What an increase does and when you need one

An increase is a deliberate stitch that adds one new loop to your needle, making your fabric wider. You use increases to shape garments — to widen sleeves, add fullness to a sweater body, or create the sloped sides of a hat. Without increases, your knitting stays the same width from cast-on to bind-off.

Increases happen one stitch at a time, so you control exactly where your fabric expands. A pattern will tell you which row to increase on and how many stitches to add. The method you choose affects how the increase looks — some are nearly invisible, others create a decorative line or hole in the fabric.

The four most common methods are the knit front and back (KFB), the yarn over, the lifted increase, and the make one. Each one works the same way in the end — you finish with one more stitch than you started with — but the steps and the appearance differ.

Key Takeaways

  • An increase adds one new stitch to your needle and is used to widen fabric or shape garments like sleeves and necklines.
  • The knit front and back (KFB) is the easiest method for beginners and creates a small bump on the right side of the fabric.
  • A yarn over creates a deliberate eyelet hole and is often used for lace patterns or decorative shaping.
  • Lifted increases and make ones are nearly invisible and are the best choice when you want shaping that does not show.
  • Your pattern will specify which increase method to use, so check the abbreviations or instructions before you start.

Knit front and back (KFB) — the simplest method

The knit front and back is the easiest increase to learn because it uses only the stitch you already have on your left needle. You knit into the front loop of the stitch as normal, but before you slip it off the needle, you knit into the back loop of the same stitch. You now have two stitches where you had one.

To do a KFB: insert your right needle through the front of the stitch and knit it. Do not slip the stitch off your left needle yet. Insert your right needle through the back of that same stitch (from right to left) and knit it. Now slip the original stitch off your left needle. You have created two stitches.

The KFB leaves a small bump or bar on the right side of your fabric, which some knitters like as a design detail and others want to avoid. If your pattern does not specify which increase to use, KFB is a safe choice for beginners because it requires no extra yarn or complicated hand movements.

Yarn over — creates a visible hole

A yarn over (abbreviated YO) is an increase that deliberately creates a small eyelet or hole in your fabric. It is the increase used in lace knitting and in patterns where you want the shaping to be part of the design. A yarn over adds a stitch by wrapping yarn around your needle without knitting into an existing stitch.

The steps depend on what stitch comes before and after the yarn over. The most common version: knit one stitch, bring your yarn to the front of your work (as if you were about to purl), then knit the next stitch. The loop you created by moving your yarn is the new stitch. On the next row, you knit or purl this loop like any other stitch.

Yarn overs are popular because they are fast and create a decorative effect. If your pattern shows a line of small holes running up your fabric, those are yarn overs. They work well for shaping sleeves in a lace cardigan or for increasing evenly across a hat crown.

Lifted increase — nearly invisible shaping

A lifted increase (sometimes called a bar increase or raised increase) picks up a stitch from the row below and knits it together with the current stitch. This method is nearly invisible on the finished fabric and is the choice when you want shaping that does not draw attention.

To do a lifted increase on the knit side: insert your right needle under the left leg of the stitch one row below the stitch on your left needle. Knit this picked-up loop. Then knit the stitch on your left needle as normal. You now have two stitches. The increase sits flush with the fabric and creates almost no visible line.

Lifted increases take a little more practice than KFB because you have to identify and pick up the correct stitch from the row below. Once you can do it, they are fast and produce professional-looking results. Many patterns for fitted garments use lifted increases on the sides or underarms where you want the shaping to blend in.

Make one — the most invisible option

A make one (abbreviated M1) is an increase that runs a new stitch between two existing stitches. It is the most invisible increase available and is used in patterns where you want no visible trace of the shaping. Make ones require you to pick up the horizontal strand of yarn that runs between two stitches and knit into it.

To do a make one: identify the horizontal strand of yarn between the stitch you just knitted and the next stitch on your left needle. Insert your left needle under this strand from front to back (or back to front, depending on which direction you want the increase to lean). Knit into this new loop. The stitch disappears into the fabric.

Make ones are common in fitted sweaters, especially along raglan seams or at the waist, because they create no visible line. The trade-off is that they take more attention than a KFB — you have to see and pick up the right strand. Most patterns that use make ones will specify the direction (M1L for left-leaning, M1R for right-leaning) to control how the increase sits.

How to read increase abbreviations in patterns

Knitting patterns use short abbreviations to tell you which increase to use. The most common ones are KFB (knit front and back), YO (yarn over), M1 or M1R or M1L (make one), and sometimes inc (increase, which usually means KFB unless the pattern specifies otherwise). Always check the abbreviation key at the start of your pattern.

Some patterns give you a choice — they might say "increase 1 stitch" without specifying the method. In that case, pick an increase that matches the look you want. If the garment is fitted and you want invisible shaping, use a make one or lifted increase. If the pattern is lace or decorative, a yarn over fits the style. If you are unsure, KFB is always acceptable.

Patterns also tell you where to increase — "increase 1 stitch at each end of row" means you add one stitch at the beginning and one at the end, for a total of two new stitches per row. "Increase 1 stitch every other row" means you increase on row 1, skip row 2, increase on row 3, and so on.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is accidentally creating a yarn over when you meant to do a KFB. This happens when you move your yarn to the front of your work between stitches without meaning to. To avoid it, keep your yarn in the back of your work while you are knitting, and only move it when your pattern tells you to.

Another mistake is picking up the wrong strand for a make one. The strand you want is the one that runs horizontally between the stitch you just finished and the next stitch waiting on your left needle. It should be straightforward to see. If you cannot find it, you may have already moved past it — back up and look again.

If you increase on the wrong row or in the wrong place, your shaping will be lopsided. Always count rows and mark your increases with stitch markers or a row counter. If you realize you increased in the wrong spot, it is usually easier to frog back (unravel) a few rows and redo them than to try to fix it later.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use any increase method in any pattern?

Not always. Lace patterns require yarn overs because the holes are part of the design. Fitted garments usually specify make ones or lifted increases to keep shaping invisible. Your pattern will tell you which method to use. If it does not, KFB or make one are safe choices for most situations.

What does it mean when a pattern says M1L or M1R?

M1L means make one left-leaning, and M1R means make one right-leaning. The direction controls which way the new stitch leans. On a raglan seam or fitted edge, using the correct direction makes the shaping look intentional and balanced. Your pattern instructions will show you how to pick up the strand for each direction.

Do I have to increase on the edge of my fabric?

No. You can increase anywhere on your needle — at the edge, in the middle, or scattered across a row. Patterns often increase at the edges for shaping sleeves or necklines, but you can also increase throughout the fabric for lace or textured patterns. Your pattern will tell you where to place each increase.

What if I accidentally skip an increase row?

Your fabric will be narrower than the pattern intended, and the finished garment may not fit. If you notice the mistake right away, you can frog back to the missed increase and redo those rows. If you do not notice until later, you can sometimes pick up a stitch from a previous row and knit it in, but this is tricky. It is easier to prevent the mistake by marking your increase rows with a highlighter or row counter.

Can I use a yarn over to increase in the middle of a row?

Yes, but it will create a visible hole. Yarn overs are often used in the middle of lace patterns for this reason. If you want to increase in the middle of a row without creating a hole, use a make one or lifted increase instead.