What You'll Make and What You Need

A fingerless glove is a tube of knitted fabric that covers your wrist and the back of your hand, with an opening for your fingers. You knit it flat in a rectangle, then seam the sides together. The finished glove is roughly 3 inches wide and 4 to 5 inches tall, depending on your hand size.

You'll need worsted-weight yarn in a color you like—one skein (about 220 yards) makes a pair of gloves. Choose US size 7 or 8 needles (4.5 to 5 mm) that match your yarn weight. You'll also need a yarn needle (the blunt one with a large eye) to weave in ends and seam the sides, scissors, and a measuring tape.

If you've never knitted before, practice the knit stitch and purl stitch on scrap yarn first. This project uses only those two stitches in a straightforward pattern, so it's a good second or third project once you're comfortable holding needles and yarn.

Key Takeaways

  • Cast on 16 stitches and knit in stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row) for 20 rows to create a rectangle roughly 3 inches wide and 4 inches tall.
  • Bind off all stitches loosely so the edge doesn't pucker, then use a yarn needle to seam the two short sides together with mattress stitch.
  • The seam becomes the inside of the glove; weave in any loose yarn ends before trying it on.
  • Measure your hand from wrist to knuckle before you start to adjust the height if needed—add or subtract rows in groups of two.

Casting On and Checking Your Gauge

Cast on 16 stitches using the long-tail cast-on or your preferred method. This number gives you a glove roughly 3 inches wide when knitted in worsted weight on size 7 or 8 needles. If your yarn is thinner (sport or DK weight), cast on 20 stitches instead; if it's thicker (bulky), cast on 12.

Before you commit to the full glove, knit a small swatch—about 4 inches square—in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side). Bind off and measure how many stitches and rows you have per inch. This is your gauge. If you have fewer stitches per inch than expected, your glove will be too wide; switch to smaller needles. If you have more, switch to larger needles. Gauge matters because it determines the finished size.

Once your gauge looks right, unravel the swatch and use that yarn as part of your glove. There's no waste in a small project like this.

Knitting the Body in Stockinette Stitch

With 16 stitches on your needle, begin knitting in stockinette stitch: knit the first row (the right side), then purl the second row (the wrong side). Repeat this pattern—knit, purl, knit, purl—until you have 20 rows total. This creates a smooth, V-textured fabric and takes about 15 to 20 minutes for most knitters.

Keep your tension even as you work. If your stitches are too tight, your glove will be stiff and hard to pull on; if they're too loose, it will sag. Aim for stitches that sit snugly on the needle but move freely when you work them.

Count your rows as you go by marking them on a piece of paper or using a row counter. It's straightforward to lose track, and you want to stop at exactly 20 rows so the glove fits your hand properly. If you measure your hand from wrist to knuckle and it's longer than 4 inches, add 2 more rows for every half inch of extra length.

Binding Off and Seaming the Sides

Once you reach 20 rows, bind off all 16 stitches. Use the standard bind-off: knit two stitches, pass the first stitch over the second, knit one more stitch, pass the previous stitch over it, and repeat until one stitch remains. Cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail, and pull it through the last stitch to find it.

Lay your rectangle flat on a table with the purl side (wrong side) facing up. You now have two short edges (the cast-on and bind-off) and two long edges (the sides). You'll seam the two long edges together using mattress stitch, which creates an invisible seam on the inside of the glove.

Thread the yarn needle with the 6-inch tail from your bind-off. Starting at the top, insert the needle under the first stitch on one long edge, then under the corresponding stitch on the other long edge. Move down one row and repeat, going back and forth between the two edges. Pull gently every few stitches to draw the edges together. When you reach the bottom, weave the tail through a few stitches on the inside to find it, then trim.

Finishing and Trying On

Turn the glove right-side out so the seam is hidden on the inside. Weave in any loose yarn ends from the cast-on edge using the yarn needle. Insert the needle under a few stitches on the inside, then trim the tail close to the fabric.

Slip the glove onto your hand. It should fit snugly around your wrist and cover the back of your hand up to your knuckles, with your fingers free. If it's too tight, you may have knitted too tightly; if it's too loose, you knitted too loosely. You can't easily fix this on a finished glove, but you'll know for your next pair.

Make a second glove the same way. You'll knit faster the second time because you've already practiced the pattern. Most knitters finish a pair in three to four hours of actual knitting time.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common error is binding off too tightly, which makes the top edge pucker and uncomfortable to wear. Bind off loosely—almost as if you're using a needle one size larger. If the edge is already tight, you can gently stretch it by hand before wearing.

Another frequent mistake is miscounting rows and stopping too early or too late. Use a row counter or mark every 5 rows on a piece of paper so you always know where you are. If you do lose count, count the rows on the finished piece before you bind off.

Some knitters accidentally knit two rows in a row (or purl two rows) and break the stockinette pattern. This creates a bumpy texture. If you do this, it's usually visible only on the inside of the glove, so it won't affect how it looks when you wear it. If it bothers you, you can unravel back to the mistake and fix it—this is called frogging—but for a beginner, it's often easier to just keep going.

Adjusting the Pattern for Different Hand Sizes

The basic pattern (16 stitches, 20 rows) fits most adult hands. If your hand is very small or very large, adjust the number of stitches: cast on 14 for a child or petite adult, or 18 for a large hand. Keep the number even so the glove is symmetrical.

For height, measure from your wrist to your knuckles. If that distance is less than 4 inches, reduce the number of rows by 2 for every half inch shorter. If it's more than 4 inches, add 2 rows for every half inch longer. Always change the row count in groups of two to keep the stockinette pattern balanced.

You can also experiment with different yarn weights. Thinner yarn (sport or DK weight) creates a more delicate glove; thicker yarn (bulky) creates a warmer, chunkier one. Adjust your needle size and cast-on number to match the yarn label's recommendations.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to block the glove after I finish it?

Blocking—wetting the glove and pinning it to shape while it dries—is optional for fingerless gloves. If your edges are wavy or the glove is slightly misshapen, blocking helps. Soak it in cool water for 15 minutes, gently squeeze out water, pin it to the correct dimensions on a towel, and let it dry overnight. If the glove looks fine, you can skip this step.

What if I drop a stitch while knitting?

A dropped stitch looks like a small hole or a loose loop. If you notice it right away, use a crochet hook to pick it back up: insert the hook through the dropped stitch from front to back, catch the loose yarn above it, and pull through. If the stitch has been dropped for several rows, you may need to unravel back to that point and reknit, or leave it as is if it's on the inside of the glove.

Can I use a different stitch pattern instead of stockinette?

Yes. Garter stitch (knit every row) creates a thicker, bumpier glove and takes twice as long. Ribbing (alternating knit and purl stitches in columns) creates a stretchy, fitted glove. If you switch patterns, your gauge will change, so knit a swatch first to see how many stitches you need to cast on.

How do I make the glove longer or shorter?

Add or subtract rows before you bind off. Each row adds about a quarter inch to the height. If you want the glove to cover more of your forearm, knit 30 rows instead of 20. If you want it shorter, knit 16 rows. Always stop at an even number of rows so the stockinette pattern stays balanced.

What yarn color works best for fingerless gloves?

Any color works—choose what you like to wear. Darker colors hide dirt and show stitches less; lighter colors show off your knitting but need more frequent washing. Variegated yarn (yarn with multiple colors) can hide imperfect stitches, while solid colors show your technique clearly. For a first pair, a medium gray or navy hides mistakes while still looking polished.