What a cable stitch is and why it matters
A cable stitch is a twisted column of knit stitches that looks like a rope running through your fabric. It forms when you cross one group of stitches over another group, then knit them in a specific order. The twist creates that raised, braided appearance you see in cable-knit sweaters and blankets.
Cable stitches are not difficult once you understand the mechanics, but they do require you to temporarily move stitches out of the way. Most cables use a tool called a cable needle—a short, blunt needle that holds stitches while you work around them. Without one, the stitches can slip off and unravel.
The basic cable stitch is called a 2/2 cable (pronounced "two over two"), meaning you cross 2 stitches over 2 stitches. Once you can do this, you can make thicker cables (3/3, 4/4) or thinner ones (1/1) by adjusting the numbers.
Key Takeaways
- A cable stitch requires a cable needle to hold stitches temporarily while you cross one group over another.
- The most common cable is a 2/2 cable, where you slip 2 stitches to the cable needle, knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
- The direction you hold the cable needle (in front or in back) determines whether the cable twists left or right.
- Cable rows are worked on right-side rows only; you purl the cable stitches on the wrong side to keep them flat.
- Cables pull the fabric tighter, so you may need to cast on more stitches or use a larger needle size than you would for stockinette stitch.
What you need before you start
You will need yarn, needles in the correct size for your yarn, and a cable needle. A cable needle is shorter and often thicker than your working needles, with a slight curve or bend. It comes in different sizes; choose one close to your working needle size but slightly smaller so stitches do not slip off easily.
If you do not have a cable needle, you can use a toothpick, a spare needle from an old set, or even a bobby pin in a pinch—anything that will hold stitches without them sliding off. Many knitters keep a cable needle in their project bag because they are inexpensive and straightforward to lose.
Before you attempt a cable, make sure you are comfortable with basic knit and purl stitches. You should be able to knit a few rows without dropping stitches or pulling the yarn too tight. If you are new to knitting, practice stockinette stitch (alternating knit and purl rows) for a few projects first.
How to work a basic 2/2 cable on a right-side row
A 2/2 cable takes up 4 stitches total. Here is the step-by-step process:
- Knit to the point where your cable stitches begin. You will see 4 stitches in a row on your needle.
- Slip the first 2 of those 4 stitches onto your cable needle. Do not knit them—just move them. They should sit on the cable needle in front of your work.
- Knit the next 2 stitches on your working needle (the ones you did not slip). Knit them normally, one at a time.
- Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Slide them back onto your working needle and knit them in order.
- Continue knitting the rest of the row as normal.
That is one cable row. The 4 stitches now form a twisted column. When you look at the finished fabric, you will see the 2 stitches you knitted in step 3 sitting on top of the 2 stitches from the cable needle, creating the rope effect.
Left-leaning and right-leaning cables
The direction your cable twists depends on where you hold the cable needle. In the steps above, you held the cable needle in front of your work. This creates a left-leaning cable because the top stitches slope toward the left when you look at the finished fabric.
To make a right-leaning cable, follow the same steps but hold the cable needle in back of your work instead of in front. Slip 2 stitches to the cable needle and hold it behind your needles, knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the stitches from the cable needle. The twist will slope the opposite direction.
Many cable patterns use both left and right cables side by side to create a symmetrical look. Check your pattern to see which direction each cable should lean, because this affects how the finished piece looks.
How to handle cables on wrong-side rows
Most cable patterns tell you to work cables only on right-side rows (the side facing out when you wear the garment). On wrong-side rows, you purl the cable stitches instead of crossing them. This keeps the cables from becoming too bunched and maintains an even fabric.
When you reach a cable stitch on a wrong-side row, straightforward purl 4 stitches in a row without using the cable needle. Purl them in the order they sit on your needle. Do not slip any to the cable needle. The cables will still look correct on the right side because the structure is already set from the previous cable row.
If your pattern says to cable every 6 rows, you will cable on row 1, purl those stitches on row 2, then knit and purl normally on rows 3, 4, and 5. Row 6 is another cable row. This spacing prevents the cables from twisting too tightly.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common mistake is dropping a stitch from the cable needle while you are working. If this happens, stop when ready and pick it up with a crochet hook before it unravels more than one row. If you do not have a crochet hook, use a spare needle or even a toothpick to catch the stitch and pull it back up.
Another mistake is knitting the cable stitches too tightly. When you knit the stitches from the cable needle, the yarn can feel stiff and hard to work with. Keep your tension loose and even. If the cable stitches are much tighter than the rest of your knitting, your cables will look puckered.
Some knitters accidentally slip the cable stitches in the wrong order or hold the cable needle the wrong way. If your cable is twisting the opposite direction from what the pattern shows, you held the cable needle on the wrong side (front instead of back, or vice versa). Make a note for the next cable row.
Adjusting cable patterns for different yarn weights
Cable stitches pull the fabric inward and make it denser than stockinette stitch. If you are making a garment with cables, you may need to cast on more stitches than a pattern written for stockinette would call for. A sweater pattern designed for cables already accounts for this, but if you are adapting a pattern, add 10 to 20 percent more stitches.
You may also need to use a needle size one or two sizes larger than the yarn label recommends. This keeps the fabric from becoming too stiff. Knit a swatch with your cable stitch using your chosen needle size and measure it. If it feels dense or hard to bend, try a larger needle.
Thicker yarns (bulky or super bulky) make cables that are easier to see but harder to work because the stitches take up more space on the needle. Thinner yarns (fingering or sport weight) create delicate cables but require more patience because the stitches are small. Start with a worsted-weight yarn if you are new to cables.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I cable without a cable needle?
Yes, but it is risky. Some knitters use the working needle itself to hold stitches temporarily, but this requires skill and concentration. A cable needle costs a few dollars and prevents dropped stitches. It is worth having one in your knitting bag.
What does 2/2 cable mean?
It means you slip 2 stitches to the cable needle, knit 2 stitches, then knit the 2 from the cable needle. The first number is the stitches you slip; the second is the stitches you knit before working the slipped ones. A 3/3 cable follows the same logic with 3 stitches instead of 2.
How often should I cable?
Most patterns cable every 6 to 8 rows. This creates a visible twist without making the fabric too tight. Check your pattern for the exact spacing. If you cable every 4 rows, the cables will be tighter and more prominent. If you cable every 10 rows, they will be more subtle.
Why does my cable look loose or sloppy?
The stitches around the cable may be too loose. After you knit the stitches from the cable needle, tighten the working yarn slightly on the next stitch. You can also try using a cable needle one size smaller so the stitches sit more snugly.
Can I cable on every row?
You can, but the fabric will become very dense and stiff. Most patterns cable on right-side rows only and purl the cable stitches on wrong-side rows. This gives the cables room to sit without bunching. If you want a tighter cable, cable every 4 rows instead of every 6.