A hooded scarf is a rectangle you knit, then fold and seam
A hooded scarf is not a separate hood attached to a scarf. It is a single rectangle of knitted fabric that you fold in half lengthwise, seam the sides partway up, and wear with the folded end as a hood over your head and the open end as a scarf down your chest. You knit it flat on straight needles or circular needles, using the same basic stitches as a regular scarf — usually garter stitch or stockinette stitch — then finish it with a whip stitch or mattress stitch seam.
The finished piece is roughly twice as long as a regular scarf and about half as wide, so it folds into a hood without bulk. Most hooded scarves use worsted-weight or bulky yarn and take between 20 and 40 hours to complete, depending on your speed and the yarn weight you choose.
Key Takeaways
- A hooded scarf is a single rectangle you knit flat, then fold and seam along two sides to create a hood at one end.
- Most patterns call for garter stitch or stockinette stitch in worsted or bulky yarn, which knits faster than fingering-weight yarn.
- The rectangle should be roughly 60 to 70 inches long and 12 to 16 inches wide before seaming, so the hood sits properly on your head.
- You seam only the bottom 8 to 10 inches of each side, leaving the top open so you can pull it over your head like a hood.
- Blocking your finished piece before seaming makes the edges straighter and the seams easier to work.
Choose your yarn weight and needle size
Worsted-weight yarn (medium #4) and bulky yarn (#5 and #6) are the fastest choices for a hooded scarf. Worsted weight typically knits at 16 to 20 stitches per 4 inches, while bulky knits at 10 to 14 stitches per 4 inches. Bulky yarn means fewer stitches and rows, so you finish faster, but the fabric is thicker and less drape-friendly. Worsted weight strikes a middle ground: it knits reasonably fast and produces a scarf that folds neatly without excessive bulk at the seams.
Check the yarn label for the recommended needle size. Most worsted-weight yarns call for US 8 to 10 needles; most bulky yarns call for US 10 to 13. Use the needle size on the label, not a size smaller or larger, unless you want to change the fabric density on purpose. Smaller needles make a tighter, denser fabric; larger needles make a looser, drapier one.
You will need roughly 800 to 1,200 yards of yarn for a hooded scarf, depending on the finished dimensions you want. A 60-inch-long, 14-inch-wide rectangle in worsted weight typically uses 900 to 1,000 yards. Check your yarn's yardage per skein and buy enough to reach your target.
Cast on and knit the rectangle
Cast on 56 to 70 stitches, depending on how wide you want the scarf. Aim for 12 to 16 inches wide in your chosen yarn. If your yarn knits at 16 stitches per 4 inches, cast on 56 stitches for a 14-inch width (56 ÷ 16 × 4 = 14). If it knits at 12 stitches per 4 inches, cast on 48 stitches for the same width.
Knit every row in garter stitch (knit flat) or work stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row) until the rectangle measures 60 to 70 inches long. Garter stitch is thicker and takes longer but requires no purling. Stockinette stitch is thinner, knits faster, and looks more polished, but demands more attention to tension. Either works; choose based on your preference and skill level.
Count your rows as you go. In garter stitch at 4.5 rows per inch, you need roughly 270 to 315 rows for a 60- to 70-inch length. In stockinette stitch at 6 rows per inch, you need roughly 360 to 420 rows. These are approximations; measure your work against a ruler every 10 inches to stay on track.
Bind off all stitches loosely when you reach your target length. A tight bind-off will pucker the edge; use a needle one or two sizes larger for the bind-off row, or bind off knitwise through the back loop to loosen the tension.
Block your rectangle before seaming
Blocking shapes your knitting and evens out uneven stitches before you seam. Wet-block by soaking your rectangle in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for 15 to 20 minutes, then gently squeeze out water without wringing. Lay it flat on a blocking mat or clean towel, pin the corners and edges to your target dimensions (60 to 70 inches long, 12 to 16 inches wide), and let it dry completely — usually 24 to 48 hours.
If you do not have a blocking mat, use a clean bath towel on a flat surface, or pin your rectangle to the carpet in a spare room. The goal is to even the edges and set the fabric so seaming is easier. Blocking is optional but strongly recommended; it takes one day and saves frustration during seaming.
Seam the sides to create the hood opening
Fold your rectangle in half lengthwise, so the two long edges meet. You now have a long, narrow tube. Using a whip stitch or mattress stitch and a tapestry needle threaded with matching yarn, seam the two sides together — but only for the bottom 8 to 10 inches of each side. Leave the top 50 to 60 inches unseamed. This unseamed section becomes the hood opening.
To whip stitch, thread your needle under one loop on the edge of one side, then under the corresponding loop on the other side, moving up the seam one stitch at a time. Keep the tension even so the seam does not pucker. Mattress stitch (also called ladder stitch) works by running your needle up the column of stitches between the edge stitch and the next stitch in, alternating sides. Mattress stitch is less visible but takes more practice.
When you reach 8 to 10 inches up from the fold, tie off your yarn and weave in the end. The seamed section becomes the neck of the hood; the unseamed section folds over your head. Try it on to check the fit before you weave in your ends.
Finish the edges and try it on
Weave in all loose ends using a tapestry needle. If your bind-off edge or cast-on edge looks loose or uneven, you can pick up stitches along that edge and knit a few rows of garter stitch to tidy it up, then bind off again. This is optional and adds about an hour of work.
Try on your hooded scarf by folding it in half and pulling the seamed hood section over your head. The open end should drape down your chest like a scarf. If the hood is too tight, you seamed too far up the sides; if it is too loose, you did not seam far enough. For most head sizes, 8 to 10 inches of seaming works well, but adjust based on your fit.
If you want a more finished look, you can pick up stitches around the hood opening and knit a ribbed border (knit 1, purl 1 for 4 to 6 rows), then bind off. This adds structure and prevents the edge from rolling. It takes 2 to 3 hours but makes the scarf look more polished.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common error is seaming too far up the sides, which makes the hood too small to fit over your head comfortably. Measure 8 to 10 inches from the fold before you start seaming, and mark that point with a stitch marker or safety pin. Stop seaming at that mark.
Another frequent problem is casting on too many or too few stitches, which throws off the width. Use a gauge swatch: knit a 4-inch square in your chosen stitch and yarn, measure it, and calculate how many stitches you need for your target width. A 4-inch swatch takes 20 minutes and saves hours of ripping back.
Uneven tension during seaming can make the seam pucker or pull. Keep your seaming tension consistent with your knitting tension, and do not pull too hard on each stitch. If the seam looks tight, you can gently stretch it as you work.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use circular needles instead of straight needles?
Yes. Circular needles work well for a hooded scarf, especially if you are knitting a long rectangle. You knit flat (back and forth) on circular needles the same way you would on straight needles — you do not join in the round. Many knitters prefer circular needles for longer projects because they distribute the weight of the fabric more evenly and reduce hand strain.
What if I want a thicker, warmer hooded scarf?
Use bulky or super-bulky yarn (#5, #6, or #7) instead of worsted weight. Bulky yarn knits faster and produces a thicker, warmer fabric. You will need fewer stitches and rows to reach your target dimensions, so the project finishes in 15 to 25 hours instead of 20 to 40. The trade-off is less drape and more bulk at the seams.
Do I have to use garter stitch, or can I use a different stitch pattern?
You can use any stitch pattern that lies flat and does not curl — stockinette, seed stitch, ribbing, or textured stitches all work. Avoid lace patterns unless you want an open, airy scarf. Test your stitch pattern on a gauge swatch first to make sure it looks the way you want and knits at a speed you are comfortable with.
How do I measure my gauge correctly?
Knit a 4-inch square in your chosen yarn and stitch, bind off, and block it the same way you will block your finished scarf. Measure the number of stitches across 4 inches and the number of rows in 4 inches. If your square measures 16 stitches and 20 rows per 4 inches, your gauge is 16 stitches and 20 rows per 4 inches. Use this number to calculate how many stitches to cast on for your target width.
Can I add a drawstring or ties to the hood?
Yes. After you seam the sides, you can pick up stitches around the hood opening and knit an i-cord (a thin, rope-like cord) or knit a drawstring, then thread it through the edge. Alternatively, you can crochet a chain and sew it to the inside of the hood opening. This adds 1 to 2 hours of work but gives you a way to cinch the hood closed.