Start with a fitted waistband and measure your hips

A knitted skirt begins with casting on stitches around your hip measurement, not your waist. Measure the fullest part of your hips while wearing the underwear or leggings you plan to wear under the finished skirt, then add 2 to 4 inches for ease—the extra room that lets the skirt sit comfortably without clinging. A skirt that measures 36 inches around the hips needs roughly 144 stitches if you are using a yarn that knits to 4 stitches per inch, though this varies by yarn weight and your tension.

Cast on using the long-tail method or your preferred technique, then knit a ribbed waistband in a 1×1 or 2×2 rib pattern (alternating knit and purl stitches) for 1.5 to 2 inches. This ribbed section grips your body and prevents the skirt from sliding down. After the ribband, switch to stockinette stitch (knit on the front, purl on the back) or another stitch pattern you prefer, and continue in the round using circular needles or double-pointed needles.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure your hips at the fullest point and add 2 to 4 inches for ease before calculating how many stitches to cast on.
  • Knit a 1.5 to 2 inch ribbed waistband first to keep the skirt from sliding, then switch to your main stitch pattern.
  • Increase stitches gradually over the first 4 to 6 inches to shape the skirt wider at the hips, using evenly spaced yarn overs or knit-front-and-back increases.
  • Knit the body of the skirt straight (without further increases) until it reaches your desired length, then bind off loosely to avoid a tight edge.
  • Block the finished skirt by wetting it, pinning it to shape on a flat surface, and letting it dry completely before wearing.

Shape the hips with increases over the first few inches

Once your ribband is complete, you need to add stitches across the first 4 to 6 inches of the skirt body to create a gentle flare at the hips. This prevents the skirt from fitting like a tube. Distribute your increases evenly around the circumference—if you need to add 20 stitches total, space them so you add roughly one stitch every 7 or 8 stitches.

Use yarn overs (which create small decorative holes) or the knit-front-and-back method (knitting into the front and back of the same stitch to create one new stitch) to make your increases. Yarn overs are faster and create a lacy effect; knit-front-and-back is invisible and works better for a solid fabric. Increase on every other round or every third round depending on how gradual you want the shaping—every other round creates a more noticeable flare, while every third round is gentler.

Knit the body straight until you reach your desired length

After your increases are finished, continue knitting in stockinette stitch or your chosen pattern without adding or subtracting stitches. Measure the skirt against your body every 2 to 3 inches by trying it on or laying it flat and measuring from the cast-on edge. Most skirts fall between 16 and 24 inches long depending on whether you want a knee-length, midi, or maxi style.

Keep track of your row count as you knit the body. If your skirt needs to be 20 inches long and you are knitting at 6 rows per inch, you will knit approximately 120 rows in the body section. Check your tension periodically by measuring a 4-inch square of your knitting—if it is wider or narrower than your gauge swatch, adjust your needle size or tension before continuing.

Bind off loosely and avoid a tight edge

When you reach your target length, bind off using a loose bind-off method such as the suspended bind-off or the stretchy bind-off. A tight bind-off can pucker the bottom edge and make the skirt uncomfortable to pull on. The suspended bind-off involves knitting two stitches, passing the first stitch over the second, then slipping the resulting stitch back to the left needle before knitting the next stitch—this creates a flexible edge that moves with your body.

Cut your yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, then pull the tail through the final stitch to find it. Weave in any loose ends using a tapestry needle, working them through the bumps on the back of your stitches so they do not show on the front.

Block your skirt to even out the stitches and set the shape

Blocking is the step that transforms a lumpy, uneven piece of knitting into a polished garment. Fill a sink or basin with cool water and add a small amount of wool wash or gentle detergent. Submerge your finished skirt and let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes, then gently squeeze out the water without wringing or twisting.

Lay the skirt flat on a clean towel or blocking mat and gently stretch it to your target measurements—pin the waistband edge and the bottom edge to the mat using rust-proof pins or blocking wires. Smooth out any wrinkles or uneven areas with your hands, then let the skirt dry completely, which usually takes 24 to 48 hours depending on the yarn weight and humidity. Once dry, remove the pins and try on your finished skirt.

Common mistakes to avoid while knitting

The most frequent error is casting on too many or too few stitches because the hip measurement was taken incorrectly or the gauge was off. Always knit a gauge swatch in your chosen yarn and stitch pattern, measure it after blocking, and adjust your needle size if needed before casting on for the actual skirt. A skirt that is 2 inches too wide or too narrow is uncomfortable and difficult to fix without unraveling.

Another common problem is knitting the increases too quickly, which creates a skirt that flares dramatically at the hips and looks unbalanced. Spread your increases over at least 4 inches and space them evenly around the circumference. If you notice the skirt is pulling or bunching as you knit, you may be working too tightly—relax your tension and check that your stitches are sliding smoothly on the needle.

Binding off too tightly is also straightforward to do, especially if you are tired or rushing to finish. Practice your chosen bind-off method on a scrap piece first, and remember that the bind-off edge should stretch as much as the ribband. If your bind-off looks tight or puckered, you can carefully cut it out and re-bind-off using a larger needle or a looser technique.

Choosing yarn weight and stitch patterns for different skirt styles

Lighter yarn weights (fingering or sport weight) create delicate, drapey skirts that work well for summer or layering, while heavier weights (worsted or bulky) produce thicker, warmer skirts suitable for fall and winter. A fingering-weight skirt may take 40 to 60 hours to knit, while a bulky-weight version can be finished in 15 to 20 hours. Consider how much time you want to spend and what season you plan to wear the skirt before choosing your yarn.

Stockinette stitch is the simplest and most common choice for a first skirt because it is straightforward to fix mistakes and creates a smooth, classic look. Ribbed patterns add texture and stretch, making them good for fitted skirts. Lace patterns with yarn overs create an airy, feminine effect but require more attention to stitch counts. Cables and textured stitches are beautiful but can make the skirt stiffer and less drapey, so they work better for shorter, more structured styles.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to add elastic to the waistband?

Not always. A well-fitted ribbed waistband with the right amount of ease usually stays in place without elastic. If you prefer extra security or your skirt tends to slip, you can thread elastic through the ribband by picking up the purl bumps on the inside and weaving the elastic through them, then sewing the ends together. Use 1-inch wide elastic and make it 2 to 3 inches smaller than your waist measurement.

What if my skirt is too big or too small after I finish?

If the skirt is only slightly too big (less than 1 inch), you can take in the waistband by sewing a seam on the inside. If it is too small, you cannot easily add stitches without unraveling. For future projects, always knit a gauge swatch and measure it after blocking to catch sizing problems before you cast on the full skirt.

Can I knit a skirt flat on straight needles instead of in the round?

Yes. Knit two identical rectangular panels and seam them together at the sides, or knit one long rectangle and seam it into a tube. You will need to purl every other row to create stockinette stitch, and you will have a seam running up the back or side of the skirt. Circular needles are faster because you knit every row, but flat knitting works if you prefer it.

How do I prevent my skirt from rolling at the bottom edge?

Stockinette stitch naturally curls at the edges. Add a ribbed border (1 to 2 inches of 1×1 or 2×2 rib) at the bottom, or use garter stitch (knitting every row) for the last inch before binding off. Both methods lie flat and prevent curling without adding much bulk.

What yarn weight is best for a beginner?

Worsted weight or bulky weight is easiest for a first skirt because the stitches are large and straightforward to see, mistakes are straightforward to fix, and the project finishes quickly. Fingering weight is beautiful but requires more patience and precision. Start with a worsted-weight yarn in a light color so you can see your stitches clearly.