Knit and Purl Are the Foundation of All Knitting

Knit and purl are the two basic stitches that make up nearly every knitting pattern you will ever see. Every sweater, scarf, blanket, and hat is built from combinations of these two stitches. Once you can do both smoothly, you can read a pattern and create almost anything—the rest is just learning to combine them in different ways.

The difference between them is straightforward: a knit stitch pulls the yarn through the loop from one direction, and a purl stitch pulls it through from the opposite direction. On the finished fabric, a knit stitch looks like a small V, and a purl stitch looks like a bump or a dash. When you alternate rows of knits and purls, you create the bumpy texture called garter stitch. When you knit one row and purl the next, you get the smooth, flat texture called stockinette stitch.

Key Takeaways

  • A knit stitch inserts the needle from front to back through the loop on your left needle, and a purl stitch inserts it from back to front—this is the only real difference between them.
  • Both stitches follow the same four-step motion: insert, wrap, pull through, and slide off the left needle.
  • Garter stitch (knitting every row) creates a bumpy, reversible fabric; stockinette stitch (alternating knit and purl rows) creates a smooth, flat fabric.
  • Tension—how tightly you hold the yarn—affects how even your stitches look, and it improves with practice over weeks and months.
  • Common beginner mistakes include pulling the yarn too tight, inserting the needle in the wrong spot, and losing track of which end of the needle holds your working stitches.

How to Make a Knit Stitch

Hold your needles so the needle with the loops (your working stitches) is in your left hand, and the empty needle is in your right hand. The yarn should be hanging behind your work, toward the back of the needles. Insert the right needle through the first loop on the left needle from front to back—so the right needle goes in from the left side of the loop and comes out the right side, passing underneath the left needle.

Wrap the yarn around the right needle, going from back to front, so the yarn makes a small loop around the right needle. Pull the right needle backward through the original loop on the left needle, bringing the new loop with it. Slide the old loop off the left needle. You now have one new knit stitch on your right needle. Repeat this motion for every stitch on your left needle until all stitches have moved to the right needle. At the end of the row, swap the needles so the full needle is back in your left hand, and start the next row.

The most common mistake beginners make is pulling the yarn too tight after wrapping it. This makes the new stitch so small it is hard to insert your needle into it on the next row. Wrap the yarn loosely around the needle, and let the stitch sit at a comfortable size on the needle before you pull it through.

How to Make a Purl Stitch

Hold your needles the same way as for a knit stitch, but this time bring the yarn to the front of your work, toward you. Insert the right needle through the first loop on the left needle from back to front—so the right needle goes in from the right side of the loop and comes out the left side, passing in front of the left needle. This is the opposite direction from a knit stitch.

Wrap the yarn around the right needle, going from right to left, so the yarn makes a small loop around the right needle. Pull the right needle backward through the original loop, bringing the new loop with it. Slide the old loop off the left needle. You now have one new purl stitch on your right needle. Repeat for every stitch on the left needle.

The main difference between knit and purl is where the yarn starts (behind the needle for knit, in front for purl) and which direction you insert the needle (front to back for knit, back to front for purl). The wrapping and pulling motion is identical. Many beginners find purl stitches harder to keep even because the yarn is closer to your hands and easier to tighten accidentally. Work slowly and keep the yarn loose.

Understanding Garter Stitch and Stockinette Stitch

Garter stitch is what you get when you knit every single row, never purling. The fabric looks bumpy on both sides and feels thick and spongy. It does not curl at the edges, which makes it useful for scarves, blankets, and edges of garments. Garter stitch is forgiving—mistakes are straightforward to spot and fix, and the fabric is sturdy.

Stockinette stitch is what you get when you alternate: knit one row, purl the next row, knit the next, purl the next, and so on. The knit side (called the right side) looks smooth and flat with small V shapes. The purl side (called the wrong side) looks bumpy. Stockinette stitch is what most sweaters and fitted garments use because it drapes smoothly and looks polished. The downside is that the edges curl inward, so you usually need to add a border of garter stitch or ribbing around the edges to keep them flat.

Most patterns will tell you which stitch to use and when to switch. If a pattern says "knit in stockinette stitch for 6 inches," that means alternate knit and purl rows until your piece measures 6 inches from the cast-on edge.

How Tension Affects Your Stitches

Tension is how tightly or loosely you hold the yarn as you knit. Tight tension makes small, dense stitches; loose tension makes large, floppy stitches. Uneven tension—where some stitches are tight and others are loose—makes your fabric look lumpy and unprofessional, even if the stitches themselves are correct.

Most beginners knit too tightly because they are concentrating hard and unconsciously squeeze the yarn. The solution is to knit slowly and notice where you hold the yarn. Many knitters hold the yarn in their right hand (if they are right-handed) and let it flow through their fingers without gripping it. Others hold it in their left hand. Experiment to find what feels natural, and practice keeping the same amount of tension throughout a row.

Your tension will improve over weeks and months of practice. Do not expect perfect, even stitches right away. Knit a few practice rows, then start over and notice how much smoother the second attempt looks. This is normal and expected.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

The most frequent beginner errors are pulling the yarn too tight (making stitches hard to work into), inserting the needle in the wrong spot (creating twisted or misaligned stitches), and accidentally dropping stitches off the needle. If you drop a stitch, stop when ready and pick it back up with your needle before moving on. A dropped stitch will unravel down several rows if you do not catch it.

Another common mistake is losing track of which needle holds your working stitches. Always keep the needle with loops in your left hand at the start of a row. If you accidentally start knitting into the needle that should be empty, you will create a twisted mess. Pause and swap the needles back to the correct position.

If your edges look messy or uneven, you are likely inserting the needle too loosely into the first stitch of each row. Try inserting the needle all the way through the stitch before wrapping the yarn, so the needle is firmly seated in the loop. This creates a neater edge.

Practicing Knit and Purl Together

Start by casting on 20 to 30 stitches using the long-tail cast-on or another method you are comfortable with. Knit the first row, then purl the second row. Repeat this pattern for at least 10 rows. You should see the smooth, flat texture of stockinette stitch developing. Count your stitches at the end of each row to make sure you still have 20 to 30—if the number changes, you are accidentally creating or losing stitches.

Once stockinette feels comfortable, try garter stitch: knit every row for 10 rows. Notice how different the texture is. Then try a straightforward pattern like alternating 4 rows of knit with 4 rows of purl. This helps you see how the two stitches combine to create different textures and prepares you to read real patterns.

Keep your practice swatch and save it. In a few months, you will be amazed at how much more even and polished your stitches have become.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between knit and purl?

A knit stitch inserts the needle from front to back through the loop, while a purl stitch inserts it from back to front. On finished fabric, a knit looks like a small V and a purl looks like a bump. The wrapping and pulling motion is identical—only the insertion direction changes.

Why do my stitches look uneven?

Uneven tension is the most common cause. You are likely pulling the yarn too tightly after wrapping it, or holding it too firmly as you work. Try loosening your grip and knitting more slowly. Uneven stitches also improve naturally as you practice over several weeks.

What should I do if I drop a stitch?

Stop when ready and pick the stitch back up with your needle before continuing. If you do not catch it right away, the stitch will unravel down several rows and create a run in your fabric. If this happens, you can use a crochet hook to pull the stitch back up row by row, or unravel back to the dropped stitch and start again.

How do I know which row I am on?

Count the rows from your cast-on edge, or use a row counter—a small tool that clips onto your needle and lets you click off each row. Many knitters also place a stitch marker (a small ring) every 10 rows to make counting easier. Some patterns tell you to count rows by looking at the texture, since garter stitch and stockinette stitch look different.

Can I fix a mistake from several rows back?

Yes, but it takes practice. You can unravel your work back to the mistake and start again, or use a crochet hook to pull the stitch back up row by row. For now, if a mistake is more than one or two rows back and does not affect the overall look, it is fine to leave it and keep going. As you gain experience, fixing mistakes becomes easier.