Stockinette stitch is the knit stitch alternated with the purl stitch

Stockinette stitch is made by knitting one row, then purling the next row, then repeating. When you work flat (on two needles), this creates a smooth V-pattern on the front side and bumpy loops on the back. The front side is what you see when you wear the finished piece. Most sweaters, scarves, and basic garments use stockinette because it is fast to work and shows off yarn color and texture clearly.

The stitch looks straightforward because it is straightforward — you need only two basic stitches, knit and purl, done in the right order. The pattern comes from the rhythm, not from complexity. Once your hands learn the motion, you can work stockinette without thinking about it.

Key Takeaways

  • Stockinette stitch alternates one row of knit stitches with one row of purl stitches when working flat on two needles.
  • The smooth side (the knit side) faces outward on finished garments, while the bumpy side (the purl side) faces inward.
  • You need to know how to cast on, knit, and purl before you start — stockinette builds on those three skills.
  • Stockinette curls at the edges, so most patterns add a border of garter stitch (knit every row) to keep the fabric flat.
  • Tension matters more in stockinette than in other stitches because uneven tension shows as visible bumps in the V-pattern.

Cast on and knit your first row

Start by casting on the number of stitches your pattern calls for. Use any cast-on method you know — long-tail, cable, or straightforward are all fine. The cast-on edge becomes the bottom of your piece, so make sure your stitches are loose enough to work into but tight enough not to fall off the needle.

Once all stitches are on the needle, knit across the entire row. Insert your right needle through each stitch from left to right, wrap the yarn, and pull a new loop through. Drop the old stitch off the left needle. When you reach the end, you have completed row 1.

Purl your second row

Turn your work around so the needle with stitches is in your left hand. Now purl across the entire row. Insert your right needle through each stitch from right to left (the opposite direction from knitting), wrap the yarn, and pull a new loop through. Drop the old stitch off the left needle. When you reach the end, you have completed row 2.

The purl row is the same motion as knitting but reversed — your needle goes in from the opposite side and the yarn sits in front of the needle instead of behind it. If you have done garter stitch before (knit every row), purling will feel unfamiliar at first, but the motion becomes automatic after a few rows.

Repeat knit and purl rows to build the pattern

Row 3 is a knit row again. Row 4 is a purl row. Continue this pattern — knit, purl, knit, purl — until your piece reaches the length your pattern specifies. The V-shapes will appear gradually as you work. After about 10 rows, the pattern becomes clear and your hands settle into the rhythm.

Count your rows as you go, especially if your pattern has a specific finished length. Many knitters mark every 10th row with a stitch marker or a piece of yarn tied to the edge so they do not lose count. If you do lose track, count the V-shapes on the front of your work — each V is one knit row, and the bumpy rows between them are purl rows.

Watch your tension to keep stitches even

Tension — how tightly you pull the yarn as you work — shows more in stockinette than in other stitches. If some stitches are tight and others loose, the V-pattern will look bumpy and uneven. The goal is to pull the yarn with the same pressure on every stitch.

Most new knitters pull too tightly on the first stitch after they turn their work. Consciously loosen that stitch slightly. Also check that you are wrapping the yarn the same way every time — if you wrap clockwise on one stitch and counterclockwise on the next, the tension will look off. Your hands will find a natural rhythm after 20 or 30 rows, and the tension will even out.

Bind off when you reach your finished length

When your piece is as long as your pattern specifies, bind off to find the stitches so they do not unravel. Knit two stitches, then pass the first stitch over the second and off the needle. Knit one more stitch, pass the previous stitch over it, and repeat until one stitch remains. Cut the yarn and pull the tail through the last stitch to lock it.

Binding off takes a few minutes and uses the same hand motions as regular knitting, just with an extra step of passing stitches over each other. Work slowly on the bind-off row — rushing this step can make the edge too tight or uneven.

Block your finished piece to flatten the edges

Stockinette naturally curls at the edges because the knit and purl rows pull in opposite directions. To flatten it, wet the finished piece, pin it to the shape you want, and let it dry. This is called blocking. Soak the piece in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for 15 to 20 minutes, gently squeeze out water (do not wring), and lay it flat on a towel or blocking board. Pin the edges straight and let it air dry for 24 hours.

Blocking is not required, but it makes a big difference in how a stockinette piece looks when finished. Many patterns add a garter stitch border (knit every row for a few rows around the edge) instead of blocking, which prevents curling without extra steps.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my stockinette stitch look bumpy instead of smooth?

Uneven tension is the most common cause. Check that you are pulling the yarn with the same pressure on every stitch, and that you are not pulling extra tight on the first stitch after you turn your work. It also takes 15 to 20 rows for your hands to settle into a rhythm, so the first few rows often look uneven. This evens out as you continue.

Can I knit stockinette stitch in the round on circular needles?

Yes. When working in the round, knit every row instead of alternating knit and purl. The knit side automatically faces outward because you are always working on the same side of the fabric. This is called stockinette in the round and is used for hats, sleeves, and socks.

What is the bumpy side of stockinette called?

The bumpy side is called the purl side or reverse stockinette. Some patterns use the purl side as the front of the garment for texture or design. The bumpy pattern is the same stitch — just viewed from the opposite direction.

How do I fix a dropped stitch in stockinette?

If a stitch falls off your needle, pick it up with a crochet hook and pull the loose yarn through it row by row until the stitch is back on your needle. Work slowly and pull the yarn tight after each row so the stitch does not drop again. If you notice the dropped stitch several rows later, you may need to unravel back to that point and fix it.

Does stockinette stitch use more yarn than garter stitch?

No, both stitches use roughly the same amount of yarn. Stockinette looks thinner and more refined because the V-pattern is tighter, while garter stitch (knit every row) looks thicker and more textured. The yarn weight is similar, but the finished fabric has a different appearance and drape.