What a raglan cardigan is and why the construction matters

A raglan cardigan is a sweater that buttons or zips down the front, with sleeves that start at the neckline and slope diagonally down to the underarm. The diagonal seam running from your neck to your armpit is the raglan line. This construction is popular because the sleeves are easier to fit than set-in sleeves—there's no complicated cap shaping—and the finished garment sits comfortably on most body shapes.

Raglans are also built in a way that works well for knitters who want to avoid seaming. You knit the body and sleeves in one piece from the top down, picking up stitches as you go, which means fewer seams to sew together at the end. This makes the project feel faster and the fit easier to adjust as you work.

Key Takeaways

  • A raglan cardigan is knit from the top down in one piece, with sleeves that slope from the neckline to the underarm.
  • You'll need a pattern, yarn in the weight the pattern calls for, needles in the correct size, stitch markers, and a way to measure your gauge before you start.
  • The raglan increases happen on every other row or every row depending on your pattern, creating the diagonal lines that define the shape.
  • You knit the body and sleeves together until the armholes are deep enough, then divide the stitches and finish the body and sleeves separately.
  • Blocking and seaming the button bands are the final steps that make the cardigan look polished and fit properly.

Choosing a pattern and checking your gauge

Start by finding a raglan cardigan pattern that matches your skill level and the yarn you want to use. Patterns are available free on sites like Ravelry and Purl Soho, or you can purchase them from independent designers. Read the pattern all the way through before you buy yarn—patterns vary widely in how they handle increases, shaping, and finishing, and you want to understand what you're committing to.

Once you have a pattern, knit a gauge swatch in the yarn and stitch pattern the pattern calls for. Wash and block the swatch the same way you plan to wash the finished cardigan, then measure how many stitches and rows fit in 4 inches. If your gauge doesn't match the pattern's gauge, your finished cardigan will be the wrong size. Adjust your needle size up or down until your gauge matches, even if it means using needles a full size different from what the pattern suggests.

Write down your gauge and the needle size you used. You'll need this information if you decide to customize the pattern later.

Casting on and working the yoke

The yoke is the top section of the cardigan—the part that includes the neckline, the beginning of the sleeves, and the upper back and front. Most raglan patterns ask you to cast on a small number of stitches (usually 60 to 100) at the back of the neck, then pick up stitches along the front edges to create the cardigan opening.

Once all your stitches are on the needle, you'll begin the raglan increases. These are extra stitches you add at specific points—usually just inside the front edges and on either side of two center-back stitches—to create the diagonal raglan lines. The pattern will tell you whether to increase every row or every other row. Increases happen in the same spots on every increase row, so the pattern becomes rhythmic and straightforward to remember.

As you work the yoke, you're also shaping the neckline. Most patterns have you work the front edges in garter stitch or ribbing while the rest of the yoke is in stockinette or another stitch pattern. This creates a neat, finished edge that won't curl.

Dividing the body and sleeves

You'll keep increasing until the yoke is deep enough to reach your underarm. The pattern tells you how many rows to work or gives you a measurement to check against your body. Once the yoke is the right depth, you divide the stitches: some go on a holder or spare needle for each sleeve, and the rest stay on your working needle for the body.

At this point, you have three separate pieces to finish. Many knitters like to set the sleeves aside and finish the body first, because the body is usually faster and gives you a sense of progress. Cast on a few stitches under each arm (the pattern specifies how many) to bridge the gap where the sleeves were, then continue knitting the body in the round until it reaches the length you want.

The body usually ends with ribbing at the hem to match the neckline. Once the body is done, bind off and set it aside.

Finishing the sleeves and adding button bands

Pick up the stitches for one sleeve from the holder. You'll knit the sleeve in the round, decreasing at the underarm seam to taper it toward the wrist. The pattern tells you how many stitches to decrease and how often. Most sleeves taper gradually over several inches so the fit is comfortable.

Once the sleeve reaches your wrist, finish with ribbing to match the body. Bind off and repeat for the second sleeve. Weave in all the loose ends with a tapestry needle.

Now add the button bands. These are strips of ribbing or garter stitch that run up both front edges and around the neckline. You can pick up stitches directly from the edge of the cardigan and knit the bands flat, or knit them separately and sew them on. Most patterns include instructions for this step. Once the bands are done, sew on buttons to match the buttonholes (if your pattern includes them) or space them evenly down the front.

Blocking and final adjustments

Wash your finished cardigan in cool water with wool wash or gentle soap, then lay it flat on a clean towel or blocking mat. Gently shape it to the measurements in the pattern, pinning the edges if needed. Let it dry completely—this usually takes 24 to 48 hours. Blocking evens out the stitches, relaxes the yarn, and makes the cardigan look polished.

Once it's dry, try it on. Check that the button bands lie flat, the sleeves hang at the right angle, and the length feels right. If you need to adjust the fit slightly, you can often unravel a few rows and re-knit them, or add a row of stitches if something is too tight.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is not checking gauge before you start. A difference of even half a stitch per inch adds up across the whole cardigan and can make it several sizes off. Knit your swatch, measure it carefully, and adjust your needles if needed.

The second mistake is losing track of where your increases go. Use stitch markers to mark the increase points—one on each side of the front edges and one on each side of the center-back stitches. Move the markers up as you work so you always know where to increase.

The third is not trying the cardigan on as you work. Once you've finished the yoke and divided the body and sleeves, try it on to make sure the yoke depth is right and the neckline sits where you want it. If something is off, it's much easier to fix now than after you've knit the whole body.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I knit a raglan cardigan bottom-up instead of top-down?

Yes, but it's more complicated. You'd knit the body and sleeves separately, then seam them together and pick up stitches for the yoke. Most knitters find top-down easier because you can try it on as you work and adjust the fit. If you prefer bottom-up construction, look for a pattern written that way rather than trying to reverse-engineer a top-down pattern.

What if my sleeves are too tight or too loose?

Tightness usually means your gauge was off or you didn't decrease enough as you tapered the sleeve. Looseness means you decreased too much or your gauge was too loose. The best fix is to measure your gauge carefully before you start the next cardigan. If your current sleeves are slightly off, you can often unravel them and re-knit with more or fewer decreases.

Do I have to seam the underarms?

Most raglan patterns have you pick up stitches under the arm to bridge the gap between the body and sleeves, so there's no seam there. However, you may need to seam the sides of the body if you knit it flat instead of in the round. Check your pattern to see what it calls for.

How do I know when the yoke is deep enough?

The pattern gives you either a row count or a measurement. Measure from your back neck down to your underarm, then compare it to the pattern's schematic. You can also try the cardigan on as you work—once the yoke reaches your underarm, it's time to divide.

What yarn weight should I use?

Use the yarn weight the pattern specifies. If you substitute a different weight, your gauge will change and the finished cardigan will be a different size. If you want to use a different yarn, look for a pattern written for that weight instead.