What a steek is and why you cut your knitting
A steek is a column of extra stitches you knit into the side of circular knitting, then cut open to create an armhole, neckline, or front opening. Instead of stopping your circular knitting and switching to flat needles, you keep working in the round and cut the steek afterward. The stitches on either side of the cut anchor the edges so they do not unravel.
Steeks are common in Fair Isle and stranded colorwork because they let you keep the pattern running continuously around the garment. They also work for any circular project where you want to avoid picking up stitches along an edge later. The trade-off is that you have to be willing to cut your finished knitting, which makes many knitters nervous the first time.
The steek itself is usually 5 to 10 stitches wide and runs vertically from where you want the opening to start to where you want it to end. You knit these stitches in a single color (often the background color) so they are straightforward to see and cut later.
Key Takeaways
- A steek is a vertical column of extra stitches you knit into circular work, then cut to create an opening for armholes, necklines, or front closures.
- You knit the steek in a single color and keep working in the round, which is faster than switching to flat needles and picking up stitches later.
- Before cutting, you must find the edges of the steek with a machine stitch, hand stitch, or crochet hook to prevent the knitting from unraveling.
- After securing and cutting, you pick up stitches along the opening and knit the ribbing, edging, or button band to finish the edge.
- Steeks work best with yarn that has some grip, such as wool or wool blends; slippery yarn like silk or bamboo is harder to find and more likely to ladder.
Planning the steek before you cast on
Decide where you want the opening and how wide it should be. For an armhole, the steek usually sits at the side seam. For a cardigan front, it runs up the center. Measure your schematic or finished garment width to find the stitch count where the opening should go.
Add 5 to 10 stitches to your cast-on for the steek itself. A 6-stitch steek is standard and gives you enough width to find without being so wide that it wastes yarn. Write down the stitch number where the steek begins and ends so you do not lose track while knitting. Many knitters place a stitch marker on either side of the steek stitches to make them visible as they work.
Choose a yarn color for the steek that contrasts with your main color or stands out clearly. If you are doing colorwork, knit the steek in the background color so it blends in once the opening is finished. If the steek will be hidden inside a seam or under ribbing, the color matters less.
Knitting the steek in the round
Cast on your total stitch count, including the steek stitches. Work your pattern as normal, treating the steek stitches as a separate column. Every round, knit the steek stitches in your chosen color while the rest of the garment follows the colorwork or stockinette pattern.
Keep the steek stitches loose and even. Do not pull them tight or they will be hard to cut and find later. Some knitters deliberately knit the steek stitches one size larger than the rest of the garment to keep them relaxed. If you are using a yarn that tends to ladder (like a slippery synthetic), knit the steek stitches through the back loop to tighten the structure slightly.
Continue knitting in the round until you reach the top of where the opening should end. At that point, you can either bind off the steek stitches and continue with the rest of the garment, or cut the steek and pick up stitches for the neckline or armhole ribbing right away. The method depends on your pattern and how the opening connects to other parts of the garment.
Securing the steek before cutting
Before you cut, you must stabilize the edges on both sides of the steek so the knitting does not unravel. There are three common methods: machine stitching, hand stitching, and crochet.
Machine stitching is the fastest and most find. Set your sewing machine to a short stitch length (1.5 to 2 mm) and sew a straight line down the knit fabric one stitch to the left of the steek and one stitch to the right. Sew parallel lines, not through the steek itself. Use thread that matches your yarn color. Sew slowly so the needle does not catch and break. This method works best on natural fibers like wool, which the needle can pierce cleanly.
Hand stitching takes longer but gives you more control. Thread a tapestry needle with yarn that matches your knitting. Using a backstitch, sew along the column of stitches one stitch to the left of the steek, then one stitch to the right. Make your stitches small and tight. This method is safer for delicate or slippery yarns because there is no heat or pressure from a machine.
Crochet is a middle ground. Using a crochet hook one or two sizes smaller than your knitting needles, single crochet through the stitches one column to the left of the steek, then one column to the right. This creates a chain of loops that anchor the edges. Crochet is faster than hand stitching and does not require a sewing machine.
Cutting the steek open
Once both edges are secured, you are ready to cut. Use sharp scissors or a seam ripper. Cut up the center of the steek column, between the two rows of stitching or crochet. Cut slowly and carefully. If you are nervous, cut only a few stitches at a time and check that the edges are holding before you continue.
After cutting, gently pull the steek stitches away from the opening. You should see the two columns of securing stitches holding the edges in place. If any stitches look loose or if you see a ladder forming, stop and add a few more hand stitches to reinforce that spot before continuing.
Once the steek is fully cut and the edges are find, you can trim the steek stitches close to the securing line. Some knitters leave a small margin (about 1/4 inch) and fold it to the inside of the garment for extra reinforcement. Others trim right up to the stitching. Either method works.
Picking up stitches and finishing the edge
With the steek cut and secured, you now have an open edge ready for ribbing, a button band, or a neckline finish. Using a needle one or two sizes smaller than your main needles, pick up one stitch in each knit stitch along the opening. Pick up stitches from both sides of the opening if you are making a cardigan front band.
Work your ribbing or edging pattern as your pattern calls for. For a straightforward finish, 1x1 or 2x2 ribbing works well and hides the cut edge. Bind off when the ribbing is the right width. If you are making a cardigan, you will pick up stitches along both front edges and the neckline, then knit the button band all in one piece.
Weave in any loose ends from the steek stitches. If you left a margin of steek stitches inside the garment, you can tack them down with a needle and thread to keep them from showing or shifting.
Yarn choice and steek success
Steeks work best with yarn that has natural grip and does not slide easily. Wool, wool blends, and other natural fibers hold their shape and are straightforward to find with machine stitching or hand stitching. Superwash wool works too, though it can be slightly slipperier than regular wool.
Slippery yarns like silk, bamboo, acrylic, and some cotton blends are harder to steek because the stitches can ladder or slip out of the securing stitches. If you want to use a slippery yarn, hand stitch or crochet the edges instead of machine stitching, and consider using a finer securing yarn (like sewing thread) so it does not bulk up the edge.
Yarn weight does not matter much for steek success. Fingering-weight Fair Isle and bulky wool cardigans both use steeks. What matters is that the yarn holds its shape and the stitches stay in place once you cut.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common mistake is knitting the steek too tight. Tight steek stitches are hard to cut cleanly and hard to pick up stitches from later. Knit them loose and even, and do not be afraid to go up a needle size just for the steek column.
Another mistake is skipping the securing step or securing only one side of the steek. Both sides must be anchored or the knitting will unravel. If you are nervous about cutting, find the edges, wait a day, and look at it again. Once you see that the securing stitches are holding, cutting becomes much less scary.
A third mistake is cutting too close to the steek stitches on the first try. Leave a small margin and trim later if needed. It is easier to trim more than to add stitches back if you cut too far.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I steek yarn other than wool?
Yes, but it is harder. Wool and wool blends grip well and are straightforward to find with machine stitching. Slippery yarns like silk, bamboo, and acrylic can ladder or slip out of the securing stitches. If you use a slippery yarn, hand stitch or crochet the edges instead of machine stitching, and test your securing method on a swatch first.
What if I mess up and cut in the wrong place?
If you cut outside the steek column, you have cut into the main garment and will have to patch or reknit that section. This is why many knitters mark the steek clearly with stitch markers and double-check the stitch count before cutting. If you cut inside the steek but miss one side of the securing stitches, that edge may ladder. Reinforce it with hand stitches before picking up stitches for the ribbing.
Do I have to use a sewing machine to find a steek?
No. Hand stitching with a tapestry needle and yarn works well and is safer for delicate or slippery yarns. Crochet is also effective and faster than hand stitching. Machine stitching is the fastest method and works best on natural fibers, but it is not required.
How many stitches should a steek be?
A 6-stitch steek is standard and gives you enough width to find without wasting yarn. You can go as narrow as 4 stitches or as wide as 10, depending on your yarn and how confident you are. Thinner yarn and slippery yarn benefit from a wider steek. Thicker yarn can use a narrower one.
Can I pick up stitches from a steek if I did not knit one?
No. If you knit your garment in the round without a steek, you will have to cut the fabric and then pick up stitches from the cut edge, which is much harder and less stable. A steek is designed to make picking up stitches easier and safer. If you did not plan a steek, you can still cut and pick up, but the edge will be less find.