A decrease removes one stitch from your needle, making your fabric narrower

A decrease is a knitting technique that combines two stitches into one, reducing the total stitch count on your needle. You use decreases to shape garments — to taper sleeves, form necklines, or create the sloped sides of a hat. Every decrease works the same way: you work two stitches together as if they were a single stitch, then pass one loop over the other to find the reduction.

The two main decreases are the knit two together (K2tog) and the slip, slip, knit (SSK). Both remove one stitch, but they slant in opposite directions. Which one you use depends on where the decrease sits in your pattern and which direction you want the fabric to lean.

Key Takeaways

  • A knit two together (K2tog) decrease slants to the right and is worked by inserting your needle through two stitches at once and knitting them as one.
  • A slip, slip, knit (SSK) decrease slants to the left and requires you to slip two stitches individually, then knit them together through their back loops.
  • Decreases are always worked on the knit side of your fabric, never on the purl side, unless your pattern specifically directs otherwise.
  • Pairing a right-leaning decrease on one side of a garment with a left-leaning decrease on the other creates a balanced, symmetrical shape.

Knit Two Together (K2tog): The Right-Leaning Decrease

The K2tog is the simplest decrease and the one most patterns call for first. Insert your right needle through the next two stitches on your left needle from left to right, as if you were about to knit them normally. Wrap your yarn around the right needle and pull it through both stitches at once. Slip the resulting loop onto your right needle. You now have one stitch where two used to be.

The K2tog creates a decrease that visually leans to the right. This matters when you are shaping a neckline or armhole: if you place K2tog decreases on the right side of your garment, the slant will follow the edge and look intentional rather than accidental. On the left side of the same garment, you would use an SSK instead, so both sides mirror each other.

Practice K2tog on a practice swatch before you work it into a real project. The motion is identical to a regular knit stitch — your hands do not need to learn anything new. The only difference is that your needle passes through two stitches instead of one.

Slip, Slip, Knit (SSK): The Left-Leaning Decrease

The SSK takes one extra step but produces a decrease that leans left. Slip the first stitch on your left needle to your right needle as if you were going to knit it (insert from left to right, then slip it off without working it). Slip the next stitch the same way. Now you have two stitches on your right needle, both facing the same direction.

Insert your left needle through both slipped stitches from left to right — you are going backwards compared to a normal knit stitch. Wrap your yarn and knit through both stitches at once, pulling the loop through to your right needle. The two stitches are now one, and the decrease leans to the left.

The SSK is slightly slower than K2tog because of the extra slipping steps, but the result is worth it. When you pair SSK decreases on the left side of a garment with K2tog decreases on the right side, the shaping looks professional and balanced. Many knitters use SSK on the left and K2tog on the right as a standard rule.

Where Decreases Go in Your Pattern

Patterns tell you exactly where to place decreases by writing them in the row instructions. You might see "K5, K2tog, knit to the last 7 stitches, SSK, K5" — this means knit 5 stitches, decrease one stitch using K2tog, knit all the stitches in the middle without decreasing, then decrease one stitch using SSK near the end, and finish with 5 plain knit stitches.

Decreases are almost always worked on the knit side of your fabric (the right side of a stockinette stitch garment). If your pattern asks you to decrease on the purl side, it will say so explicitly. When you are working in the round on circular needles or double-pointed needles, every row is technically a knit row, so decreases happen on every pass.

The number of rows between decreases controls how gradual or steep your shaping is. Decreasing every other row creates a sharp taper, while decreasing every fourth row creates a gentle slope. Your pattern will space them for you.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most frequent error is working a decrease too tightly. When you knit two stitches together, the resulting stitch can be hard to work into on the next row if you pulled the yarn too firmly. Keep the same tension you use for regular stitches — the decrease should feel no different to work.

Another mistake is mixing up which decrease goes where. If your pattern calls for K2tog on the right side and SSK on the left, swapping them will make the shaping look lopsided. Write a small note on your pattern or use stitch markers to remind yourself which decrease belongs in which location.

Some knitters accidentally work a decrease through the back loop when they did not mean to, which twists the stitch. For a standard K2tog, insert your needle from left to right through the front of both stitches. For an SSK, you deliberately go through the back loops, but only after slipping the stitches first.

Decreases in Different Stitch Patterns

In stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side), decreases are straightforward — you work them exactly as described above. In ribbed patterns, you decrease within the knit columns only, never in the purl columns, unless your pattern says otherwise. This keeps the rib structure intact as the fabric narrows.

In garter stitch (knit every row), decreases work the same way, but because every row looks the same, you may need to mark your decrease rows with stitch markers so you do not lose track of where you are. In lace patterns, decreases are often paired with yarn overs to maintain stitch count while creating decorative holes.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between K2tog and SSK?

K2tog slants to the right and is faster to work. SSK slants to the left and requires slipping two stitches first. Both remove one stitch. Patterns use them on opposite sides of a garment to create balanced shaping.

Can I use K2tog on both sides of a decrease pair?

Technically yes, but it will look unbalanced. The decreases will both slant the same direction, making one side of your garment look different from the other. Using K2tog on one side and SSK on the other creates a professional, symmetrical result.

What if I decrease too tightly and cannot work the next row?

Loosen your tension on the decrease stitch itself. The resulting stitch should be the same size as any other stitch on your needle. If it is already tight, you can gently stretch the stitch with your needle on the next row to open it up slightly.

Do I count a decrease as one stitch or two?

You count it as one stitch after it is complete. Before you work the decrease, you have two stitches. After you work it, you have one. Your stitch count on the needle goes down by one for every decrease you work.

Can I decrease on the purl side?

Yes, but only if your pattern tells you to. The purl-side versions are purl two together (P2tog) and slip, slip, purl (SSP). Most patterns avoid decreasing on the purl side because the decreases are harder to see and control from that angle.