If your beanie is too tight or too loose, the issue is usually the cast-on number. Tighter beanies need fewer stitches (try 80 or 88); looser beanies need more (try 104 or 112). You can also adjust the rib length — a longer cuff makes the beanie sit higher on the head and feel tighter overall.

If you see holes or gaps in the fabric, you may be dropping stitches. Count your stitches at the end of each round to catch dropped stitches early. If you notice a gap after several rounds, you can pick up the dropped stitch with a crochet hook and work it back up the rows.

If the decrease rounds look uneven or bunched, make sure you are spacing the decreases evenly around the round. Some knitters prefer to decrease every 8 stitches (knit 6, then K2tog) rather than every other stitch, which spreads the decreases out and creates a smoother crown.

Yarn weight and needle size

Most beanies are knit with worsted weight yarn (medium thickness) on US size 6 to 8 circular needles. Thicker yarn (bulky weight) knits faster and creates a warmer beanie, but requires larger needles — usually US 10 to 11. Thinner yarn (sport or DK weight) creates a lighter beanie and requires smaller needles, usually US 4 to 6.

The needle size matters because it controls how tight or loose the fabric is. If your beanie feels stiff or dense, try going up a needle size. If it feels loose or floppy, go down a size. Most yarn labels recommend a needle size range; start in the middle of that range and adjust from there.

Circular needle length should be 16 inches for a standard adult beanie. If your needle is too long, the stitches will spread out and be hard to control. If it is too short, you will have trouble fitting all the stitches on the needle.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use straight needles instead of circular needles?

You can, but it is more difficult. Straight needles require you to seam the beanie closed at the back, which adds an extra step and creates a visible seam. Circular needles let you knit in the round without seaming, which is faster and creates a seamless fabric.

What if I do not have a stitch marker?

Use a piece of yarn in a contrasting color. Tie it loosely around the needle between two stitches at the start of the round. Move it up as you complete each round. You can also use a safety pin or a small piece of tape, though yarn works best because it will not snag the stitches.

How do I know when to stop decreasing?

Stop when you have 8 to 12 stitches left on the needle. At that point, the opening is small enough to close with a single pull of the yarn. If you keep decreasing past this point, the opening becomes so small that threading the yarn through becomes difficult.

Can I add a pom-pom to the top?

Yes. Before closing the top, leave a longer yarn tail — 12 to 18 inches instead of 6. After closing the opening, use that tail to attach a pom-pom. You can buy pre-made pom-poms or make one by wrapping yarn around your fingers, tying it in the middle, and trimming it into a ball shape.

Why does my beanie curl at the bottom?

Stockinette stitch naturally curls at the edges. The ribbed cuff prevents curling at the bottom because rib is a textured stitch that lies flat. If the bottom still curls slightly after blocking, you can add an extra inch or two of rib, or switch to garter stitch (knit every stitch, even on purl rounds) for the last inch before the body begins.