What a circle loom is and why it works for hats
A circle loom is a round frame with pegs or notches spaced evenly around the edge. You wrap yarn around the pegs in a spiral pattern, then lift loops over the pegs to create knitted fabric. Unlike needles, which require two hands and coordination between them, a circle loom holds your work in place while you use one hand to wrap and one to lift—making it simpler to learn and easier on your hands if you knit for long periods.
Hats are one of the best projects to start with on a circle loom because they're small, they use the loom's circular shape directly, and you can finish one in a few hours. The fabric comes off the loom already shaped like a tube, so you skip the seaming that flat knitting requires. Most circle looms come in sizes from 4 inches to 12 inches in diameter; a 6- to 8-inch loom works well for adult hats.
Key Takeaways
- A circle loom is a round frame with pegs; you wrap yarn around them and lift loops to create knitted fabric without needles.
- Start by anchoring your yarn to one peg, then wrap yarn around every peg in the same direction to create the first row.
- Lift each loop over its peg and over the new wrap to bind off the old stitch, moving around the loom in order.
- Continue wrapping and lifting in rounds until your hat reaches the desired length, usually 7 to 9 inches from the cast-on edge.
- Gather the remaining stitches with a yarn needle to close the top of the hat, then weave in the yarn ends.
Choosing yarn weight and loom size for your hat
The yarn weight you choose determines how thick your finished hat will be and how many rounds it takes to complete. Worsted weight yarn (medium thickness) is the easiest to work with on a circle loom because the stitches are large enough to see clearly and the yarn doesn't slip off the pegs easily. Bulky yarn works faster but can be harder to control; fingering or sport weight yarn creates a thinner, more delicate hat but takes longer.
Match your yarn weight to your loom size: a 6-inch loom works best with worsted or bulky yarn, while an 8-inch loom can handle worsted or sport weight. If you use yarn that's too thin for your loom, stitches will slip off; if it's too thick, the pegs will crowd and the fabric will bunch. Most circle looms come with a label showing recommended yarn weights, so check yours before you buy yarn.
Setting up the loom and casting on
Before you start, make sure your loom is clean and the pegs are smooth—rough spots can catch and split yarn. Lay the loom flat on a table or hold it in your lap so you can see all the pegs clearly.
To cast on, tie a small knot at the end of your yarn and slip it over any peg—this is your anchor. Leave a 4-inch tail hanging down inside the loom. Now wrap your yarn around the outside of the loom, going over the top of each peg in order, moving in one direction (clockwise or counterclockwise—pick one and stick with it). Wrap every peg once. You should now have one loop on each peg, and your working yarn (the yarn still attached to the ball) should be ready to wrap again.
Some looms have notches instead of pegs; the wrapping motion is the same, but you'll nestle the yarn into the notch rather than looping it over a peg. Either way, after your first wrap, you're ready to start knitting.
The basic knitting motion: wrap and lift
Circle loom knitting repeats the same two-step motion for every round. First, wrap: take your working yarn and wrap it around every peg in the same direction you wrapped during cast-on. Go slowly and make sure each peg gets one wrap. You now have two loops on each peg—the old loop from the previous round and the new wrap you just made.
Second, lift: starting at the peg where you began wrapping, use your index finger or a small hook to grab the bottom loop on that peg and pull it up and over the top loop and over the peg itself. The bottom loop falls off; the top loop stays on the peg. Move to the next peg in the same direction and repeat. By the time you've lifted on every peg, you've completed one round and you're ready to wrap again.
The lifting motion is the part that feels awkward at first. Go slowly—there's no speed advantage to rushing, and a dropped stitch is straightforward to miss until several rounds later. If you drop a stitch, you can usually pick it back up with a crochet hook, but prevention is easier than repair.
Knitting rounds until your hat is the right length
Keep wrapping and lifting in rounds. After every 4 to 6 rounds, stop and measure the length of your fabric from the cast-on edge to the working pegs. Most adult hats need 7 to 9 inches of length before you close the top. A child's hat is usually 5 to 6 inches. If you're making a beanie that sits high on the head, aim for the shorter end; if you want a slouchy hat, go longer.
As you work, the fabric will spiral down inside the loom. Every few rounds, gently push the finished fabric down so it doesn't bunch up near the pegs. If the fabric gets too crowded, stitches can slip off the bottom.
You'll notice the fabric getting thicker and heavier as you add rounds. This is normal. If at any point a stitch feels loose or you see a loop hanging lower than the others, stop and use a crochet hook to tighten it before you wrap again.
Closing the top of the hat
When your hat reaches the right length, you're ready to close the top. Cut your working yarn, leaving a tail about 12 inches long. Thread this tail onto a yarn needle (a blunt needle with a large eye, not a sewing needle).
Slip each loop off its peg one at a time and thread it onto the yarn needle. As you slide each loop onto the needle, the stitches gather together. Once all the loops are on the needle, pull the yarn tail tight to cinch the top of the hat closed. The opening will shrink to a small hole at the crown.
Bring the needle to the inside of the hat and weave the yarn tail through a few stitches to anchor it, then trim the excess. Go back to the cast-on edge and do the same with the tail you left there during setup. Your hat is now complete.
Fixing common mistakes as you work
The most common mistake is wrapping in the wrong direction. If you wrap clockwise on one round and counterclockwise on the next, your stitches will twist and the fabric will look uneven. Pick a direction before you start and stick with it for the entire hat.
Dropped stitches happen when a loop slips off a peg. If you notice it right away, use a crochet hook to pick it back up and place it back on the peg. If you don't notice until several rounds later, you can still fix it, but it's trickier—the dropped stitch will create a ladder of loose yarn running down the fabric. Use the crochet hook to pull the loose yarn back up through each row until the stitch is restored.
If your hat is too tight or too loose, the problem is usually yarn weight or tension. Wrapping too tightly makes the fabric stiff and hard to lift; wrapping too loosely makes stitches slip. If you're struggling, try loosening your grip slightly on the working yarn as you wrap, or use a slightly thicker yarn on your next hat.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a circle loom if I've never knitted before?
Yes. A circle loom is actually easier to learn on than needles because the loom holds your work steady and the motions are simpler. You only need to master wrapping and lifting, and both are easier to see and control on a loom than the back-and-forth motion of needle knitting.
What happens if I wrap too tightly and can't lift the loops?
Loosen your grip on the working yarn as you wrap. You want the yarn snug enough that it doesn't slip off the pegs, but loose enough that you can slide your finger under the bottom loop to lift it. If you're already doing this and it's still tight, try using a crochet hook instead of your finger—the hook gives you more leverage.
How do I make the hat bigger or smaller?
Use a larger or smaller loom. A 4-inch loom makes a child's hat; a 6-inch loom makes a small adult hat; an 8-inch loom makes a larger adult hat. You can also use thicker or thinner yarn on the same loom, though this changes the fabric density as well as the finished size.
Can I add a brim or cuff to my hat?
Yes. After you close the top, you can pick up stitches around the cast-on edge with a needle and knit a ribbed cuff by hand, or you can use a second loom to add a brim. Some people also fold the cast-on edge up to create a double-layer cuff for warmth. Experiment after you've finished your first hat.
What do I do if I run out of yarn before the hat is long enough?
Tie a new length of yarn to the end of your working yarn with a square knot, trim the tails to about half an inch, and keep wrapping. The knot will sit inside the hat where it won't show. If you're worried about the knot coming loose, weave the tails in with a yarn needle after you finish.