What you need to start a stocking

A stocking is a tube of fabric knitted in the round, usually on four or five needles, that fits over your foot and leg. The basic structure is always the same: you cast on stitches at the cuff (the top), knit down the leg, shape the heel, knit across the foot, and decrease stitches at the toe until you close it off. The whole project takes between 15 and 30 hours depending on yarn weight and your speed.

You will need yarn—most stockings use fingering weight or sport weight yarn, which is thin enough to create a fabric that fits inside a shoe without bulk. A single stocking typically uses 300 to 500 yards. You will also need a set of four or five double-pointed needles (DPNs) or a circular needle in the size recommended on your yarn label, usually US 1 to US 3 for fingering weight. A tape measure, stitch markers, and a yarn needle for weaving in ends round out the basics.

Key Takeaways

  • Cast on 60 to 80 stitches depending on your foot width, divide them evenly across needles, and knit the cuff in ribbing (alternating knit and purl stitches) for 1 to 2 inches.
  • Knit the leg straight up for 6 to 8 inches or until the stocking reaches just below your knee, then begin the heel flap on half your stitches.
  • The heel is worked flat in rows on one needle, then you pick up stitches along the sides and decrease to shape the heel turn, which creates the corner where the leg meets the foot.
  • After the heel, knit the foot straight until it reaches your ankle bone, then decrease evenly around the toe until you have 8 to 12 stitches left and close them off with a yarn needle.
  • Measure your foot length from heel to toe before you start so you know exactly when to begin decreasing for the toe.

Casting on and knitting the cuff

Cast on 60 to 80 stitches using your preferred method—a long-tail cast-on works well and creates a neat edge. The exact number depends on your foot circumference: measure around the widest part of your foot (usually across the ball) and aim for a stocking that is about 10 percent smaller than that measurement, since knit fabric stretches. If your foot is 9 inches around, cast on 64 stitches; if it is 8 inches, cast on 56.

Divide the stitches evenly across your needles. If you are using four double-pointed needles, put roughly one-quarter of your stitches on each needle. If you are using five needles, use four to hold stitches and one to knit with. Join the stitches into a circle, being careful not to twist them—this is the most common mistake at the start. Place a stitch marker at the join so you know where each round begins.

Knit the cuff in a 1×1 or 2×2 rib pattern (alternating knit and purl stitches) for 1 to 2 inches. Ribbing is elastic and hugs your leg without sliding down. After the ribbing is done, switch to stockinette stitch (knitting every round) and continue up the leg.

Knitting the leg and starting the heel

Knit the leg straight in stockinette stitch until the stocking reaches just below your knee, or about 6 to 8 inches from the cuff. This is where most of the leg length happens, and it is straightforward—just knit every stitch every round. The fabric should feel smooth and even.

When you are ready to start the heel, you will work flat (back and forth in rows) on half your stitches. If you have 64 stitches, the heel uses 32. Slip those 32 stitches onto one needle and leave the other 32 on a spare needle or holder—those will become the instep (the top of the foot) and you will pick them up later.

On the heel needle, knit back and forth in rows for about 2 inches or until the heel flap is roughly square. A common pattern is to slip the first stitch of each row (this creates a neat edge) and knit the rest. After you have worked enough rows, you will have a small rectangle of fabric.

Turning the heel

The heel turn is where the leg becomes the foot. You will work short rows—rows that do not go all the way across—to create a curve. This sounds complicated but follows a straightforward pattern: you knit across most of the stitches, then turn before the end, leaving a few stitches unworked. On the next row, you purl back, again leaving stitches unworked. You keep doing this, working one more stitch each row, until you have worked all the stitches. The unworked stitches gradually get picked up and knitted, which creates the angled corner of the heel.

After the heel turn is complete, you will have roughly half your original stitches on the needle. Now you pick up stitches along the sides of the heel flap—usually one stitch for every two rows—and knit across the instep stitches you left waiting. This brings you back to your full stitch count and you are ready to knit the foot.

Knitting the foot and shaping the toe

Knit the foot in stockinette stitch straight across until the stocking reaches your ankle bone. Measure from the back of your heel to your ankle bone before you start—this is usually 2 to 3 inches. Once you reach that point, you will begin decreasing to shape the toe.

The toe is decreased evenly all the way around. A common method is to knit 2 stitches together at the same spot on each needle every other round, which creates a gradual taper. Keep decreasing until you have 8 to 12 stitches left on your needles. At that point, cut your yarn, thread it through a yarn needle, and pull it through all the remaining stitches to close the toe. Weave the yarn end through the fabric on the inside to find it.

Fixing common mistakes as you go

Twisted stitches at the cast-on edge are the most common early problem—they look like they are leaning the wrong way. If you catch this in the first round or two, you can unravel back to the beginning and rejoin. If you notice it later, you can usually live with it because the cuff will fold down and hide it.

Holes in the fabric usually happen where you join needles or pick up stitches. If a hole is small, you can tighten the nearby stitches by pulling the working yarn snug. If it is large, you may need to use a crochet hook to pull yarn through the gap and close it. Dropped stitches (stitches that slip off the needle) should be picked up when ready with a crochet hook before they unravel further down.

Uneven tension between needles is normal when you are learning to knit in the round on double-pointed needles. The stitches where you change needles often look looser than the rest. This evens out as you gain experience, and blocking (wetting and stretching the finished stocking) helps smooth it out.

Blocking and finishing your stocking

Once you have closed the toe and woven in all the yarn ends, your stocking is technically done, but blocking makes it look more polished. Wet the stocking in cool water with a bit of wool wash, squeeze out excess water gently, and lay it flat or pin it to shape on a blocking board. Let it dry completely—this usually takes 24 hours. Blocking evens out tension, smooths the fabric, and helps the stocking hold its shape.

Try the stocking on before you block it to make sure it fits. If it is too tight or too loose, you can adjust the next one by casting on more or fewer stitches. If the leg is too short or too long, you can add or subtract rows before the heel. Keep notes on what you changed so you can repeat what works.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I knit a stocking on circular needles instead of double-pointed needles?

Yes. Use a circular needle that is 16 inches or shorter so the stitches do not spread out. Some knitters prefer circulars because they are easier to hold and there is no risk of dropping a needle. The technique is the same—you knit in the round the same way.

What if my foot is wider or narrower than average?

Measure your foot circumference and adjust your cast-on number. For every half inch of difference, add or subtract about 4 stitches. If your foot is wider, you may also want to knit the foot longer before starting the toe decreases. Knit a gauge swatch first to see how many stitches per inch your yarn and needles make.

How do I know when to start the heel?

The heel should sit at the back of your ankle when you wear the stocking. Measure from your ankle bone to just below your knee—that is your leg length. Knit the leg for that distance before you start the heel flap. If you are unsure, try the stocking on as you go.

Do I have to use a pattern?

No. A basic stocking is just ribbing, stockinette stitch, a heel, and a toe. Once you understand those four parts, you can knit a stocking without a pattern. Patterns are useful if you want to add color, texture, or decorative stitches, but they are not necessary for a plain, functional stocking.

What should I do if I run out of yarn before the toe is finished?

You can join a new ball of yarn at the start of a round. Tie the new yarn to the old yarn with a square knot, leaving tails about 4 inches long, and weave those tails into the fabric later. If you are close to the end, you can also decrease faster to use fewer stitches and finish sooner.