What an I-Cord Edge Is and Why You'd Use One
An i-cord edge is a small, rounded tube of knitting that you attach to the edge of a finished piece—usually a blanket, scarf, or garment. Instead of binding off with a flat edge, you create this cord and graft or bind it to the perimeter, giving the piece a polished, professional finish that won't curl or unravel.
The cord itself is made on two or three needles and looks like a tiny rope. Because it's tubular and has no flat sides, it sits smoothly against the edge of your work and moves with the fabric instead of pulling it. Many knitters use i-cord edges on baby blankets, shawls, and sweater necklines because the finish is both durable and visually clean.
Key Takeaways
- An i-cord edge is a small tube of knitting attached to the perimeter of a finished piece, creating a rounded, professional-looking border.
- You knit the cord on two or three needles using a straightforward repeating stitch, then attach it to your main piece by grafting or binding off together.
- The most common method is to pick up stitches along the edge, knit the cord, and graft the live stitches to the starting point to close the loop.
- An i-cord edge works best on pieces with a clear edge to pick up from, such as stockinette stitch or garter stitch borders.
Picking Up Stitches for the I-Cord
Before you knit the cord itself, you need to pick up stitches along the edge of your finished piece. The number of stitches you pick up determines how many stitches you'll knit with for the cord. A typical i-cord uses 3 to 5 stitches; most commonly, people use 3 or 4.
Using a needle one or two sizes smaller than your main needles, pick up one stitch in each row along the edge you want to border. If your edge is a cast-on or bind-off row, pick up one stitch in each stitch across. Work along the entire perimeter—all four sides if you're edging a blanket, or just the neckline if you're edging a sweater neck. When you reach the end, you'll have a long loop of live stitches ready for the cord.
If you're working on a curved edge, such as an armhole or neckline, you may need to pick up slightly fewer stitches in some areas to keep the edge from puckering. A general rule is to pick up about 3 stitches for every 4 rows on a vertical edge.
Knitting the I-Cord Itself
Once your stitches are picked up, you're ready to knit the cord. The most straightforward method uses a straightforward knit stitch repeated in a circle. With your picked-up stitches on the needle, cast on 2 or 3 new stitches at the beginning of the row using the cable cast-on or backward loop method. These new stitches will form the "tail" of the cord that you'll graft closed at the end.
Now knit every row in stockinette stitch (knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side) or garter stitch (knit every row). The cord will naturally curl into a tube as you work. Keep knitting in this pattern until you've worked all the way around your piece and are back where you started. You should have a continuous tube of knitting running along the entire edge.
The cord will feel loose and floppy at first—this is normal. It tightens up once you graft the end closed and block the piece. If your cord looks too loose or too tight as you work, you can adjust by going up or down a needle size on your next project.
Grafting the Cord Closed
When you've knitted all the way around and returned to your starting point, you'll have live stitches on your needle and the cast-on tail you created at the beginning. To close the cord into a seamless loop, you'll use Kitchener stitch (also called grafting) to join the two ends together.
Thread the tail of your yarn onto a tapestry needle. Arrange the stitches so that the live stitches on your knitting needle are facing you, and the cast-on tail is below them. Following the Kitchener stitch pattern—going through the front stitch knitwise, then the back stitch purlwise, then back through the front stitch purlwise, then the back stitch knitwise—draw the yarn through each stitch in sequence. As you work, the stitches will disappear into the cord and the seam will become invisible.
Once you've grafted all the stitches, pull the yarn snug and weave in the end. The cord is now a complete loop around your piece.
Binding Off the I-Cord to the Main Piece
An alternative to grafting is to bind off the cord stitches together with the picked-up stitches in a single row. This method is faster but creates a slightly visible seam, so it's best used on edges where a small line won't be noticeable.
On your final row of cord knitting, instead of grafting, hold the needle with your live cord stitches in your left hand and the needle with your original picked-up stitches in your right hand. Knit one stitch from each needle together, then pass the first stitch over the second to bind off. Repeat across until all stitches are bound off. Cut the yarn and pull it through the last stitch to find.
This method works well if you're short on time or if your piece will be worn in a way that hides the edge—for example, the inside of a garment or the underside of a blanket.
Blocking and Finishing the Edge
After you've grafted or bound off the cord, wet-block your piece to even out the stitches and help the cord settle into its final shape. Soak the piece in cool water with a gentle wool wash for 15 to 20 minutes, then gently squeeze out the water without wringing. Lay it flat on a blocking mat or clean towel, smooth the cord edge so it lies evenly, and let it dry completely.
Blocking is especially important for i-cord edges because it relaxes the tension and makes the cord look more polished. The cord will also become slightly firmer and more defined as it dries, so don't be alarmed if it looks a bit loose while wet.
Once dry, weave in any remaining yarn ends with a tapestry needle. Your i-cord edge is now complete and ready to wear or gift.
Troubleshooting Common I-Cord Edge Problems
If your cord looks twisted or uneven, you may have accidentally twisted the stitches when picking them up. Check that all stitches are facing the same direction before you begin knitting. If the cord is too loose, try using a needle one size smaller for the next project, or knit tighter by pulling the yarn snug after each stitch.
If the cord pulls the edge of your piece inward or creates puckers, you picked up too many stitches. On your next project, reduce the number of picked-up stitches slightly, or space them out more evenly along curved edges. If the cord gaps away from the edge, you picked up too few stitches—increase the count next time.
If grafting feels overwhelming, binding off is a perfectly acceptable alternative. The seam will be visible, but it's a clean finish and much faster to execute. Many experienced knitters use binding off on everyday pieces and save grafting for show pieces.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I add an i-cord edge to a piece I've already finished and bound off?
Yes. Pick up stitches along the bound-off edge just as you would on a live edge, then knit and graft the cord as normal. The cord will cover the original bind-off and give the piece a fresh look. This is a common way to rescue a piece with a bind-off you're not happy with.
How many stitches should I cast on for the i-cord?
Most i-cords use 3 to 5 stitches. Three stitches creates a thin, delicate cord; 4 or 5 stitches creates a thicker, more substantial border. Start with 4 stitches if you're unsure, and adjust on future projects based on how the cord looks.
What if I run out of yarn before I finish the cord?
Join a new ball of yarn using a weaver's knot or by tying the ends together, then continue knitting. When you graft the cord closed, the join will be hidden inside the seam. If you're worried about the join splitting, you can also bind off early and graft what you have, then pick up stitches again and knit a second cord to complete the edge.
Do I have to use Kitchener stitch to close the cord?
No. Binding off the cord stitches together with the picked-up stitches is faster and creates a visible but clean seam. Grafting is invisible but takes more time and practice. Choose whichever method fits your skill level and the look you want.
Can I knit an i-cord edge on a curved edge like an armhole?
Yes, but you'll need to pick up stitches carefully to avoid puckers. Pick up slightly fewer stitches in the curved sections and space them evenly. You may also need to decrease a few stitches as you knit the cord to help it lie flat around the curve. Test on a swatch first if you're new to curved i-cord edges.