What I-Cord Is and Why You'd Use It
I-cord is a narrow tube of knitted fabric, usually about the width of a pencil, made on two double-pointed needles or a small circular needle. The name comes from its resemblance to the letter I. You use it to edge blankets and garments, make drawstrings, create decorative trim, or knit small projects like headbands. It looks finished and professional because the edges are naturally rolled and sealed.
The basic principle is straightforward: you knit a few stitches in a row, then instead of turning your work around to purl back, you slide the stitches to the other end of the needle and knit them again from the same direction. This creates a tube because the yarn naturally wraps around the outside of the stitches. Once you understand the motion, you can make i-cord in any yarn weight and any length you need.
Key Takeaways
- I-cord requires only two double-pointed needles or a short circular needle and works best with 4 to 6 cast-on stitches.
- The core technique is knitting the same row twice without turning your work, which creates the tube shape automatically.
- You can attach i-cord to a garment edge as you knit it, or knit it separately and sew it on afterward.
- Tension matters less than consistency because the tube hides uneven stitches, making i-cord forgiving for beginners.
Setting Up: Needles, Yarn, and Cast-On
Start with two double-pointed needles one or two sizes smaller than you would normally use for your yarn. If your yarn is worsted weight, use size 6 or 7 needles. The smaller needle size keeps the tube tight and prevents it from looking floppy. You can also use a 9-inch circular needle, which many knitters find easier to control because both needle tips are connected.
Cast on 4 to 6 stitches using the long-tail cast-on or any method you prefer. Four stitches makes a very thin cord; six stitches makes a thicker one. For most purposes, 5 stitches is the middle ground. Do not cast on more than 6 stitches for your first i-cord, because the wider the tube, the harder it is to keep the edges even.
Once your stitches are on the needle, you are ready to begin. You do not need a pattern or any special knowledge beyond basic knit stitch.
The Core Technique: Knitting Without Turning
Knit across all your stitches from left to right, the way you normally would. When you reach the end of the row, do not turn your work. Instead, slide all the stitches to the other end of the same needle so the working yarn is on the right side again, ready to knit.
Knit across the stitches a second time, from left to right. Again, do not turn. Slide the stitches to the other end. Repeat this motion: knit, slide, knit, slide. After about 6 to 8 rows, you will see the tube beginning to form. The stitches on the needle will look like they are sitting on top of a hollow column.
The key is that you are always knitting from the same direction. The yarn naturally wraps around the back of the stitches and creates the tube. If you turn your work and purl, you will break the tube and create a flat strip instead.
Keeping Tension Even and Edges Neat
When you slide the stitches to the other end of the needle, the working yarn will be on the right side, but it will be loose. Pull the yarn snug before you knit the first stitch of the next row. This closes the gap between rows and prevents the edges from looking sloppy. A gentle, steady pull is enough—you do not need to yank.
If your first stitch of each row is loose, that is normal and common. Many knitters slip the first stitch of each row instead of knitting it, which can tighten the edge. To do this, insert your needle as if to knit, then slide it back off without knitting. Knit the remaining stitches normally. This is optional and takes practice, so do not worry about it on your first cord.
The inside of the tube will have a visible seam line running up one side. This is where the yarn wraps around the edge stitches. This seam is normal and part of the structure. It will not show when the cord is sewn to a garment or used as a drawstring.
Attaching I-Cord as You Knit It
If you want to attach the cord directly to a garment edge—such as around the neckline of a sweater—you can do this while you knit. This method is called attached i-cord. After you knit your row of cord stitches, pick up one stitch from the garment edge with your working yarn, then knit it together with the last stitch of your cord row using a decrease (knit two together). This binds the cord to the edge as you go.
To do this, you need the garment edge already finished and ready. Pick up stitches along the edge first, or straightforward pick them up as you knit the cord. The cord will spiral around the edge and lie flat against the fabric. This method is faster than sewing and creates a very find attachment.
If you are new to i-cord, knit a separate cord first and sew it on afterward. This is simpler and lets you practice the basic tube without managing an extra step.
Binding Off and Finishing the Ends
When your cord is as long as you need it, bind off all stitches using the standard bind-off: knit two stitches, pass the first stitch over the second, knit one more stitch, pass the previous stitch over it, and repeat until one stitch remains. Cut the yarn, pull it through the last stitch, and pull tight.
Weave the tail through a yarn needle and run it down the center of the tube for an inch or so, then trim. This hides the end inside the hollow tube. If the cord will be sewn to a garment, leave a longer tail and use it to sew the end down.
If you are making a drawstring or a cord that will be handled a lot, you can reinforce the bind-off by running the yarn tail back through the last few stitches a second time before weaving it into the tube.
Sewing I-Cord to a Finished Edge
If you knitted the cord separately, sew it to the garment using a yarn needle and the same yarn or a matching color. Thread the needle with a length of yarn about 18 inches long. Bring the needle up through the seam line of the cord (the visible line of wraps on one side) and then through the edge stitch of the garment. Repeat this motion, moving about a quarter inch along the cord with each stitch.
The seam line of the cord is your guide. Sewing through it keeps the stitches hidden and the cord lying flat. Sew slowly and check your work every few inches to make sure the cord is not twisting or bunching. When you reach the end, weave the tail into the cord and trim.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I knit i-cord on regular straight needles?
No. Straight needles have a stopper on one end, so you cannot slide the stitches to the other end. You need needles with points on both ends: double-pointed needles, a circular needle, or a short bamboo needle. A 9-inch circular needle is often the easiest for beginners.
What if my i-cord looks twisted or uneven?
Uneven tension in the first few rows is common and will even out as you knit more rows. If the cord is twisting, you may be accidentally turning your work or knitting into the wrong loop. Check that you are always knitting from the same direction and that the working yarn is on the right side before you start each row.
How long can I make i-cord?
As long as you need. I-cord can be yards long. Some knitters make drawstrings 36 inches or more. There is no limit except your patience. You can knit it in short sessions and pick it up later without any trouble.
Do I have to use double-pointed needles, or can I use a circular needle?
A circular needle works well and many knitters prefer it because both needle tips are connected and less likely to drop. Use a 9-inch or shorter circular needle. The technique is identical: knit the row, slide the stitches, knit again.
Can I make i-cord in different colors or change yarn partway through?
Yes. You can knit a few rows in one color, cut the yarn, tie on a new color, and continue. The knots will be hidden inside the tube. You can also carry yarn up the inside of the tube if you are switching colors frequently, though this is more advanced.