Garter stitch is knit stitches on every row, in both directions
Garter stitch is the simplest knit pattern you can make. You knit every stitch on every row—going forward and backward—and the result is a bumpy, textured fabric that looks the same on both sides. No purling, no pattern to follow, no counting rows. Once you know how to cast on and knit a basic stitch, you can make garter stitch.
The bumps you see are what make garter stitch recognizable. Each bump is actually two rows of knitting stacked together. Because you're knitting in the same direction every time, the stitches naturally stack into that bumpy pattern. It's forgiving—mistakes are hard to spot, and if you drop a stitch, it won't unravel the way other patterns do.
Garter stitch is thick and spongy, which makes it good for dishcloths, scarves, blankets, and washcloths. It doesn't curl at the edges the way stockinette stitch does, so you don't need to add a border. The downside is that it uses more yarn than other stitches and takes longer to knit the same area, because every row is a full row of work.
Key Takeaways
- Garter stitch requires only knit stitches on every row, with no purling or pattern changes.
- The bumpy texture comes from knitting in the same direction repeatedly, and mistakes are difficult to see.
- You need needles, yarn, and the ability to cast on and knit a basic stitch—nothing else.
- Garter stitch fabric is thick and won't curl, making it ideal for practical items like dishcloths and scarves.
Cast on the number of stitches your pattern calls for
Before you knit, you need stitches on your needle. Casting on is the process of creating that first row of loops. The most common method for beginners is the long-tail cast-on, which creates a neat edge and uses two ends of yarn—one long tail and the working yarn attached to the ball.
If you don't have a pattern, start with 20 to 30 stitches for practice. Fewer stitches mean a narrower piece and faster progress. More stitches make a wider piece but take longer. Once you cast on, all those loops sit on your left needle, ready to knit.
Knit every stitch on the first row
Hold the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand. Insert your right needle through the first stitch from left to right, wrap the working yarn around the right needle, and pull it through to create a new stitch. Slide the old stitch off the left needle. That's one knit stitch. Repeat this motion for every stitch on the needle.
By the end of the row, all the stitches will have moved from your left needle to your right needle. Your left needle will be empty. Don't worry if your stitches are loose or uneven at first—they tighten as you work more rows, and tension improves with practice.
Turn the needle and knit the second row the same way
Once you finish the first row, switch the needle with stitches to your left hand. The working yarn hangs from the right side of your work. Knit every stitch on this row exactly as you did the first row—insert, wrap, pull through, slide off. This is where garter stitch becomes obvious: you're doing the same thing over and over.
After the second row, you'll start to see the bumpy texture forming. The stitches from row one are now sitting underneath row two, creating that characteristic ridge. This is normal and exactly what you want.
Continue knitting every row until you reach your desired length
Keep repeating the same motion: knit every stitch, turn the needle, knit every stitch again. There's no pattern to memorize, no increases or decreases to track (unless your pattern calls for them). Just knit, turn, knit, turn. The fabric will grow taller with each row.
Count your rows if you're following a pattern that specifies a finished size. If you're just practicing, knit until the piece feels long enough or until you run out of yarn. Garter stitch is forgiving—there's no "wrong" length for a practice swatch.
Bind off when you reach the end
Binding off secures your stitches so they don't unravel when you remove the needle. The standard method is to knit two stitches, then pull the first stitch over the second stitch and off the needle. Knit one more stitch, pull the previous stitch over it, and repeat until one stitch remains. Cut the yarn, pull the tail through the last stitch, and pull tight.
Your garter stitch piece is now complete. The bound-off edge will look similar to the cast-on edge—a neat, finished line. If you're making a dishcloth or washcloth, you can use it as is. If you're making a scarf or blanket, you might weave in the loose yarn ends with a tapestry needle to hide them.
Common mistakes and how to fix them
The most common mistake is accidentally purling a row instead of knitting it. If you insert the needle from right to left instead of left to right, you're purling. This breaks the garter stitch pattern and creates stockinette stitch instead. The fix is to pay attention to needle direction: always insert from left to right for a knit stitch.
Dropped stitches happen when a loop slides off the needle. Garter stitch is forgiving here—the stitch won't ladder down many rows. Use a crochet hook to pick up the dropped stitch and pull it back onto the needle. If you don't notice until several rows later, you can still fix it, though it takes a bit more patience.
Uneven tension—where some stitches are tight and others loose—is normal for beginners. It usually evens out as you knit more rows. If your edges are particularly messy, you can slip the first stitch of each row instead of knitting it, which creates a neater selvage edge.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many rows of garter stitch equal one inch of height?
This depends on your yarn weight and needle size. Worsted weight yarn on size 8 needles typically produces about 4 to 5 rows per inch. Thicker yarn makes fewer rows per inch; thinner yarn makes more. Check your yarn label for a recommended gauge, or knit a small swatch and measure it to find your own row gauge.
Can I use garter stitch for clothing like sweaters?
Yes, but garter stitch is thick and heavy, so it works better for cardigans, vests, or sweater yokes than for fitted pullover sweaters. Many knitters use garter stitch for the ribbing at cuffs and hems because it's stretchy and won't curl. If you want to make a full garment, look for patterns specifically written for garter stitch.
What's the difference between garter stitch and stockinette stitch?
Garter stitch is knit on every row and looks bumpy on both sides. Stockinette stitch alternates knit rows and purl rows, creating a smooth V-pattern on one side and bumps on the back. Stockinette is faster to knit but curls at the edges; garter stitch is slower but lies flat.
Do I need special yarn for garter stitch?
No. Garter stitch works with any yarn weight and any fiber—wool, cotton, acrylic, or blends. Thicker yarn knits faster; thinner yarn takes longer but uses less yarn overall. Choose based on what you're making and what feels comfortable in your hands.
How do I know if I'm knitting too tight or too loose?
Stitches that are too tight are hard to insert your needle through and feel stiff. Stitches that are too loose look sloppy and create holes. Aim for stitches that slide easily on the needle but hold their shape. This comes with practice—your hands will find a natural rhythm after a few rows.