What Double Knit Is and Why You'd Make It

Double knit is a reversible fabric that looks the same on both sides—no wrong side to hide. You create it by working two layers of knit stitches at once on a single pair of needles, switching colors every row to build a pattern that appears on the front and a mirror image on the back. The result is a thick, stable fabric that works well for scarves, blankets, and garments where both sides show.

The technique uses two colors of yarn held together throughout. You knit with one color, then purl with the other color in the same row, which creates the two-layer effect. The finished fabric is roughly twice as thick as single-layer knitting and naturally lies flat without curling at the edges.

Key Takeaways

  • Double knit requires two colors of yarn held together and worked alternately—knit stitches in one color, purl stitches in the other, in the same row.
  • You work on a single pair of needles but create two layers that are connected at the edges, making the fabric reversible.
  • Cast on using both colors together, then separate them and work the pattern row by row, switching which color you knit and which you purl.
  • The most common mistake is dropping one color or letting the yarns twist around each other, which weakens the connection between layers.
  • Finished double knit fabric is thick and stable, making it ideal for scarves, blankets, and items where durability matters.

Casting On with Two Colors

Start by holding both yarn colors together as if they were one strand. Use a long-tail cast-on or cable cast-on—both work equally well. The key is to treat the two yarns as a single unit during the cast-on process. Cast on the number of stitches your pattern calls for. If you're experimenting without a pattern, cast on an even number between 20 and 40 stitches.

Once you've cast on, separate the two colors. Designate one color as your "knit color" and the other as your "purl color" for the first row. You'll alternate which color plays which role on alternating rows. Some knitters find it helpful to tie a small loop of contrasting thread around the knit color yarn to keep track of which is which, especially when learning.

Working the First Row: Knit and Purl Alternately

On Row 1, you'll knit one stitch with your knit color, then purl one stitch with your purl color, repeating this pattern across the entire row. The order matters: knit first, then purl. Keep both yarns on the same side of the needles as you work—don't move them back and forth as you would in regular two-color knitting.

When you knit a stitch with the first color, the yarn stays in back. When you switch to the purl color, bring that yarn to the front, purl the stitch, then take it back to the front again for the next purl stitch. The two yarns should sit side by side, not twisted around each other. If they twist, the layers won't connect properly and the fabric will separate.

Work slowly through the first row. This row establishes the rhythm, and once you complete it, the pattern becomes automatic. Count your stitches at the end of Row 1 to make sure you didn't accidentally drop anything.

Switching Colors on Alternating Rows

On Row 2, reverse the colors: purl with what was your knit color, and knit with what was your purl color. This reversal is what creates the mirror-image pattern on the back. The two layers stay connected because the stitches interlock at the edges where the colors meet.

Continue this pattern: odd rows use one color order (knit, purl, knit, purl), even rows use the opposite order (purl, knit, purl, knit). After every two rows, you've completed one full cycle. The fabric will begin to show its reversible nature around Row 6 or 8, when you can see the pattern forming on both sides.

Keep the tension consistent on both colors. If one color is much tighter than the other, the fabric will pull unevenly and look lopsided. Aim for the same tension you'd use in regular stockinette stitch.

Avoiding Common Mistakes

The most frequent error is letting the two yarns twist around each other. This happens when you cross one yarn over the other without meaning to. Check after every few rows by looking at the edge stitches—the two colors should run parallel, not spiral. If they've twisted, you can usually unravel back to where the twist started and redo those rows.

Another common problem is accidentally dropping one of the two colors mid-row. This creates a hole or a single-layer section. To prevent this, keep both yarns in your hand at all times, even when you're not actively using one. Some knitters hold one color in each hand (one in the right hand, one in the left) to make the color switch automatic.

Tension inconsistency is also straightforward to spot in double knit because the two layers show any unevenness when ready. If your first few rows look loose or uneven, don't worry—this is normal while you're learning the rhythm. By Row 10 or so, most knitters find their pace and the tension evens out.

Binding Off Double Knit

Bind off using both colors together, treating them as a single strand. Work a standard bind-off: knit two stitches, pass the first over the second, knit one more, pass the previous stitch over it, and repeat across the row. Because you have two layers, the bind-off edge will be thicker than a regular edge, but it will still be flexible enough to wear comfortably.

Some knitters prefer a suspended bind-off or a stretchy bind-off for double knit, since the fabric is already thick and a tight bind-off can make the edge uncomfortable. Experiment with whichever method you're comfortable with—the fabric's reversibility means the bind-off looks good from either side.

Finishing and Blocking Your Double Knit

Double knit fabric benefits from blocking because it helps even out the tension and sets the stitches. Wet-block by soaking the finished piece in cool water with a gentle wool wash for 15 to 20 minutes, then squeeze out excess water gently. Lay it flat on a towel to dry, shaping it to the dimensions you want. This process takes 24 to 48 hours depending on the yarn weight and room humidity.

Once dry, your double knit piece will be stable and flat. The reversible nature means you can wear a scarf either way, flip a blanket to change its appearance, or display a wall hanging with either side facing out. The fabric won't curl at the edges and will hold its shape through many washes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to use two different colors?

No. You can use the same color for both layers, though you won't see the reversible pattern effect. Using two colors makes the reversibility visible and is more visually interesting, but single-color double knit is perfectly valid if you want a thick, stable fabric without the color play.

What yarn weight works best for double knit?

Worsted weight and bulky weight are easiest to work with because the stitches are large enough to see clearly. Fingering weight is possible but requires more patience and attention to tension. Avoid very slippery yarns like silk or rayon when learning, since they make it harder to keep the two colors from twisting.

Can I use double knit for a fitted garment like a sweater?

Double knit is too thick for most fitted garments because the fabric doesn't drape well and the seams become bulky. It works best for items where thickness is an advantage: scarves, blankets, bags, and wall hangings. If you want a reversible sweater, consider using double knit only for the cuffs or collar.

How do I fix a dropped stitch in double knit?

Dropped stitches in double knit are trickier than in single-layer knitting because you have two layers to pick up. Use a crochet hook to pick up both loops—one from each layer—and work them back up the rows. If you're unsure, it's often faster to unravel back to the dropped stitch and redo those rows.

Why are my two layers separating?

Separation usually means the two yarns twisted around each other during knitting, breaking the connection between layers. Check your edges: if the colors spiral instead of running parallel, that's the cause. Prevent this by keeping both yarns in your hand at all times and being deliberate about which yarn you pick up for each stitch.